Speaker 1:

An oasis in the sand. Iraqs capitol city, Baghdad. Literally translated, it's the round. The original plans for the city was circular. Today, it's the city's drivers who are sent in circles. Not a problem when a full tank of petrol costs 25 cents. At those prices, it's easy to take a leisurely tour of the innumerable statues of President Saddam Hussein.

Saddam has done a great deal for the fine arts, and most of all, for sculpture. He's cast in bronze, chiselled in stone, and modelled in clay so often he needs a veritable army of sculptors, all of whom need to be trained.

Here at Baghdad's Academy of Arts, there are 60 students. But first appearances are deceptive. Many of the students works have far more than sycophantic merit and stand up easily to international comparison. Sadly, most such exhibits ends up in the storeroom.

A basis for these works and also good busts of Saddam is the professional trade that is organised here. Novice students, obviously, don't get to practise on the leader himself. Any mistake could prove costly. To on somewhat less dangerous models. Mostly, they concentrate on figures or animals using traditional Babylonian techniques.

Speaker 2:

When I be so good much in my work, I want to be a face of my President. It will be my pleasure. What ... I think I can't, no.

Speaker 1:

Every Friday, the Muslim day of rest, the famous animal market is set up in the centre of Baghdad. Iraqi's love animals, be they decorative or as pets, like cats and dogs to play with. And of course, to eat. Here, the lively hustle and bustle of trading doesn't belie any anxiety about war.

Passing the herds of camel, an hours trip south on the bus needs to Babylon, the cradle of human culture.

Saddam Hussein's well known obsession of building palace after palace has one very notable plus point. He rebuilt the famous palace of Nebuchadnezzar. As a co-builder, he has immortalised himself forever in these walls.

In the background, one of his newer palaces, suspected by the Americans of harbouring weapons material. In view of its size and the strict ban on photography and filming, an understandable, if unsubstantiated, speculation.

Lining the road from Baghdad to Babylon are many brick factories churning out the clay bricks for old and new palaces. It's the same way they've been made for 3000 years.

Back in Baghdad, the next stop is in the Artist's Quarter, in the Cafe Shabendar. The Iraqis have a saying, in Cairo it's written, in Beirut it's printed, and in Baghdad it's read. At this book market, all manner of printed matter is bartered and bought, down to help guides for the computer illiterate.

Equally international are the video stores. There's no sign of the embargo or censorship here. The latest Hollywood blockbusters are everywhere.

When you've had enough of leafing through books, CDs, or videos, the arts Cafe Shabendar offers the perfect tonic. Regular visitors have, by now, taken the secret polices presence for granted. People come here to talk. Somewhat difficult for a foreigner as scarcely anyone speaks English. But what you do hear is plenty of propaganda.

Speaker 3:

We are living in piece. We respect our government, our [inaudible 00:04:08], our President. Before two weeks we did ... enacted a referendum about our President and 100% accept him as good leader.

Speaker 1:

For those who don't have time for a coffee, it's usually possible to enjoy a cup of free tea at a traditional age old Arabian tea stand, like famous Iraqi artists [inaudible] and Kamal Hussein. They take us to the studio.

[inaudible] is always teased by his peers for always painting the same picture. He counters that everyone does. He's also famous for his bicycle pictures. There's a whole load of them and the pilot is growing. Strange when you consider there are hardly any bikes in Baghdad, on a count of petrol prices being so low. He reasons that the horse has been painted so much and no one says anything. The bike is also known as the iron horse. [inaudible] loves these iron horses and so he paints them. His pictures sell well.

Painters with less imagination don't go hungry either. There's a never ending demand for portraits of the President. This gallery, in Baghdad's Hotel Rashid, is one of many public galleries displaying and selling the art of Hussein.

If a portrait is a tad too big to take home as a souvenir, a solution isn't hard to find. Iraqi arts offers all conceivable ways of adulating Saddam.

With precise tone and timing, Saddam's Welcome Chance chimes out at the start of English hour at the music school.

With Franz Schubert, the endeavours are just as honest, if not quite as harmonious.

A violin student has plans for the long run.

"I would like to become a professional musician and play in a symphony orchestra, but I would also like to study engineering alongside."

The music school has 300 students who study classical, ballet and folk music. The folk group, especially, is very keen and professional, and often appears at concerts.

"I will now sing an old Arabian folk song. It is very famous in Iraq. The words mean, what is shining above the palm trees? Is it the moon, or is it your darling cheeks?"

Speaker 4:

[Foreign language - singing]