It is Friday, the Muslim day of rest. This is the Saudi Arabian desert, where the camels roam as they have done for centuries.
Camel herders congregate around the outskirts of the big deserts, which cover most of the Arabian peninsular.
But civilisation isn't far away. High-voltage lines supply the major cities with electricity. American cars race by on the motorway. Mobile phones are all the rage. But freshly-milked camel's milk tastes exactly as it did at the time of the prophet Muhammad.
Friday is the day when Saudi Arabian families return to the longed-for nomadic lifestyle of the desert.
"The camel and the tent we like it too much"
The ancient serenity returns - for a while at least. Here, in the Thumamah desert, the exuberant youth burn off gallons of petrol in their four-wheel-drive cars, just for fun. The desert calls, but the desert must also be conquered. Modern ways win over old traditions.
At the beginning the king had his first opposition with television. When schools for women were introduced there was opposition. But people came to realise that really these things do not really contradict Islam and they are not against religion, because religion can fit modern life very easily. You can become religious and stay a religious person, and at the same time you can watch television and use a mobile and drive around in a car, and it really has nothing to do with religion.
Hedaithy has researched contemporary society's influence on Islam. His research centre comes under the Ministry for Islamic Affairs. He gives the government line.
The changes will happen but they need time. And the Government really understands the need, it realises that there is need for more room for freedom, and they are giving it slowly.
Saudi Arabia is a conservative country governed by religion, but oil money has brought the country development. It all-too-evident in the American cars and European architecture. This puts pressure on the old traditions. Part of the population is pressing ahead whilst the absolute monarchy holds back.
We don’t have to have western style democracy, because we don’t need it. We can have a government that represents the people and can really lead the society very nicely without having elections and things like that. We have the argument that elections also don’t always bring the best government. That’s obvious isn’t it?
Q – But then that’s the responsibility of the people
It is, but most of the people really don’t know how to choose, that is the problem.
Others think differently. And Saudi Arabia tolerates different opinions as long as they are expressed in a law-abiding fashion.
Q -If you want to keep tradition and religion the way they have always been, then we should not accept modernity, we should not come into the globalised world?
This is very wrong. Islam is a progressive religion. I mean the Muslims were the torch bearers of light, and they were responsible for the renaissance in many ways they were the discoverers, and as long as there is logical reason, I don’t think so, these are ignorant and petty minded people, because only an ignorant mind would be against telephones and televisions. Remember telephones come from the time of King Abdel Aziz, who united the country. And as progress happened, there are people who want the wheel, those who don’t want the wheel of progress, and some want the wheel to go back. There is no way the Saudis from all walks of life would now like the wheel to go back.
If anyone does, then Khaled Al-Maeena represents the new ideas which - within the political boundaries of an absolute monarchy - could lead to a new era.
We need reforms. We need to re-evaluate our present situation. Not because of September 11th, not because Colin Powell wants us to do something, or Mr Bus. No we need reforms because the Saudi Arabia of today is not the Saudi Arabia of fifty years ago, and the Saudi Arabia of the next 25 years being a part of the globalisation period, of being a part of the world economy, of being a part of the new technology that is changing the face of the earth will be a different one. You’d be surprised to discover what people will do to get their viewpoints across in this country there are meetings there are the ‘’ the people come and talk, there is an informal place where people come together. The Newspapers in this country have been very vocal in expressing the viewpoints of the people. I was very sceptical when the consultative council came a few years ago, and now when you look at the different parties that are there, in the sense of different modes of thought of the people, I am very pleased


Saudi Arabia's new version of western democracy is called the Majlis al-Shura, the Consultative Council, housed in these luxurious buildings.
The authorities proudly show us the Shura – these are the first western TV pictures to be filmed during session.
The king heads the government and appoints the ministers and all members of the Shura. The Shura puts forward proposals and debates new laws in co-operation with the king’s government.
Between the two organisations they will try to come to a consensus, where they will come to a final solution and if that consensus prevails, then be it. The law will go to the King where it is signed into law.
Q – And the King will always agree to sign?
For agreement – where they agree. But there is disagreement between the Government and the Majlis, then the King will eventually step and be the judge between the Government and the Majlis-al-Shura.
The Shura consists of 90 of the wisest men in the country. They have been chosen because they represent the best in their field. There are no women as yet, but preparations have been made for an expansion of the Shura. Some of the new members could be women, but the king would only take this step when Saudi society demands it.
Q -This system is based on having a good king. What will happen if one day in the future you have a bad king?
We always have good kings – I have to say that!
Q – The King is choosing who is going to be in the government, but he also chooses who is going to be in the Majlis-al-Shura. Does this mean he will be surrounded by friends?
