Pakistan - Truck Painting

August 2003 - 6 min 23 sec


Synopsis

Anyone who’s travelled to Asia will be familiar with the way people like to decorate their vehicles.But in Pakistan, they elevate it to an art form.
Mark Corcoran discovers that in the colourful world of Pakistan truck painters, Osama bin Laden is old hat – these days reflecting glass patterns are all the go – meaning the teeming streets of Pakistan are alive with giant hazard indicators on wheels. The trucks, many of them old Bedford Rockets, provide a moving canvas for the artists, who compete to see who can execute the most daring and outrageous designs. Unfortunately, not as much time is devoted to what goes on under the bonnet, as on top of it.

Pakistan trucks in traffic

Music

22:00
Corcoran: There are 140 million people in Pakistan – and it seems almost as many trucks and buses. Beacons of individualism among the seething masses. There’s no need for bus route numbers here because once you’ve seen your ride you’re never likely to forget it.

22:10
Top of this technicolour pile-up are the truckers. They may not know much about art, but they know what they like. And in the eyes of a Pakistani truck driver, this is indeed a terrible sight – a new unadorned vehicle.

22:33
Kala Khan
Driver Ashraf has decided to do something about it. And the man to see is Kala Khan – a legend in the colourful world of truck decoration.

22:54
Workshop decorating trucks
Most trucks in Pakistan are fleet owned – but tradition allows the driver to chose the workshop – and oversee the make- over.Kala Khan invites Ashraf to meet the creative design team…

23:06
Kala Khan
Kala Khan: So tell me, what kind of body would you like – simple or decorated?
Ashraf: Decorated.
Kala Khan: We charge 200,000 rupees for that.
Ashraf: That’s OK I’ll pay 200,000.

23:23
Workshop
Corcoran: That’s the equivalent of $5,500 - serious money in any one’s language, and a small fortune in a country where the drivers only earn 80 dollars a month.But there is one other tradition – once a price is agreed – the workshop has almost total artistic licence.

Ashraf
Ashraf: I’ve been coming here for 8 to 10 years, because this guy makes good trucks – champion trucks.
23:55
Worshop men
Corcoran: Kala Khan’s dream team set to work on Ashraf’s rig - beginning with some precision customising of the chassis.The master then takes us on a yard tour, explaining the different types of trucks.

24:03
Kala Khan
Kala Khan: This is a Rocket truck -- and those are the paintings.

Rocket truck
Corcoran: The mainstay for many years was the old Bedford Rocket – built like the proverbial outhouse – and according to Kala Khan a wonderful artistic canvas.

24:22
Kala Khan: These trucks were built from the ‘40s to the ‘50s. Later came the modern Hino type of trucks – and since then demand for this old type of truck has diminished.

24:33
Men decorating truck
Corcoran: When Kala Khan started in the game 40 years ago – the creations were far more modest. Truck fashion can be fickle – movie star portraits were once popular – but the look of the moment resembles a giant hazard indicator on wheels.

24:48
Kala Khan: The most popular and expensive design now is reflector glass patterns and panels – so that when the truck is caught in another vehicle’s headlights – the whole truck should glow like a big light.

25:06
Decorated trucks
Music
Corcoran: Between the day-glow and glass there’s still some room left for artwork. You mightn’t necessarily make the connection between an airliner and a bowl of fruit – neither does the artist really – it’s more stream of consciousness with a paintbrush.
25:29
Man painting truck
Kala Khan: My workers will do even more job here – put more things in – do more than they are asked. So when customers see these extra things they appreciate it. It’s good for business.

25:46
Gul Wali gets into truck
Corcoran: The complete make over takes 45 days, and for driver Gul Wali the big moment has come – he’s arrived at the adjoining workshop to pick up his masterpiece. And explain why truckers are so driven in their quest for art.
26:02
Gul Wali
Gul Wali: It is our passion that we have to make the truck very good -- beautiful. It’s our tradition. We’re also competing with each other. If someone makes a beautiful truck I will have to make mine even better.

26
Corcoran: Despite all this attention to artistic detail – there’s not an awful lot of quality time being spent under the bonnet. Not a problem – reassures Kala Khan.

26:45
Kala Khan
Kala Khan: The engine is very reliable and good one. Once it’s moving not a single screw will need to be adjusted in six years. God willing.

26:57
Corcoran: There are no warranties here. Just the guiding hand of Allah – and the plea “Oh God help us” adorning many a rig.

27:06
Corcoran and Gul Wali get into truck Corcoran: This is it. All finished. Gul Wali: Well climb in – let’s go.

27:16
Corcoran: It’s time for a test run around the city of Peshawar.

Music

27:22
Gul Wali:I’m not a snob – but it is good to have a beautiful thing like this…Where’s the smoke coming from?

27:35
Corcoran: It’s the end of the road for Gul Wali – that six year engine guarantee has last barely 60 minutes.

27:53
Gul Wali attempts to fix truck Gul Wali:I don’t have the tools to get the air out. We’ll have to stop another truck.

28:03
Gul Wali runs down road Corcoran: In Pakistan, four wheelers may rule the roads – but for today at least, it’s a four legged rig that just keeps on truckin’

28:10
PAKISTAN TRUCKS
Reporter: Mark Corcoran
Camera: Ron Foley
Editor: Stuart Miller
Producer: Chris Clark

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