Tibet Chinas New Railroad
A 21 minute news feature Suggested Link Tibet RailwayThis week, the tragedy of Tibet. It's now 51 years since the Chinese invasion that killed an estimated one sixth of the population. And the rule of the boot continues - Tibetans kept in check by hundreds of thousands of Chinese troops.
Now China is set to tighten its grip even more with a new railway line across the mountains to Llasa, the capital.
Beijing hopes it will do for the remote province what the iron horse did for America's west... the Dalai Lama says it will complete the process of cultural genocide.
This report from Eric Campbell... produced, as always, under strict Chinese censorship.
Workers building railway line Campbell: With sweat and toil, Chinese workers push forward the march of rail. For half a century, the Chinese Communist Party has knitted its vast empire together by railway track. Trains have brought trade, troops and Chinese migrants to the furthest reaches of the country, helping Beijing to maintain tight, political control. Now it is building the last link in its network -- a railway line across the mountainous province of Tibet. Officials insist it will bring equality and prosperity.
Official Official: The Qinghai-Tibet railway will bring happiness to the Tibet people. It is called The Happy Line. It will bring happiness.
Music
Railway workers Campbell: But many fear it will complete Chinas destruction of Tibetan culture and freedom.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: Within a few years time, I think then Tibet, Tibetan with its unique culture to culture, heritage, then maybe, may become history. (laughs) So this very serious danger, very serious danger.
Railway passengers Campbell: Every year, 100 million Chinese are on the move, roaming the worlds third largest country in search of work. These job-seekers are heading to the very end of the line -- the desert city of Golmud near the frontier of Tibet. Some hope to work on the new railway being built from Golmud to the Tibetan capital, Lhasa.
The area is normally off-limits to foreign journalists. But today the Chinese Government is taking a group of us see the areas investment potential. Even so, our Chinese minders will try to control everything we see and do, as we find within minutes of boarding the train.
Campbell on train Campbell: So why cant we film on the train? Official: You're welcome to film outside.Campbell: Can we go to another carriage? Can we speak to the people who are on this train?Official: Due to railway regulation number....
Campbell: We managed to get as far as the next carriage filled with migrating workers and their families. Campbell to passengers: Hello, how are you?Campbell: Within seconds, police ordered us back.
Policeman: No.Campbell: What?Policeman: Please go back.Campbell: Why?Policeman: Please go back first.Campbell: Im a journalist Im a journalist!Policeman: You go back first.
Campbell: At least a dozen police and plain clothes security agents made sure we didnt try again.
Gobi desert view from train By dawn, we had travelled hundreds of kilometres across the Gobi desert to the Tibetan plateau. For centuries, this was traditional Tibetan land. But the Communists parcelled it off into the neighbouring province of Qinghai. Then they extended the railway line here to tap its mineral resources. The Tibetans were soon overwhelmed by migrant Chinese.
Passengers alighting at Golmud Today, as every day, most of the new arrivals are from Chinas dominant ethnic group, the Han Chinese. They make up 90 per cent of Golmuds 200,000 residents. Less than 5,000 are ethnic Tibetans. It is very much Chinas vision of the future.
Press briefing At a press briefing, officials spoke glowingly of the industrial potential of this traditional Tibetan land, and the rich prospects for Chinese migrants.
Official at briefing Official: I can imagine in five to ten years, Golmud will become a modern industrial city. It is estimated that its population will reach 300,000 to 350,000.
Campbell: But the developments so far appear to have been of little benefit to ethnic Tibetans.
Journalists at oil refinery We were taken to an oil refinery on the outskirts of Golmud. Its one of the largest refineries in China with close to a thousand workers.
Campbell: How many of them are Tibetans?Man: Tibetan?Campbell: Do you have any Tibetans working here?Man: Some, someone, a little.
Campbell: In fact, there are none. The workers we were allowed to film told us later they had never even seen a Tibetan at the plant.
Journalists on bus But China insists development is improving Tibetans lives.
To prove it, the tour rolled on to a carefully selected ethnic Tibetan village by the scenic backdrop of Lake Qinghai. The authorities have settled about 80 per cent of the nomads who used to herd their livestock around the lake. They get a mud brick house and a small pen for their animals. Critics accuse the Government of putting Tibetans on marginal land while giving the best to well-connected Han Chinese. But the herdsman who officials presented for interview had only praise for the ruling party.
Herdsman Man: The Communist Party is good. Now each aspect of our herdsmens lives has improved. Some families have cars or motors. All these are granted by the Communist Party and the country.
Campbell: Having received the correct answers the minders saw no need for us to question him further.
Campbell with official Campbell: We need time to talk to people.Minder: We stay here a long time, maybe we miss the train.Campbell: We have plenty of time to get the train, plenty of time.
Campbell: But later, when we slipped away from our minders, we found some ethnic Tibetans less enthralled with life under the Han Chinese.
Yang Zung at tea house Yang Zung runs a tea-house for Tibetan truck-drivers taking goods between Lhasa and Golmud. They have as little to do with Chinese as possible.
