00 00 17 17
For the last two generations more people have lived in cities than in the country. Disconnected from the land, people lose food and other cultural traditions.
00 00 42 16
For many their daily bread and most experiences come pre-packaged or delivered over fast food counters, products of corporate control.
00 00 51 14
Early morning, people rest after the reveries and before the homogenised world of shops, music, logos and food again bursts into commercial life- a life which further displaces urban people from their roots.
00 01 16 01
In this episode we go to the French culinary capital, Lyon, surrounded by vine laden hills and fish filled lakes.
00 01 34 14
Lyon is an exceptional city, rich with speciality food shops, Michelin starred restaurants and over 40 farmer’s markets, like this one -a place where the country enters the city.
00 01 46 03
As families leave the land and women leave the home for paid jobs, cookery has suffered.
00 01 56 20
But for some French people their cuisine, as their strawberries, remains the world’s best.
00 02 03 12
Early 20th century: merchants enriched the city but could no longer afford staff. Unemployed women cooks established ‘bouchon’-cafes with their ‘cooking of the grandmothers’.
00 02 16 11
In the Bouchon de L’Abie Rouge, Madame Huguette sautés mixed field mushrooms, a local delicacy.
00 02 27 23
The Lyonnais take pleasure in her regional dishes and their long lunches.
00 02 37 10
Between Madame Huguette and Marie, they create a cordial atmosphere: a delicious humanity of food, generosity and pleasure.
00 02 46 00
Madame Huguette speaks: ‘I work from 7:30 am until 7:45pm; for the day it’s …’
00 02 55 11
Good wine is so enjoyed, locals boast that the rivers Rhone and Saone flow into Lyon but a river of wine flows out of the city.
Oo o3 o8 24
As the silk industry disintegrated, farmers turned to the vineyards for survival.
00 03 14 12
Soon Beaujolais wines attained recognition equalling Bourgogne and Bordeaux, then the recognised centres of French viniculture.
00 03 26 13
On this estate, the Saint Cyr family utilise sustainable production techniques for their wines.
00 03 35 17
Recently they were awarded ‘Farmer of the Year’ for their efforts to preserve the equilibrium of the soil, limit their use of chemicals, preserve the water quality and provide traceability to the individual vine.
00 03 55 17
Attached to their cave is a small cafe where urban people often come to celebrate with local food and wines. This re-connects city dweller’s to the countryside.
00 04 23 11
France is a country divided by the butter of the north and the olive oil of the south. This diversity gives rise to the concept of terroir: the qualities of a particular soil, weather, flora and fauna…which feeds and gives identity to local urban centers.
00 04 43 09
Lyon has more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world, as two star chef Nicholas Le Bec’s restaurant in Lyon’s old quarter.
00 04 52 06
A star is gained through invention bound within the laws of the classic cuisine.
00 04 57 07
Le Bec speaks: “You should pay more attention to that…it’s inedible. It’s here, here, here…”
Oo05 03 23
A star is lost through inattention and inconsistency.
01 05 11 17
Le Bec speaks: We make this sauce everyday…
00 05 14 04
The celebrity system and huge investments place a strain on the chefs.
00 05 28 08
This is food as art with ingredients transformed into eye-candy, something which critics often celebrate and wealthy patrons esteem.
00 05 40 11
Le Bec speaks: “It’s a ***no?…”
00 05 41 07
Frog’s legs, asparagus, fresh herbs, exotic fruits;
fine ingredients from around the globe and with them food miles which pollute the atmosphere.
00 05 43 06
Le Bec speaks: “It’s not possible…not possible…”
00 05 29 19
Chef’s train at their mother’s stove, in colleges or sometimes they’re
self- taught. Their mentors lead them to the doorstep of their own imaginations……
00 06 01 10
Le Bec speaks: “You would have the skills but you don’t have the means…”
00 06 06 13
…but for their morality, disposition and imagination…they must assume self-responsibility.
00 06 22 09
This dish of local frog’s legs with a pea risotto fuses regional with Italian ideas and reveals that Le Bec embraces a broader European culture while turning away from traditional Lyonnais style.
