VOICEOVER : Here in Seoul, demonstrations against the Iraq war take on the air of an open-air concert. But the carnival atmosphere belies the deeper human feeling. With every additional day of war the pressure on the streets is mounting. South Koreans are afraid that the assault on Saddam is laying the foundation for a second Korean war. The feeling is that Washington decides the politics of nations like Iraq and North Korea. Through the threatening deployment of troops in neighbouring countries on the one hand, and on the other their aggressive Realpolitik. And Seoul says nothing – it is unequivocally on the side of the western allies.

DEMONSTRATOR : I’m protesting against the Iraq war and also against the fact that our government has sent 700 troops to Iraq. That’s basically saying “We actively support the American’s War of Occupation. And now there is naturally the fear with us that the USA could also bombard North Korea. We find it outrageous how the US soldiers conduct themselves here. In the last year GI' s killed two girls with a tank, and walked away scott-free."

VOICEOVER : The US military seems immune to such popular opinion. They are still performing maneouvers with the South Korean army within touching distance of the North Korean border. The regime in Pyongyang sees such war games as a precursor to a full scale invasion. The fear is hardly unfounded. Tactical planning games are clearly being played out in the Pentagon. The New York times has reported surgical-precision cruise missile air-strikes and the deployment of tactical nuclear weapons. All in the event diplomacy should finally fail.

MICHAEL WENGERT, POLITICAL ANALYST, SEOUL : "This is the most tension on the Korean peninsula that I’ve experienced for decades. There is a real possibility of an armed conflict with the north. The present government in Washington will obviously not hesitate to let the situation escalate. In earlier times it was clear that whatever happened, there wouldn’t be a war. Now it’s different. South Korea is naturally extremely anxious that Washington’s conversations with Pyongyang are thorough, or when the bombs start, north and South Korea will again be drawn into another war."

VOICEOVER : A ride along the 38th parallel. The last iron curtain. Behind this fence, beyond the demilitarised no-man’s land, lurks the ‘despised’ – as President Bush stated - nuclear power North Korea. Four kilometres of mines make the border completely unassailable. For decades the complete separation and alienation created by this mess of barbed wire have been far more pointed than the divide across the Berlin Wall ever was. Refusal and suspicions have festered around this border. About a people, so they say here, so dedicated to their leader they are prepared to follow him to their own death.
Historically, diplomatic discussions between Seoul and Pyongyang have taken place here, at Panmunyom. Eye to eye South has faced North, amid the highest levels of alertness and suspicion. Tension hangs in the air here Perhaps it contributed to the cat and mouse games played out almost daily under the gaze of this soldier. It all happened in earnest in these plain barracks, where the only regular contact between north and south took place under UN observation. For the time being, Pyongyang has called an end to such meetings. For western observers it would appear Kim Jong Il’s regime couldn’t care less about peace, having thrown all rationale out of the window.

TAE-HWAN, OK ONE, INSTITUTE FOR POLITICS RESEARCH, SEOUL : "I wouldn’t say the North Koreans are incalculable or irrational. I think they act in a very considered and strategic way. Pyongyang wants to retain the power and economic assistance afforded by South Korea and other countries. Even if the Americans were to attack North Korea, the regime in Pyongyang couldn’t throw themselves in totally because war would mean the collapse of their system. They know that".

VOICEOVER : In the meantime, possible war scenarios are still constantly played out in high stakes games of Risk. Washington have sent the strongest armed force for ten years to Korea on battleships like the Carl Vinson.. In March alone the Americans flew 220 espionage deployments over the Korean peninsula. Before any preemptive strike takes place against Pyongyang, however, Washington would first need to seek agreement from needs Seoul. The South Koreans would be loathe to give it: in the event of a US attack Seoul would be immediate targets of Pyongyang. South Korea does not want to leave crisis talks to the Americans.

KYUN JEA-MIN, FOREIGN MINISTRY, SEOUL : "We don’t want the dialogue with North Korea to be led solely by the USA, but also to involve China, Russia and Japan: regional powers in the Far-East. That would be fairer for North Korea. Above all, if any advancements in the discussions are to be accompanied by economic aid. Furthermore, the political system in Pyongyang should be recognized by the neighbouring countries, to save face for Kim Jong Il. Nobody should try to bring down the regime."

VOICEOVER : It isn’t just the wheels of war that are rolling towards the North. In a few years time, the train connection between south and North Korea is to be restored - as it last was five decades ago. Today the train only goes a few kilometres towards Pyongyang. For these passengers it is a journey into the past. Families take Sunday trips to gain a glimpse into their old homelands. For six years the regime in Pyongyang has permitted family reunifications on North Korean territory. A perfect photo opportunity for the world’s media. Just over a month ago, the family of Ha Sang- Nam took the opportunity to see their separated brother in the north. In 1950 - in the early fog of war, the family lost sight of each other, and for fifty years heard nothing of the whereabouts of their brother. With the help of the Red Cross they were finally reunited. Meeting again wasn’t easy.

HA SANG-NAM : "For three days we saw each other, but only for an hour per day. It was only possible to have the most superficial discussions with my brother. We discussed a few family things, but nothing political. I don’t even know what he does for a living. These topics were forbidden, the secret service were constantly present."

VOICEOVER : A new station is being built here to service trains to both Korean capitals. But at present such communication is still an illusion – nothing more. Nothing crosses the border from North Korea, no cars, no letters. For the families whose relatives live in the North, all they have to make do with, is a view, of a piece of border, of an inhospitable no-man’s land. Still, the faint hope of future reunification never leaves the heads of the old Koreans.

MICHAEL WENGERT : "Within this generation it is very difficult to conceive a reunification. And if it did happen, then reunification can only go ahead in stages, not in the same way as East and West Germany for instance. That would mean the immediate and absolute bankruptcy of the south. In the foreseeable future it is, as I said, very improbable."

VOICEOVER : The threat of military action still looms large. But after the war in Iraq is over, an immediate war on the Korean peninsula seems unlikely. North Korea still enjoys close ties to Beijing; to ignore such macro politics could have fatal consequences for world peace. The Korea crisis is an exercise in controlled escalation. But will diplomacy and negotiation have success here where they failed in Iraq? We could all find out the answer very soon...
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