Yang Zung: Some Hans are very good. Some of them are okay. But some of them think we are behind the times. They think we are stupid, so we dont like to deal with these Hans. We only deal with our own nationality.
Tucks in town Campbell: News that China is building a railway to Tibet has increased their worries about the future. The truck drivers fear they will lose their livelihood. But they fear even more what it will do to their homeland.
Truck driver Truck driver: When the railway is built, they will take away mineral resources from here. Itll be like that. There is no benefit for the Tibetans.
Bai Ma with colleagues shraing toast Campbell: Bai Ma is one Tibetan who has benefited. He has risen through the Communist hierarchy to become Qinghais deputy governor. He is a staunch defender of the Party and the new railway.
Bai Ma Bai Ma: They can trade the products they produce in markets. Tibetans have never seen a train before, let alone caught one. They can take a train to change their commodities in markets outside of Tibet. And they can afford it.
Campbell: Further up the highway we found two Tibetan nomads who really are looking forward to the railway.
Nomads with fleeces on side of road Gizza and his friend Tashidawa were trying to flag down passing trucks to take their yak fleece to Golmud. It can be a long wait. They can hardly believe their luck that the government is building such a huge project to save them hitch-hiking.
Tashidawa Tashidawa: We wont be catching trucks. There will be a small railway station up there and we wont have to catch trucks. That will be a lot more convenient.
Music
Trucks on highway to Lhasa Campbell: It takes up to the three days to drive the long and sometimes treacherous road to Lhasa. China has dreamt of building a railway here ever since it invaded. But each time it has tried to extend the track the sheer scale of the operation has defeated it. Now it hopes new technology will make it possible. The headquarters have as many engineers as construction workers. But it will take at least six years and as many as 50,000 workers to complete the project. Estimates of the cost run as high as 10 billion US dollars.
Music
Aerial of highway through marsh Campbell: The further we travelled, the more extraordinary it seemed that China was even attempting this project. The line will have to cross 1100 kilometres of mountain and permafrost. Engineers will need to keep the permafrost frozen in summer, to prevent the line sinking into the marsh. They plan to construct hundreds of kilometres of underground freezer units. All this in nearly impossible working conditions.
Music
Kunlun Mountain Campbell: This is Kunlun Mountain, one of the highest passes the train line will need to cross. At nearly 5,000 metres the air is thin, its difficult to work and theyll working right through the winters at temperatures of minus 20. It is an awesome project. And you have to wonder why a country as poor as China would put so many resources and untold billions to build a line across all this to one of its poorest provinces.
Dharamsala Lamasery There was only one place to discuss this without Chinese interference
Dharamsala, home of Tibets Government-in-exile and its leader, the Dalai Lama.
He told me the railways real purpose would be to increase Chinas grip and to ravage Tibets resources.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: The Chinese ah always sort of, how you say, very much concerned, or afraid that Tibet one day might ah separate from China. Ah so, now recent years it seems they really make every effort you see to counter for that, sort of, risk.
They just you see concentrate Id say the maximum exploitation about natural resources. They have no respect or no concern about the environment damage.
Dharamsala Music
Campbell: This Himalayan town in the north of India has been the Dalai Lamas home since he fled China in 1959. Its become a beacon of Tibetan culture and independence.
Every year more than three thousand Tibetans make the dangerous crossing from China to come here. The Dalai Lama greets every new arrival.
Some of the Dalai Lamas followers are smitten foreigners.
His charisma has helped keep the Tibetan issue alive in the West. But hes even more popular with his former subjects. Many of them will soon return to Tibet. While some flee persecution, others evade Chinese border patrols simply to see relatives her or to have this audience. They are all told to continue the struggle for freedom.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: The Tibet problem is happen not due to civil war or natural disaster, but usual I describe Tibet problem as since the new guest come, without proper invitation.
Campbell: And stayed?Dalai Lama: So you see the guest come with gun. (Laughs) So theres the problem.
Tibetan prayer wheels Campbell: The activities of the Tibetan exiles here continue to irritate the Chinese Government. But what concerns it far more is that so many Tibetans inside China also continue to see the Dalai Lama as their leader -- so much so that thousands risk their lives to come here just to see him. All this after 50 years under Chinese control.
CCTV News broadcast Reporter: Fifty years ago today, the Central Government and the former Tibetan local government signed the agreement on peaceful liberation, namely the famous 17-point agreement. A new page in Tibetan history was turned.
Music
Raising of Chinese flag Campbell: China uses each anniversary of its invasion to paint the Dalai Lama as a feudal tyrant and the Chinese military as freedom fighters.
News Broadcast News Narration: The Central Peoples Government, with the Tibetan people and patriots, quickly crushed the rebellion -- and utilising the opportunity, carried out democratic reforms and abolished the religion-and-politics-in-one-feudal-serf system. The Tibetans became masters of the country for the first time.
Official: As long as we are under the leadership of the CPC and diligently carry out the 10th Five-Year Plan, the tomorrow of Tibet will be more beautiful.
Man: Personally my life is happy and beautiful. I celebrate this peaceful liberation anniversary from the bottom of my heart.