Oo 06 38 12
He learned his cookery as a patisserie chef, the most scientific and least forgiving of specialities; one which prepares the person for repeatable production as this custard tart with sugared biscuits.
O0 07 03 13
Outside the calm of his dining room a dispute rumbles amongst the Lyonnais chefs: do you create a cuisine based on local ingredients or not?
00 07 11 08
Le Bec speaks: ‘As far as the products are concerned they come from everywhere in France, Europe, the world. They are not only from the Lyonnais. But from Europe or the world. This is not your usual starting point but its fine.’
00 07 46 18
Wheat from the surrounding hills provide Maison Jocteur it’s central ingredient for its wonderful breads, said to be the best in Lyon.
00 08 07 03
Under Phillipe Jocteur, apprentices and young bakers service the city’s restaurants as well as local shoppers.
Phillipe re-invigorated local bread traditions in the mid 1960’s and with this he captured the heart of the Lyonnais.
00 08 23 04
He insists that traditional methods, ingredients and time must be used to create his delicious varieties as here in the making of the classic baguette.
00 08 46 20
After the dough is mixed, it is left to rise and then it is formed into the appropriate shape as baguette, loaf or rolls. These then rest to develop more complex flavors and finally they are baked.
00 09 12 18
An apprentice slices rolls to be stuffed with meats and cheese for the passing lunch and snack trade while others prepare local cakes and patisserie, as this raspberry tartin.
00 09 25 06
Paul Bocuse, the father of contemporary Lyonnais cooking, said of Phillipe’s methods:
"For me they are a model of professionalism, of success. They remain very simple and are constant! "
00 09 56 18
Crusty warm rolls, delicious white loaves, mixed flour breads of the countryside emerge from the hot ovens, filling the bakery with the perfume of wheat, rye and corn, mingling with baked sugar and nuts…
00 10 21 00
Back in the terroir, the Geoffray family use as few chemicals as possible to raise their pigs which are kept in this shed for their entire lives.
00 10 37 07
To survive in a world of giant corporate buyers, the family realised it had to convert their animals into products sold directly to the consumer.
00 10 50 19
At their Charcuterie Fermiere ‘des Fresnes’, they produce hams, terrines, cured lard and as here, their own mince for sausages.
00 11 06 19
Thierry said he thinks the European Union creates too many regulations but he supports their hygiene standards, because: ‘they were ours anyway…who wants to hurt their customers?’ He laughed and said: ‘you know, we French create the laws and then do what we want.’
00 11 22 15
Since they opened their own farm shop the profits are kept within the family business generating finance for re-investment.
00 11 29 01
They continue to make roasted stuffed suckling piglet, a speciality for celebrations.
00 11 41 15
Thierry survives because he makes and controls the sale of a desirable high quality food, an alternative to mass produced fodder.
00 11 54 17
At the busy Panier de Salade in the centre of the old quarter, basic Lyonnais recipes are cooked in the tiny kitchen.
00 12 06 09
Chef Lyonel and his staff work with speed and agility to best utilise the hobs and limited space.
00 12 15 24
Recipes that once were made of fresh local produce are now made from tins and cartons. Time, staff and size of kitchen makes it impossible to do otherwise.
00 12 36 16
But his veal fried in butter, finished with cream and mushrooms, a combination of proteins and fats rich enough to seduce any ambitious eater, is in demand.
00 12 50 03
And he still makes Le tablier De sapeur or ‘The Fireman’s Apron’, one of the outstanding regional specialities.
00 13 01 07
In the Dombe, northeast of Lyon, rivers and lakes provide a plentiful supply of carp, trout, pike and frog’s legs.
But when Cormorants became a European Union protected species, their population grew and now threatens the fish. Locals have seen that tampering with one thing in nature may destroy another.
00 13 20 14
Le Fumet de Dombe in Saint Andre’ de Corcy is a modern smokery based on principles of sustainable fishing and organic farming.
00 13 29 11
Carp, pike and imported salmon are lightly salted. They are smoked using hickory and aromatic herbs burnt by friction rather than fire.
