Pyramids in distance
Music
Byrne climbs pyramid
BYRNE: They soar into the sky just an hours drive from Mexico City. The pyramids of Teotihuacan 2000 years old, rough-hewn, and exceedingly steep.
Byrne to camera
BYRNE: For the civilisation that built this city, the Toltecs, the top of the pyramids was the roof of the world. They worshipped here, watched the stars and planets, and perhaps, made the odd human sacrifice. Modern Mexicans still come to Teotihuacan each year to honour the ancients, and celebrate the arrival of spring.
Jorge and dancers
Drumming
BYRNE: Musician Jorge Reyes and his dancers are here on the eve of the equinox, before the crowds. Its close to a holy day in Mexico, linking its present to its grand past.
Jorge: People go to celebrate it because it its the awakening of things, the start of a new cycle,
Jorge
the awake of sensuality, the time for planting seeds. Its life again. Like the eternal renewal of things.
Byrne: Are you sure its not because its a damn good big party?
Jorge: Well, also. Thats a big party.
Moon in sky
Music
BYRNE: The party starts before sunrise while the moon is still high. Both were worshipped by the Toltecs, the mother culture of Central America. Teotihuacan, at the heart of the empire, means the place where men become gods.
Jorge: The moon is the feminine, but its also sensual and its also very important for fertility. Sun is virility, sun is the force that makes things grow, sun and water you need for creating life.
Musicians play. Crowd turn to light
Music
BYRNE: As the sun rises, the crowd turns to the light. Absorbing its energy. Turning faces and hands to the sun. Some one million people, they estimate, will make this pilgrimage over the course of the day. As the party begins in earnest.
Music
Pilgrims climb pyramid
BYRNE: As the sun begins to burn, the paths up the pyramids become choked. No fences, so visitors cling and scramble and push. Its a mix of new age and family and leftover hippy as the OLD STONE city becomes a fairground.
Pilgrims
WOMAN: Its a beautiful moment for me, taking the energy from the beginning of spring.
WOMAN 2: Its part of our history.
MAN: Its something magical -- each time we come we find new things.You put up your hands and feel the energy entering into your palms, into your arms and going through your whole body. Thats the most special.
Shaman conducts smoke ritual
BYRNE: Though Mexicans are a strongly catholic nation, this is a day of shamans and superstitions -- a holiday from the rational.
Jorge: I dont want to read mythology, I want to live mythology
BYRNE: And on this one day of the year, inspired by the sun and the season, it seems all Mexico feels the same.
MEXICO PYRAMIDS
Reporter: Jennifer Byrne
Camera: Geoffrey Lye
Sound: Kate Graham
Editor: Garth Thomas
Producer: Vivien Altman
Music
Byrne climbs pyramid
BYRNE: They soar into the sky just an hours drive from Mexico City. The pyramids of Teotihuacan 2000 years old, rough-hewn, and exceedingly steep.
Byrne to camera
BYRNE: For the civilisation that built this city, the Toltecs, the top of the pyramids was the roof of the world. They worshipped here, watched the stars and planets, and perhaps, made the odd human sacrifice. Modern Mexicans still come to Teotihuacan each year to honour the ancients, and celebrate the arrival of spring.
Jorge and dancers
Drumming
BYRNE: Musician Jorge Reyes and his dancers are here on the eve of the equinox, before the crowds. Its close to a holy day in Mexico, linking its present to its grand past.
Jorge: People go to celebrate it because it its the awakening of things, the start of a new cycle,
Jorge
the awake of sensuality, the time for planting seeds. Its life again. Like the eternal renewal of things.
Byrne: Are you sure its not because its a damn good big party?
Jorge: Well, also. Thats a big party.
Moon in sky
Music
BYRNE: The party starts before sunrise while the moon is still high. Both were worshipped by the Toltecs, the mother culture of Central America. Teotihuacan, at the heart of the empire, means the place where men become gods.
Jorge: The moon is the feminine, but its also sensual and its also very important for fertility. Sun is virility, sun is the force that makes things grow, sun and water you need for creating life.
Musicians play. Crowd turn to light
Music
BYRNE: As the sun rises, the crowd turns to the light. Absorbing its energy. Turning faces and hands to the sun. Some one million people, they estimate, will make this pilgrimage over the course of the day. As the party begins in earnest.
Music
Pilgrims climb pyramid
BYRNE: As the sun begins to burn, the paths up the pyramids become choked. No fences, so visitors cling and scramble and push. Its a mix of new age and family and leftover hippy as the OLD STONE city becomes a fairground.
Pilgrims
WOMAN: Its a beautiful moment for me, taking the energy from the beginning of spring.
WOMAN 2: Its part of our history.
MAN: Its something magical -- each time we come we find new things.You put up your hands and feel the energy entering into your palms, into your arms and going through your whole body. Thats the most special.
Shaman conducts smoke ritual
BYRNE: Though Mexicans are a strongly catholic nation, this is a day of shamans and superstitions -- a holiday from the rational.
Jorge: I dont want to read mythology, I want to live mythology
BYRNE: And on this one day of the year, inspired by the sun and the season, it seems all Mexico feels the same.
MEXICO PYRAMIDS
Reporter: Jennifer Byrne
Camera: Geoffrey Lye
Sound: Kate Graham
Editor: Garth Thomas
Producer: Vivien Altman