Troops are heavy on the ground, yet there is little left to defend. Buildings lie in charred ruins along the main shopping street, a now dangerous no-mans land between Muslim and Christian neighbours. The violence has left tens of thousands hardened and homeless. They live in sectarian sectors of the city under tarpaulin unable to return to the ruins of their homes. Ambon’s tragedy is baffling. Muslim leader Jusef Ely blames shadowy forces, perhaps rogue military officers, gangsters, even politicians in Jakarta for exploiting religious tensions. “Catch all the provocateurs, bring them to court and give them hard punishments,” is his solution. But so far community leaders have done nothing to solve their conflict. On the Christian side of Ambon, youths known as ‘chok-ai’ or “cool boys” admit to being a major force in the violence. Yet their priest defends them. “They are part of the congregation…they never attack first”. Indonesian troops are on a mission to seize the warring factions’ weapons. Yet the determined warriors merely bury the weapons until the soldiers leave. Ambon’s fighters and fanatics appear locked in a conflict that threatens to engulf yet more of its neighbouring islands.

Produced by ABC Australia