The process, which takes up to 20 hours, delivers a subtle taste and leaves the meat firm but tender.
00 13 43 09
The existence of a local food source creates innovations in processing and develops local tastes in particular ways. This delicate balance is sustained by dedicated food processors and chefs but is swept away by invasive global corporations who are often uniformed or inconsiderate of local habits. This is where the ‘one taste fits all’ concept of global culture becomes so destructive.
Local fish specialities are found in the recipes of Le Thou, a beautiful country restaurant which has served the surrounding villages for generations.
00 14 12 21
Owner/chef Gabriel Mathieu cooks classic food of the Lyonnais which he says is more particularly of the Dombe…but he worries that new European “hygienic rules mean some traditional recipes and ingredients border on illegality.
00 14 27 01
He speaks (text): “Before we used to buy cheese at the farms, We cant anymore because of all the rule …you don’t have the right anymore to buy a chicken at the farm.”
00 15 09 08
With Lyon and the Rhone Valley below, Renee and Latifa get married in the sober elegance of the village church.
00 15 40 10
The celebration which follows, a mix of various states of sobriety is created with the help of local food and wine and another region’s champagne.
00 15 56 18
The wealth of the Lyonnais fizzes from each bottle as the importance of drink and food is in constant display.
00 16 21 08
The Rhone river is swollen by the Saone which joins it in Lyon. Further south it irrigates fertile soil whose richness is enhanced by a perfect climate for agriculture. Since Ancient Rome, control of this region has been coveted by successive empires.
00 16 42 22
Pascal Humann, part owner and manager of the Hotellerie Beau Rivage of Condrieu inspects local hothouse produce which is central to the refined output of the hotel’s Partner and chef Reynald Donet .
00 17 07 03
A Michelin starred chef, with respect for local ingredients and the environment, Reynald said:
00 17 12 12
He speaks: “I think the Lyonnais chef is responsible to the people who make the produce.”
00 17 20 09
This attitude joins the chef to the supplier, the city to the country.
00 17 24 08
Sunday lunch is about to begin. The trainee and young chefs wait for the orders. Reynald watches and worries.
00 17 47 17
As in many kitchens there is an almost military discipline, a precision of skills and hierarchal relations to be obeyed.
00 18 00 07
Techniques, the senses, worrying and fussing play their roll in the kitchen’s output.
00 18 19 10
He speaks (text): “On Sunday my two brothers when to hunt with my father…but I didn’t like the hunt…I stayed alone Sunday mornings with my mother and naturally I worked in the kitchen with her…and that’s how I learned the tastes of the kitchen.”
00 18 40 13
One of the misfortunes of the new hygiene rules is that local fishermen can no longer sell directly to the chefs, which Raynald regrets.
00 18 59 0
Jean Marc Lery ran a cereal farm but when the European Union removed support for grain, Jean doubted he would survive until he began to produce a sheep’s cheese. It became celebrated by the starred chefs of Lyon… then he and his wife created a shop selling directly to the public.
00 19 19 01
This control of their own product, from growing the cereal which feeds the sheep to producing the milk and from it the cheese and selling it themselves, has allowed them to survive.
00 19 47 00
Jean still runs an organic mixed farm but the main income is from the production of the now varied cheeses.
00 19 57 03
After the milk sets as curds in these moulds they are extracted and left to dry in exactly the right temperature and humidity.
00 20 19 10
Others are rubbed with white wine to form a protective skin and then left to mature.
00 20 26 17
This bloom is judged for colour and texture as well as measured chemically to be certain it is of the right composition.
00 20 41 22
They produce a type of camembert and other soft, hard, matured and young cheeses of various sizes and shapes.
The interaction between the farmers and the chefs, the country and the city maintain traditions and feed the local economy.
00 20 5 18
Jean Christophe Ansenay, one of the stars of the new Lyonnais cuisine, shops at Lyon’s les Halles, a gourmet’s paradise. He said he can not resist the perfumes and colours of the Moroccan kitchen.