Migyur walking through market Campbell: Tsering Migyur was once a true believer in the Communist system. A Tibetan born in Lhasa, he rose to senior positions in the police service and military intelligence. But his growing disillusionment with Chinese rule led him to flee to India last year. He says there is no doubt China is building the railway to increase control.
Migyur Migyur: If you look at the towns in Tibet Lhasa, Tsetang, Shigatse -- all the outskirts, the lanes, the shops are full of Chinese. You will hardly see any Tibetans. If you go to Tibet it looks as if there are hardly any Tibetans around. This is the present situation. It is not just a comment, it is the reality.
Building project Campbell: But China is genuinely puzzled by the continuing international criticism of its occupation. It believes a half-century of Communist-sponsored development has brought immeasurable improvements.
CCTV News broadcast Official: Journey from darkness to brightness, from backwardness to progressiveness, from poverty to wealth, from ignorance to civilisation, from isolation to openness.
Procession at lamasery Campbell: We were able to test Chinas claims of freedom and openness on our trip to Qinghai. On the last day we were taken to the Tibetan lamasery of Kumbum. This is a sacred place to the Tibetans. It is also near the village where the Dalai Lama was born. Today, its a showcase of officially sanctioned religious freedom.
We were even allowed to question the ruling committee of lamas.
Lamas with interpreter Interpreter: This one is Shakur -- a living Buddha of this monastery.
Campbell: I asked them how much control the Communist Party had over the monastery. The discomfort was immediate.
Lama: Wrap it. Lets get up. Lama 2: All right. Lama: Due to the time limit we would like everyone to see more Campbell: Could you finish the answer please.Interpreter: Say the policy now is religious freedom. All right? There is no such thing as control.Lama: Yeah right, right. Interpreter: We cannot say control.
Campbell at press conference at lamasery Campbell: How much reverence do you have for the Dalai Lama and what place do you feel he should have in Tibetan society?Lama: You answer, Living Buddha. Lama: What kind of place does the Dalai Lama have in Tibetan society? Let's say we only know about this lamasery, nothing else. Lama: Just say whatever you like. Interpreter: We only know the circumstances about this lamasery -- about the others we know a little.
Reporter: The Dalai Lama comes from this monastery, so I think its a natural question to ask. Interpreter: She says Dalai Lama is from this monastery. Like you said, you only know about this monastery, so its normal for you to answer this question.Lama: Get up get up.Lama: Hmm all right.
Campbell: Abruptly, the press conference was over. It was a question the lamas dared not answer. Three years ago the lamaserys abbot fled to the United States after China pressured him to disown the Dalai Lama.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: So, so they actually what they want a Buddhist at the same time should be absolutely loyal to the Communist Party. That is rather difficult. (laughs) So sometimes they are making every effort to achieve some impossible thing. (laughs)
Mr Lu and Campbell on street Mr Lu: You want me to leave?Campbell: No, I'm asking your permission.Mr Lu: Okay, I'll leave. Campbell: No, no, no.
Campbell: I asked our senior minder, the Foreign Ministrys Mr Lu, why the lamas were so nervous about speaking to us. He denied there had been any pressure.
Mr Lu: You can ask any question you wish and they may answer any question they wish. This is your right to raise your questions and their right to answer your questions. Campbell: Why do you think they are scared to answer us?Mr Lu: Why do you think Im here scaring the religious people here? Why do you think they are scared by the Chinese Government?Campbell: They obviously were scared to answer the questions.Mr Lu: Do you think theyre scared by the Chinese authorities?Campbell: Well yes it would seem fairly obvious to me.
Mr Lu: So now everything is on your television, right?Campbell: Yes.
Mr Lu: It seems that you are also trying to scare the Chinese Government authorities.Campbell: Im trying to scare the Chinese Government? Im not in a position Mr Lu: Youre threatening. You're threatening.Campbell: No, Im a journalist. Im just asking questions.Mr Lu: You are threatening the Chinese Government authorities and now youre trying to scare the religious people here.
Outside lamasery Campbell: Outside, two monks told us privately they had been warned not to speak us.
There was an obvious presence of uniformed police and even more plain clothes police following our every move. Kumbum turned out to be another example of how marginalised Tibetans have become. Two Han Chinese women were even dressed as Tibetans for Han Chinese tourists to take photos. For a place of contemplation, it was seething with tension. When a Chinese American photographer came too close, a lama attacked him.
Lama attacks tourist After half a century, many Tibetans remain unwilling subjects of China, but time is on Chinas side. The Dalai Lama is 66 and may not live beyond the decade. By then, China will have completed its railway. Han Chinese will pour in by the trainload day after day after day.
Train If Beijing is sincere in its pledge to help Tibet, the railway may bring unprecedented benefits. But after half a century of what many call genocide, the worst may be yet to come.