I must say that all the ‘Saudis’ consider themselves friends to the king, but that doesn’t mean that friends always agree.
Q - How do you see yourself in this system? Are you a consultant or are you a politician?
Well, I don’t see myself as either a consultant or a politician. I see myself as a citizen, and hopefully a good citizen.


The democratic institutions are there. The only thing missing is democracy.With time comes wisdom.Democracy will emerge when it is possible without social upheaval. Or as a publisher in Jeddah puts it:
Reform is achieving more and more democracy, more and more public participation. It is a process which should be my dialogue. Not my force, not my violence, not my revolt, not my disobedience. We need the stability here. I think we are moving towards a type of democracy her that takes into consideration all the ethnic, social structure of the country and we might have to be more quick, but we are moving ahead.

Prince Nawaf bin Abdul-Aziz is a member of the government and of the royal family. He is also Head of the Intelligence Service. He too listens to reformist proposals.
Q – Do you listen to the people who want reforms?
Some people ask about ‘do you have elections?’ ‘You have something but we think we did it, but we are doing it in a different way - what we believe has to exist now.’ Nobody is punished because he asked for his idea. Tell me anyone who said ‘I want an election in Saudi Arabia’, and has been punished. That doesn’t mean we have to follow what he says. But: if he says it as his idea, and he doesn’t [inaudible] any terrorist, we are willing to discuss we are willing to do, What we are willing is for the interest, and what we believe is that we represent the interest of Saudi Arabia. Except, if he tried to make trouble in the security of the country.
But to find a Saudi who seriously demands democracy, you have to look outside the country's borders. Dissident Mohammed Al-Massari fled to London ten years ago and continues his fight against the Saudi royal family.
Q -What do you want in Saudi Arabia? Do you want democracy and human rights Western style?
No, definitely not western style. We are an Islamist country, it’s not going to work, people are not going to…
Q – Islamic democracy – what is that?
Whatever you call it. It is a government that is elected from top to bottom. From the head of state downwards. Elected and accountable. According to the tenets of Islam.
Q -Like in the West?
Essentially a system like the west – general suffrage, men and women can elect, men and women can be elected, but there will be a number of Islamic principles in an Islamic state. It will not be a secular democratic state.
London is also home to another sharp critic of Saudi Arabia’s political system: The editor of Al-quds al-Arabi.
They should actually introduce more reforms, they should put an end to the corruption that is phenomenal in that part of the world. They should enlarge the base of power, They should actually give the people more share in power an in the decision making. They cannot actually apply the same thing to…
Q – Women too?
Definitely, they should women their role in society. And its really a shame that in a country like Saudi Arabia women play a really insignificant role, while countries like Iran, countries like the Arab Emirates, all these surrounding countries are giving women a very big role, or at least a reasonable role, so Saudi Arabia has to change.
Back in Saudi Arabia, the charming ancient port of Jeddah has not been bulldozed and replaced by concrete and glass. Here the locals still shop in bazaars, even if giant shopping centres are springing up in the suburbs. The atmosphere is different here - more relaxed - far from the bureaucrats and princes in the capital. Young people walk hand in hand when they think no one is watching them. And not all women wear a veil.
Dating would never [inaudible] here, you won’t see it happening in the same sense as it happens in the ‘States or in Europe.
Q - But it does happen?
We’re taking what suits us, and we’re refusing what we don’t like, what doesn’t suit me, what doesn’t fit my traditions and my cultural values. For example I might go out to dinner with a guy, but I wouldn’t never have him walk me out from my door and kiss me goodnight. That is unheard of completely. IU would never hit the sack with him, and hit the sheets with him on the second or third date, I would wait until he proposes officially to my family.
So says a business woman, who has lived in the US but prefers life in her own country. But the young women would prefer to see women make more advances in society.
I think I need to have a louder voice as a Saudi woman in my society. I need to have an organisation for women, just to talk about their rights. Not to drive or… These things are very important, but they are not necessities of any society. Any country in the world, in Paris or London you see people driving, it’s not really the way, and you would not lock them in their homes just because we can drive…
Q - Would you like to see more women in the Majlis-al –Shura?
Yes, this is amazing. I would love to see a minister. And I would love to have more jobs.
If they have women, then at least our problems will be there, people will hear what we have to say..
Yes as a Saudi woman she would really take you seriously…
Yes I want them to hear what we have to say. They take us for granted sometimes, because we are voicing our problems through our male relatives but its not like that, now we need to be heard.
Q- Looking at you, you look very western dressed. How do you look when you walk in the street?
We wear our Habiyas -like the cloaks. Its traditional actually.
Q -So you cover your face?