Crab’s claws, aromatic spices, prawns in flavoured oils, it is a world of perfume and colour he fuses with his refined cookery.
00 21 21 05
These stall holders either produce their own foods or choose the very best of the region and are experts on what they sell. But what is a food region: a country, a county, areas bound by topography or an area of a certain size?
00 21 41 17
On the Ile Barbe in the Saone River is Jean Christophe’s idyllic retreat: the Hotellerie De L’ile
00 21 57 05
His kitchen is quiet, ordered; his staff work with the precision of jewellers. He is a master of delicacy and care.
00 22 12 22
He teaches by doing, his young staff learn by watching.
00 22 22 04
There is something of the Zen master.
00 22 29 13
Reduced stocks, hand picked ingredients which are seasonal and mostly regional or French combined, with his love of cooking create clear deep flavours, surprising and refreshing.
00 22 48 15
He speaks: “All those Zen things, because in the kitchen there’s no shouting, no crying, we try to do something very regular and very calm and professional.”
00 23 07 08
For the eye, for the taste and for the wit: A pool of sauce, a slice of fish and its skin fried and placed as a fin…
00 23 14 19
He speaks:“If your are travelling you can see that now near all the city centres are the same….”
00 23 28 13
He speaks: “For me when I travel it is of course to discover the countries but it’s also to look at people, and look at the way they work in the kitchen and the way they feed themselves.”
00 23 45 04
His clientele eat and make aerospace deals, drink and talk about bridge building while in the kitchen Jean Christophe concerns himself with how best to produce an even more exquisite take on something:
00 23 56 10
He speaks: “You know what is important is too have a very thick piece of liver because usually liver is something very thin and just near burned and when you slice it thick and you cook it slowly, just like fois gras its something totally different.”
O0 24 18 02
He piles a confit of shallots cooked in red wine onto the liver.
00 24 39 18
He speaks: “So this is a Lyonnais size. We have a saying in Lyon: On our jobs we do our best, but it’s at the table we force ourselves!”
00 25 03 20
He speaks: “I am trying to do my best, that’s great, after all the other things are something different, its about ego and things like but the most important is that I am a cook so I need to cook the best I can,,, that’s my way.”
For the last two generations more people have lived in cities than in the country. Disconnected from the land, people lose food and other cultural traditions.
00 00 42 16
For many their daily bread and most experiences come pre-packaged or delivered over fast food counters, products of corporate control.
00 00 51 14
Early morning, people rest after the reveries and before the homogenised world of shops, music, logos and food again bursts into commercial life- a life which further displaces urban people from their roots.
00 01 16 01
In this episode we go to the French culinary capital, Lyon, surrounded by vine laden hills and fish filled lakes.
00 01 34 14
Lyon is an exceptional city, rich with speciality food shops, Michelin starred restaurants and over 40 farmer’s markets, like this one -a place where the country enters the city.
00 01 46 03
As families leave the land and women leave the home for paid jobs, cookery has suffered.
00 01 56 20
But for some French people their cuisine, as their strawberries, remains the world’s best.
00 02 03 12
Early 20th century: merchants enriched the city but could no longer afford staff. Unemployed women cooks established ‘bouchon’-cafes with their ‘cooking of the grandmothers’.
00 02 16 11
In the Bouchon de L’Abie Rouge, Madame Huguette sautés mixed field mushrooms, a local delicacy.
00 02 27 23
The Lyonnais take pleasure in her regional dishes and their long lunches.
00 02 37 10
Between Madame Huguette and Marie, they create a cordial atmosphere: a delicious humanity of food, generosity and pleasure.
00 02 46 00
Madame Huguette speaks: ‘I work from 7:30 am until 7:45pm; for the day it’s …’
00 02 55 11
Good wine is so enjoyed, locals boast that the rivers Rhone and Saone flow into Lyon but a river of wine flows out of the city.
Oo o3 o8 24
As the silk industry disintegrated, farmers turned to the vineyards for survival.
00 03 14 12
Soon Beaujolais wines attained recognition equalling Bourgogne and Bordeaux, then the recognised centres of French viniculture.