Credits TIBET RAILWAYReporter: Eric CampbellCamera: Sebastian PhuaEditor: Simon Brynjolffssen
Suggested link: World in Focus: Dalai Lama interviewAnd now to the Dalai Lama himself, who recently visited Australia to great public acclaim though to a chorus of raspberries from the Chinese. Nothing new there. Over the years they've damned him as a fraud, a crook, a murderer though it was Rupert Murdoch who offered the most imaginative insult when, as part of his campaign for Chinese satellite rights, he described the Dalai Lama as "a very political old monk shuffling round in Gucci shoes". But ordinary Australians, including thousands of schoolchildren flocked to hear the Dalai Llama speak. He's speaking here to the ABC's Jennifer Byrne.
Dalai Lama interview Byrne: Thank you very much for joining us on Foreign Correspondent. The Chinese as you've said, they are the guests who came with guns. Now they come with money, is it even harder to stop the conquest of Tibet ?
His Holiness: (laughs) Your question's quite sharp. Now, actually the Chinese government you see, they are putting, pouring more and more money into Tibet with hope eventually that the Tibetan spirit will diminish.
Byrne: What do you believe?
His Holiness: Two years ago I received one letter from Tibet. It said the Chinese government now decided to make a railroad to Tibet -- a railway link -- and then within thirty years twenty million Chinese were going to settle in Tibet. So if that kind of situation happened, then Tibet would finish.
Byrne: I'd like to ask yourself Your Holiness, even though you've been insulted by experts - by our own politicians who won't meet you, by the Chinese, by Rupert Murdoch -- do you ever allow yourself the luxury of being offended?
His Holiness: Sometimes there is a little irritation, but then, of course, one of the main practice is you see is to try to cultivate respect towards one's own enemy, or the people who create problems or harm to you.
Byrne: Even to Rupert Murdoch?
His Holiness: Oh certainly...
Byrne: ... when he talks about your Gucci shoes - rudely.
His Holiness: Okay, I dont think it's true. Out of his ignorance, I think. It doesn't matter. When sometimes the Chinese accuse me as a murderer, or as a rapist - it doesn't matter. Mainly they are ignorant. And in some cases they have to say things like that.
Byrne: What is the time that you have been offended, when it actually wounds you?
His Holiness: When I heard this story of torture and beating inside Tibet, then sometimes I feel I think besides sadness, a little irritation. Sometimes a little anger, I also succumb. But then I consciously say this is not right. I am a Buddhist. I am a practitioner of altruism. So I try to minimise these negative feelings.
Byrne: As you have said, people have tried to paint you as a living God - as a living Buddha - a man God, you say you are very much a human.
His Holiness: (laughs) If it is some Tibetan, you see - they say or I think believe, the Tibetan sort of bright future can be achieved through just praying to the Dalai Lama. That is nonsense.
Byrne: So they should not pray to the Dalai Lama?
His Holiness: It is useless. We work hard, we have to work hard, even Dalai himself. Through prayer nothing can be achieved. I'm always telling people prayer of course is good, but through prayer we can't change the reality. Very different. So change reality through heart, through action!
Byrne: Through work?
His Holiness: Yes. Karma means action. So things change through action not by prayer, not by wish.
Byrne: But it's a long time coming isn't it - will they ever leave you be?
His Holiness: Well firstly I'm not seeking independence. I'm not seeking complete separation from China. Tibet's a landlocked country - materially backward. Of course spiritually very rich - I think very rich - but spirituality alone cannot fill our stomachs. So we need money. We need more material development. For that reason if we remain within the Peoples Republic of China, providing the Chinese government treat us or respect us, respect our culture, respect our own basic right, then as far as material development is concerned we might get greater benefit if we remain in the People's Republic of China.
Byrne: You have said that your successor will come from outside China. China have said that it will come from inside China - is this also a worry for you? Can you be sure that the Dalai Lama will continue as you wish? Forgive me for asking about your death like this, but...
His Holiness: No, no... I understand...it's okay., no problem. Now whether the Dalai Lama institution should continue or not is entirely up to the Tibetan people. If under present circumstances, if I die and the Tibetan people want another sort of reincarnation, then the genuine reincarnation will appear outside Tibet because the main purpose of reincarnation is to fulfil the task which was started by the previous life but is not yet fulfilled. So logically, if, you see, the reincarnation is in Chinese hands and becomes a puppet, it will not help. But of course they have their power, they have their force. So one artificial Dalai Lama - I think one Dalai Lama in Tibetan has mouth service lip service, but in heart there's another genuine Dalai Lama who is outside Tibet. So, that is the reality.
Byrne: Do you feel in any way that you have failed the people of Tibet because they are still not free - they are have to fight for their belief and their freedom?
His Holiness: Yes -- I give one example -- reunion inside Tibet, outside of Tibet-- now for the three years past -- so anyway, failed. But at same time preserved Tibetan culture, heritage on this planet. Not only amongst Tibetans, but also among Tibetan friends - including some Australians. I think we achieved something. I think that we created some kind of source - of hope - for Tibetans inside Tibet. So that's our achievement. So it's not a complete failure. I think there always is some failure, some field, some aspect, achievement. So that's I think, the nature of life.
Byrne: Your holiness it's a great pleasure to meet you - thank you.
His Holiness: Thank you. Thank you very much.
