View of San Sebastian
Music
21:00

Williams: Everything about San Sebastian is spectacular – the harbour setting, the people, the ambience -- but above all, a magical addiction to food.
21:06
Chefs prepare sardines
There aren’t a lot of Basque cookbooks – no one here seems to need them.
21:22

Chefs come from around the world to learn the secrets
21:30

But if they hung around the back streets they might just pick it all up for free.

Belandia at fishmongers
Belandia: Hake… Come on, clean it. 16 little pieces.
Fishmonger: Do you want a small hake?
21:49

Williams: Patxi Belandia may seem a little demanding, but food is a serious subject in these parts. And the pressure is on.
21:57
Belandia enters door
For half of you, this door normally marks the end of the tour, for this is a closed world, a testosterone fired society where all have one thing in common – they’re not women.
22:09
Belandia in kitchen
In two hours, Patxi must produce a gastronomic sensation for his closest friends.
22:24

If I was Basque, I’d have been born with gastronomy in the genes. Because here in San Sebastian, if you’re male and you can’t cook, it’s a social handicap that will blight your life forever.
22:34

Man: Don’t you ever put chorizo in this?
Belandia: No, no never.
Man: Take off all the fat and then I’ll cook it.
Belandia: Don’t you have to put some fat in this?
Man: No, no, no.
Belandia: Gee. What are we now – doctors?
Man: Yes.
Belandia: Once the chorizo’s ready, I’ll put it in.
Man: I don’t agree with that.
22:52
Men in kitchen
Williams: Debate over cooking technique is lubricated with some juicy blood sausages, and washed down with more than a drop of the local brew.
23:14
Man
Man: Cooking contests are run regularly and the clubs are also proud of being the best at cooking. So within the clubs they look for the people who are the best cooks and who want to compete.
23:26
Belandia carries blood sausage to table
Williams: For the last century the gastronomy clubs -- dozens of them -- have flourished --evidence of memorable meals and mates past festoon the walls.
23:45
Williams and men toast each other
This is a moment of celebration, a great gorging with your mates. Some fabulous Spanish red – and she who must be obeyed doesn’t have to obeyed at all, for the moment at least.
24:00
Dinner guest
Everybody here can be laugh, drink, chant, however they want, but there are ladies, always they make us stop – why did you do that, why did your friend or your neighbour do that-- and this makes a big difference.
24:15
Men singing
Singing


Williams: So boys can be boys, and from what I gather, the girls don’t mind the time off too. At least most of them. Did I say there were no women allowed?
24:41
Woman in kitchen
WOMAN: Women get together in the coffee shop with their friends and gossip, just like the men. The only difference is, men do it in bars and women do it in coffee shops in the afternoons. I think women have always been very liberal in that respect in the Basque country.
24:54
Men singing in restaurant
Singing
25:14

Williams: In case you think it’ll soon be adios to these bastions of blokery, the clubs’ waiting lists have never been longer.
25:36

As the night winds up, the wider world complete with wives will soon reclaim its men. But until then, one hundred years of tradition is proudly and loudly proclaimed.


Singing
26:00

BASQUE GASTRONOMY
Reporter: Philip Williams
Camera: John Tesoriero
Editor/sound: Mark Douglas
Research: Alberto Letona

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