No, we don’t. Because a hejab is not in covering your face or not. They have different opinions. It’s up to you – you want to cover your face, you don’t want to cover your face, it’s up to you. No-one is forcing you…
Q - What’s the difference?
Its more like a religion. If you wear something like that its more like traditional. If I do it more closely to cover my hair completely its religious. Some people believe to be more religious and more pious you have to cover..
It trying to be closer to God – so you cover more
But it is still a man's world here, dominated by traders and businessmen. Many businessmen are so rich and influential that they get involved in the development of society.
To develop a more modern educational system based on the needs of the work place, to be market driven. To develop a more efficient legal system, based on the same foundation as it is based on, but I’m looking at it from a more administrative point of view. To develop a more open economic system. We have a free economic system, but we want it to open up to the forces of the international community. These three areas, if done, would really take Saudi Arabia into a further Quantum leap.
Yassin Kadi is also a businessman who has come far. Some would say too far. The Americans have frozen his assets in all American and British banks, since he is under suspicion of having given Osama bin Laden's Al-Quaida network millions of dollars.
I never gave Bin Laden’ organisation not even one cent. Its very simply that we completely differ with him after the Russian War
Q – Did you support the fighting against the Russians?
If you mean again donatings to the Afghani people in the old days when they needed to dig wells or make hospitals or build schools, then yes. But this is an area where it was a noble cause, and everyone was with the Afghanis. I that period, yes we did.
Q – There were many Saudi Arabians and other Muslims joining the fight in Bosnia, for example. Did you support them?
Let me ask you this. Is that terrorism? Going to fight with the Bosnians when they are being smashed, their women are being raped, they were being killed, children. We saw all that on the picture. If someone goes to help there, is this a terrorist act?


Here in Jeddah lies the Bin Laden family headquarters. It is not easy to get anyone to talk here. Osama, the black sheep of the family, has few supporters.
There are supporters of fanatics all over. There are still supporters of Hitler even today. I will not take these guys seriously. I will monitor them, and not allow them to have any serious effect on the society. But I will never consider them to be a majority, nor, even, a silent minority.
I believe terrorism has no religion. A terrorist is a terrorist, be he Asian or African or Anglo-Saxon or American. He represents himself, or the party he believes in, or the philosophy, evil, or something nasty. But to say that because some of the people in the plane that crashed into the WTC were from here means there should be a blanket judgement on Saudi Arabia. Because collective guilt finished a long time ago. And I think that this has upset many Saudis, many ordinary Saudis, to be thought of as terrorists.
Others agree support for bin Laden is not confined to Saudi Arabia.
Maybe there is some support for Osama Bin Laden. But this support is coming from the grievance America is afflicting on the Arabs and Muslims.
Osama thought because these regimes are, especially the Saudi regime, it has been established for a century now, these regimes have some kind of traditional acceptance of the regime, they are born into the regime, they live in the regime, they think it is kind of impossible to change the regime
Q -So if the people don’t want to change the regime…?
No, they do want to change, but they think it is impossible. Maybe Osama analysed, if I attack America, and go to a face to face battle and win some points, maybe this will mobilise the masses to move more.
We cannot say the man is definitely targeting the King. If he wanted to be the King then he could send a plane into the King’s Palace in Jeddah, but he targeted the United States. So the people that are saying he wants to be a future king are misleading everyone. Its completely unrealistic.
Q -What would happen now, if the Americans caught him – would you want him back?
To Arabia? No. no, no. If the Americans caught him, the Americans would have to take him to what the President says is justice.
It is not Saudi Arabia that produced radical people. I believe it is the American foreign policy that is putting everyone in the Arab world, and the Muslim world in a dilemma.
The Saudis and the Americans have had a close relationship ever since the gulf war. There are US soldiers in Saudi Arabia as well as American investors and specialists - especially in the oil industry. Many Saudis have studied in the US. But there is anger over Americas continued support for Israel. Many see the ‘war on terror’ as one sided.
We don’t understand at all, and don’t respect, the position of the American Administration. And this I say whole-hearted. You can never explain to me justifiably why America takes the stance it does. They talk of religious fanaticism, but I can think of nothing more religiously fanatic than the American Administration’s position, religiously based, to support Israel. Because the far-right of the Republican Party has kidnapped the foreign policy based on the biblical right of the Israelis to live in Palestine.
Let me tell you something. The New World Order is a world disorder at the moment. This is what’s happening. And I believe that otherwise the politicians in America should review their policies.
The world, and not least Saudi Arabia, changed on September 11. Saudi Arabians became keen to show the world that they live in an ordinary country with a deeply religious, but otherwise ordinary population, not a country which produces religious fanatics and terrorists.
Am I a happy Saudi? Yes I’m a happy Saudi. But can I be a happier Saudi? Yes I can be a happier Saudi.