A 21 minute news feature Suggested Link Tibet RailwayThis week, the tragedy of Tibet. It's now 51 years since the Chinese invasion that killed an estimated one sixth of the population. And the rule of the boot continues - Tibetans kept in check by hundreds of thousands of Chinese troops.
Now China is set to tighten its grip even more with a new railway line across the mountains to Llasa, the capital.
Beijing hopes it will do for the remote province what the iron horse did for America's west... the Dalai Lama says it will complete the process of cultural genocide.
This report from Eric Campbell... produced, as always, under strict Chinese censorship.
Workers building railway line Campbell: With sweat and toil, Chinese workers push forward the march of rail. For half a century, the Chinese Communist Party has knitted its vast empire together by railway track. Trains have brought trade, troops and Chinese migrants to the furthest reaches of the country, helping Beijing to maintain tight, political control. Now it is building the last link in its network -- a railway line across the mountainous province of Tibet. Officials insist it will bring equality and prosperity.
Official Official: The Qinghai-Tibet railway will bring happiness to the Tibet people. It is called The Happy Line. It will bring happiness.
Music
Railway workers Campbell: But many fear it will complete Chinas destruction of Tibetan culture and freedom.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: Within a few years time, I think then Tibet, Tibetan with its unique culture to culture, heritage, then maybe, may become history. (laughs) So this very serious danger, very serious danger.
Railway passengers Campbell: Every year, 100 million Chinese are on the move, roaming the worlds third largest country in search of work. These job-seekers are heading to the very end of the line -- the desert city of Golmud near the frontier of Tibet. Some hope to work on the new railway being built from Golmud to the Tibetan capital, Lhasa.
The area is normally off-limits to foreign journalists. But today the Chinese Government is taking a group of us see the areas investment potential. Even so, our Chinese minders will try to control everything we see and do, as we find within minutes of boarding the train.
Campbell on train Campbell: So why cant we film on the train? Official: You're welcome to film outside.Campbell: Can we go to another carriage? Can we speak to the people who are on this train?Official: Due to railway regulation number....
Campbell: We managed to get as far as the next carriage filled with migrating workers and their families. Campbell to passengers: Hello, how are you?Campbell: Within seconds, police ordered us back.
Policeman: No.Campbell: What?Policeman: Please go back.Campbell: Why?Policeman: Please go back first.Campbell: Im a journalist Im a journalist!Policeman: You go back first.
Campbell: At least a dozen police and plain clothes security agents made sure we didnt try again.
Gobi desert view from train By dawn, we had travelled hundreds of kilometres across the Gobi desert to the Tibetan plateau. For centuries, this was traditional Tibetan land. But the Communists parcelled it off into the neighbouring province of Qinghai. Then they extended the railway line here to tap its mineral resources. The Tibetans were soon overwhelmed by migrant Chinese.
Passengers alighting at Golmud Today, as every day, most of the new arrivals are from Chinas dominant ethnic group, the Han Chinese. They make up 90 per cent of Golmuds 200,000 residents. Less than 5,000 are ethnic Tibetans. It is very much Chinas vision of the future.
Press briefing At a press briefing, officials spoke glowingly of the industrial potential of this traditional Tibetan land, and the rich prospects for Chinese migrants.
Official at briefing Official: I can imagine in five to ten years, Golmud will become a modern industrial city. It is estimated that its population will reach 300,000 to 350,000.
Campbell: But the developments so far appear to have been of little benefit to ethnic Tibetans.
Journalists at oil refinery We were taken to an oil refinery on the outskirts of Golmud. Its one of the largest refineries in China with close to a thousand workers.
Campbell: How many of them are Tibetans?Man: Tibetan?Campbell: Do you have any Tibetans working here?Man: Some, someone, a little.
Campbell: In fact, there are none. The workers we were allowed to film told us later they had never even seen a Tibetan at the plant.
Journalists on bus But China insists development is improving Tibetans lives.
To prove it, the tour rolled on to a carefully selected ethnic Tibetan village by the scenic backdrop of Lake Qinghai. The authorities have settled about 80 per cent of the nomads who used to herd their livestock around the lake. They get a mud brick house and a small pen for their animals. Critics accuse the Government of putting Tibetans on marginal land while giving the best to well-connected Han Chinese. But the herdsman who officials presented for interview had only praise for the ruling party.
Herdsman Man: The Communist Party is good. Now each aspect of our herdsmens lives has improved. Some families have cars or motors. All these are granted by the Communist Party and the country.
Campbell: Having received the correct answers the minders saw no need for us to question him further.
Campbell with official Campbell: We need time to talk to people.Minder: We stay here a long time, maybe we miss the train.Campbell: We have plenty of time to get the train, plenty of time.
Campbell: But later, when we slipped away from our minders, we found some ethnic Tibetans less enthralled with life under the Han Chinese.
Yang Zung at tea house Yang Zung runs a tea-house for Tibetan truck-drivers taking goods between Lhasa and Golmud. They have as little to do with Chinese as possible.
Yang Zung: Some Hans are very good. Some of them are okay. But some of them think we are behind the times. They think we are stupid, so we dont like to deal with these Hans. We only deal with our own nationality.
Tucks in town Campbell: News that China is building a railway to Tibet has increased their worries about the future. The truck drivers fear they will lose their livelihood. But they fear even more what it will do to their homeland.
Truck driver Truck driver: When the railway is built, they will take away mineral resources from here. Itll be like that. There is no benefit for the Tibetans.
Bai Ma with colleagues shraing toast Campbell: Bai Ma is one Tibetan who has benefited. He has risen through the Communist hierarchy to become Qinghais deputy governor. He is a staunch defender of the Party and the new railway.
Bai Ma Bai Ma: They can trade the products they produce in markets. Tibetans have never seen a train before, let alone caught one. They can take a train to change their commodities in markets outside of Tibet. And they can afford it.
Campbell: Further up the highway we found two Tibetan nomads who really are looking forward to the railway.
Nomads with fleeces on side of road Gizza and his friend Tashidawa were trying to flag down passing trucks to take their yak fleece to Golmud. It can be a long wait. They can hardly believe their luck that the government is building such a huge project to save them hitch-hiking.
Tashidawa Tashidawa: We wont be catching trucks. There will be a small railway station up there and we wont have to catch trucks. That will be a lot more convenient.
Music
Trucks on highway to Lhasa Campbell: It takes up to the three days to drive the long and sometimes treacherous road to Lhasa. China has dreamt of building a railway here ever since it invaded. But each time it has tried to extend the track the sheer scale of the operation has defeated it. Now it hopes new technology will make it possible. The headquarters have as many engineers as construction workers. But it will take at least six years and as many as 50,000 workers to complete the project. Estimates of the cost run as high as 10 billion US dollars.
Music
Aerial of highway through marsh Campbell: The further we travelled, the more extraordinary it seemed that China was even attempting this project. The line will have to cross 1100 kilometres of mountain and permafrost. Engineers will need to keep the permafrost frozen in summer, to prevent the line sinking into the marsh. They plan to construct hundreds of kilometres of underground freezer units. All this in nearly impossible working conditions.
Music
Kunlun Mountain Campbell: This is Kunlun Mountain, one of the highest passes the train line will need to cross. At nearly 5,000 metres the air is thin, its difficult to work and theyll working right through the winters at temperatures of minus 20. It is an awesome project. And you have to wonder why a country as poor as China would put so many resources and untold billions to build a line across all this to one of its poorest provinces.
Dharamsala Lamasery There was only one place to discuss this without Chinese interference
Dharamsala, home of Tibets Government-in-exile and its leader, the Dalai Lama.
He told me the railways real purpose would be to increase Chinas grip and to ravage Tibets resources.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: The Chinese ah always sort of, how you say, very much concerned, or afraid that Tibet one day might ah separate from China. Ah so, now recent years it seems they really make every effort you see to counter for that, sort of, risk.
They just you see concentrate Id say the maximum exploitation about natural resources. They have no respect or no concern about the environment damage.
Dharamsala Music
Campbell: This Himalayan town in the north of India has been the Dalai Lamas home since he fled China in 1959. Its become a beacon of Tibetan culture and independence.
Every year more than three thousand Tibetans make the dangerous crossing from China to come here. The Dalai Lama greets every new arrival.
Some of the Dalai Lamas followers are smitten foreigners.
His charisma has helped keep the Tibetan issue alive in the West. But hes even more popular with his former subjects. Many of them will soon return to Tibet. While some flee persecution, others evade Chinese border patrols simply to see relatives her or to have this audience. They are all told to continue the struggle for freedom.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: The Tibet problem is happen not due to civil war or natural disaster, but usual I describe Tibet problem as since the new guest come, without proper invitation.
Campbell: And stayed?Dalai Lama: So you see the guest come with gun. (Laughs) So theres the problem.
Tibetan prayer wheels Campbell: The activities of the Tibetan exiles here continue to irritate the Chinese Government. But what concerns it far more is that so many Tibetans inside China also continue to see the Dalai Lama as their leader -- so much so that thousands risk their lives to come here just to see him. All this after 50 years under Chinese control.
CCTV News broadcast Reporter: Fifty years ago today, the Central Government and the former Tibetan local government signed the agreement on peaceful liberation, namely the famous 17-point agreement. A new page in Tibetan history was turned.
Music
Raising of Chinese flag Campbell: China uses each anniversary of its invasion to paint the Dalai Lama as a feudal tyrant and the Chinese military as freedom fighters.
News Broadcast News Narration: The Central Peoples Government, with the Tibetan people and patriots, quickly crushed the rebellion -- and utilising the opportunity, carried out democratic reforms and abolished the religion-and-politics-in-one-feudal-serf system. The Tibetans became masters of the country for the first time.
Official: As long as we are under the leadership of the CPC and diligently carry out the 10th Five-Year Plan, the tomorrow of Tibet will be more beautiful.
Man: Personally my life is happy and beautiful. I celebrate this peaceful liberation anniversary from the bottom of my heart.
Migyur walking through market Campbell: Tsering Migyur was once a true believer in the Communist system. A Tibetan born in Lhasa, he rose to senior positions in the police service and military intelligence. But his growing disillusionment with Chinese rule led him to flee to India last year. He says there is no doubt China is building the railway to increase control.
Migyur Migyur: If you look at the towns in Tibet Lhasa, Tsetang, Shigatse -- all the outskirts, the lanes, the shops are full of Chinese. You will hardly see any Tibetans. If you go to Tibet it looks as if there are hardly any Tibetans around. This is the present situation. It is not just a comment, it is the reality.
Building project Campbell: But China is genuinely puzzled by the continuing international criticism of its occupation. It believes a half-century of Communist-sponsored development has brought immeasurable improvements.
CCTV News broadcast Official: Journey from darkness to brightness, from backwardness to progressiveness, from poverty to wealth, from ignorance to civilisation, from isolation to openness.
Procession at lamasery Campbell: We were able to test Chinas claims of freedom and openness on our trip to Qinghai. On the last day we were taken to the Tibetan lamasery of Kumbum. This is a sacred place to the Tibetans. It is also near the village where the Dalai Lama was born. Today, its a showcase of officially sanctioned religious freedom.
We were even allowed to question the ruling committee of lamas.
Lamas with interpreter Interpreter: This one is Shakur -- a living Buddha of this monastery.
Campbell: I asked them how much control the Communist Party had over the monastery. The discomfort was immediate.
Lama: Wrap it. Lets get up. Lama 2: All right. Lama: Due to the time limit we would like everyone to see more Campbell: Could you finish the answer please.Interpreter: Say the policy now is religious freedom. All right? There is no such thing as control.Lama: Yeah right, right. Interpreter: We cannot say control.
Campbell at press conference at lamasery Campbell: How much reverence do you have for the Dalai Lama and what place do you feel he should have in Tibetan society?Lama: You answer, Living Buddha. Lama: What kind of place does the Dalai Lama have in Tibetan society? Let's say we only know about this lamasery, nothing else. Lama: Just say whatever you like. Interpreter: We only know the circumstances about this lamasery -- about the others we know a little.
Reporter: The Dalai Lama comes from this monastery, so I think its a natural question to ask. Interpreter: She says Dalai Lama is from this monastery. Like you said, you only know about this monastery, so its normal for you to answer this question.Lama: Get up get up.Lama: Hmm all right.
Campbell: Abruptly, the press conference was over. It was a question the lamas dared not answer. Three years ago the lamaserys abbot fled to the United States after China pressured him to disown the Dalai Lama.
Dalai Lama Dalai Lama: So, so they actually what they want a Buddhist at the same time should be absolutely loyal to the Communist Party. That is rather difficult. (laughs) So sometimes they are making every effort to achieve some impossible thing. (laughs)
Mr Lu and Campbell on street Mr Lu: You want me to leave?Campbell: No, I'm asking your permission.Mr Lu: Okay, I'll leave. Campbell: No, no, no.
Campbell: I asked our senior minder, the Foreign Ministrys Mr Lu, why the lamas were so nervous about speaking to us. He denied there had been any pressure.
Mr Lu: You can ask any question you wish and they may answer any question they wish. This is your right to raise your questions and their right to answer your questions. Campbell: Why do you think they are scared to answer us?Mr Lu: Why do you think Im here scaring the religious people here? Why do you think they are scared by the Chinese Government?Campbell: They obviously were scared to answer the questions.Mr Lu: Do you think theyre scared by the Chinese authorities?Campbell: Well yes it would seem fairly obvious to me.
Mr Lu: So now everything is on your television, right?Campbell: Yes.
Mr Lu: It seems that you are also trying to scare the Chinese Government authorities.Campbell: Im trying to scare the Chinese Government? Im not in a position Mr Lu: Youre threatening. You're threatening.Campbell: No, Im a journalist. Im just asking questions.Mr Lu: You are threatening the Chinese Government authorities and now youre trying to scare the religious people here.
Outside lamasery Campbell: Outside, two monks told us privately they had been warned not to speak us.
There was an obvious presence of uniformed police and even more plain clothes police following our every move. Kumbum turned out to be another example of how marginalised Tibetans have become. Two Han Chinese women were even dressed as Tibetans for Han Chinese tourists to take photos. For a place of contemplation, it was seething with tension. When a Chinese American photographer came too close, a lama attacked him.
Lama attacks tourist After half a century, many Tibetans remain unwilling subjects of China, but time is on Chinas side. The Dalai Lama is 66 and may not live beyond the decade. By then, China will have completed its railway. Han Chinese will pour in by the trainload day after day after day.
Train If Beijing is sincere in its pledge to help Tibet, the railway may bring unprecedented benefits. But after half a century of what many call genocide, the worst may be yet to come.
Credits TIBET RAILWAYReporter: Eric CampbellCamera: Sebastian PhuaEditor: Simon Brynjolffssen
Suggested link: World in Focus: Dalai Lama interviewAnd now to the Dalai Lama himself, who recently visited Australia to great public acclaim though to a chorus of raspberries from the Chinese. Nothing new there. Over the years they've damned him as a fraud, a crook, a murderer though it was Rupert Murdoch who offered the most imaginative insult when, as part of his campaign for Chinese satellite rights, he described the Dalai Lama as "a very political old monk shuffling round in Gucci shoes". But ordinary Australians, including thousands of schoolchildren flocked to hear the Dalai Llama speak. He's speaking here to the ABC's Jennifer Byrne.
Dalai Lama interview Byrne: Thank you very much for joining us on Foreign Correspondent. The Chinese as you've said, they are the guests who came with guns. Now they come with money, is it even harder to stop the conquest of Tibet ?
His Holiness: (laughs) Your question's quite sharp. Now, actually the Chinese government you see, they are putting, pouring more and more money into Tibet with hope eventually that the Tibetan spirit will diminish.
Byrne: What do you believe?
His Holiness: Two years ago I received one letter from Tibet. It said the Chinese government now decided to make a railroad to Tibet -- a railway link -- and then within thirty years twenty million Chinese were going to settle in Tibet. So if that kind of situation happened, then Tibet would finish.
Byrne: I'd like to ask yourself Your Holiness, even though you've been insulted by experts - by our own politicians who won't meet you, by the Chinese, by Rupert Murdoch -- do you ever allow yourself the luxury of being offended?
His Holiness: Sometimes there is a little irritation, but then, of course, one of the main practice is you see is to try to cultivate respect towards one's own enemy, or the people who create problems or harm to you.
Byrne: Even to Rupert Murdoch?
His Holiness: Oh certainly...
Byrne: ... when he talks about your Gucci shoes - rudely.
His Holiness: Okay, I dont think it's true. Out of his ignorance, I think. It doesn't matter. When sometimes the Chinese accuse me as a murderer, or as a rapist - it doesn't matter. Mainly they are ignorant. And in some cases they have to say things like that.
Byrne: What is the time that you have been offended, when it actually wounds you?
His Holiness: When I heard this story of torture and beating inside Tibet, then sometimes I feel I think besides sadness, a little irritation. Sometimes a little anger, I also succumb. But then I consciously say this is not right. I am a Buddhist. I am a practitioner of altruism. So I try to minimise these negative feelings.
Byrne: As you have said, people have tried to paint you as a living God - as a living Buddha - a man God, you say you are very much a human.
His Holiness: (laughs) If it is some Tibetan, you see - they say or I think believe, the Tibetan sort of bright future can be achieved through just praying to the Dalai Lama. That is nonsense.
Byrne: So they should not pray to the Dalai Lama?
His Holiness: It is useless. We work hard, we have to work hard, even Dalai himself. Through prayer nothing can be achieved. I'm always telling people prayer of course is good, but through prayer we can't change the reality. Very different. So change reality through heart, through action!
Byrne: Through work?
His Holiness: Yes. Karma means action. So things change through action not by prayer, not by wish.
Byrne: But it's a long time coming isn't it - will they ever leave you be?
His Holiness: Well firstly I'm not seeking independence. I'm not seeking complete separation from China. Tibet's a landlocked country - materially backward. Of course spiritually very rich - I think very rich - but spirituality alone cannot fill our stomachs. So we need money. We need more material development. For that reason if we remain within the Peoples Republic of China, providing the Chinese government treat us or respect us, respect our culture, respect our own basic right, then as far as material development is concerned we might get greater benefit if we remain in the People's Republic of China.
Byrne: You have said that your successor will come from outside China. China have said that it will come from inside China - is this also a worry for you? Can you be sure that the Dalai Lama will continue as you wish? Forgive me for asking about your death like this, but...
His Holiness: No, no... I understand...it's okay., no problem. Now whether the Dalai Lama institution should continue or not is entirely up to the Tibetan people. If under present circumstances, if I die and the Tibetan people want another sort of reincarnation, then the genuine reincarnation will appear outside Tibet because the main purpose of reincarnation is to fulfil the task which was started by the previous life but is not yet fulfilled. So logically, if, you see, the reincarnation is in Chinese hands and becomes a puppet, it will not help. But of course they have their power, they have their force. So one artificial Dalai Lama - I think one Dalai Lama in Tibetan has mouth service lip service, but in heart there's another genuine Dalai Lama who is outside Tibet. So, that is the reality.
Byrne: Do you feel in any way that you have failed the people of Tibet because they are still not free - they are have to fight for their belief and their freedom?
His Holiness: Yes -- I give one example -- reunion inside Tibet, outside of Tibet-- now for the three years past -- so anyway, failed. But at same time preserved Tibetan culture, heritage on this planet. Not only amongst Tibetans, but also among Tibetan friends - including some Australians. I think we achieved something. I think that we created some kind of source - of hope - for Tibetans inside Tibet. So that's our achievement. So it's not a complete failure. I think there always is some failure, some field, some aspect, achievement. So that's I think, the nature of life.
Byrne: Your holiness it's a great pleasure to meet you - thank you.
His Holiness: Thank you. Thank you very much.