00 03 26 13
On this estate, the Saint Cyr family utilise sustainable production techniques for their wines.
00 03 35 17
Recently they were awarded ‘Farmer of the Year’ for their efforts to preserve the equilibrium of the soil, limit their use of chemicals, preserve the water quality and provide traceability to the individual vine.
00 03 55 17
Attached to their cave is a small cafe where urban people often come to celebrate with local food and wines. This re-connects city dweller’s to the countryside.
00 04 23 11
France is a country divided by the butter of the north and the olive oil of the south. This diversity gives rise to the concept of terroir: the qualities of a particular soil, weather, flora and fauna…which feeds and gives identity to local urban centers.
00 04 43 09
Lyon has more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world, as two star chef Nicholas Le Bec’s restaurant in Lyon’s old quarter.
00 04 52 06
A star is gained through invention bound within the laws of the classic cuisine.
00 04 57 07
Le Bec speaks: “You should pay more attention to that…it’s inedible. It’s here, here, here…”
Oo05 03 23
A star is lost through inattention and inconsistency.
01 05 11 17
Le Bec speaks: We make this sauce everyday…
00 05 14 04
The celebrity system and huge investments place a strain on the chefs.
00 05 28 08
This is food as art with ingredients transformed into eye-candy, something which critics often celebrate and wealthy patrons esteem.
00 05 40 11
Le Bec speaks: “It’s a ***no?…”
00 05 41 07
Frog’s legs, asparagus, fresh herbs, exotic fruits;
fine ingredients from around the globe and with them food miles which pollute the atmosphere.
00 05 43 06
Le Bec speaks: “It’s not possible…not possible…”
00 05 29 19
Chef’s train at their mother’s stove, in colleges or sometimes they’re
self- taught. Their mentors lead them to the doorstep of their own imaginations……
00 06 01 10
Le Bec speaks: “You would have the skills but you don’t have the means…”
00 06 06 13
…but for their morality, disposition and imagination…they must assume self-responsibility.
00 06 22 09
This dish of local frog’s legs with a pea risotto fuses regional with Italian ideas and reveals that Le Bec embraces a broader European culture while turning away from traditional Lyonnais style.
Oo 06 38 12
He learned his cookery as a patisserie chef, the most scientific and least forgiving of specialities; one which prepares the person for repeatable production as this custard tart with sugared biscuits.
O0 07 03 13
Outside the calm of his dining room a dispute rumbles amongst the Lyonnais chefs: do you create a cuisine based on local ingredients or not?
00 07 11 08
Le Bec speaks: ‘As far as the products are concerned they come from everywhere in France, Europe, the world. They are not only from the Lyonnais. But from Europe or the world. This is not your usual starting point but its fine.’
00 07 46 18
Wheat from the surrounding hills provide Maison Jocteur it’s central ingredient for its wonderful breads, said to be the best in Lyon.
00 08 07 03
Under Phillipe Jocteur, apprentices and young bakers service the city’s restaurants as well as local shoppers.
Phillipe re-invigorated local bread traditions in the mid 1960’s and with this he captured the heart of the Lyonnais.
00 08 23 04
He insists that traditional methods, ingredients and time must be used to create his delicious varieties as here in the making of the classic baguette.
00 08 46 20
After the dough is mixed, it is left to rise and then it is formed into the appropriate shape as baguette, loaf or rolls. These then rest to develop more complex flavors and finally they are baked.
00 09 12 18
An apprentice slices rolls to be stuffed with meats and cheese for the passing lunch and snack trade while others prepare local cakes and patisserie, as this raspberry tartin.
00 09 25 06
Paul Bocuse, the father of contemporary Lyonnais cooking, said of Phillipe’s methods:
"For me they are a model of professionalism, of success. They remain very simple and are constant! "
00 09 56 18
Crusty warm rolls, delicious white loaves, mixed flour breads of the countryside emerge from the hot ovens, filling the bakery with the perfume of wheat, rye and corn, mingling with baked sugar and nuts…
00 10 21 00
Back in the terroir, the Geoffray family use as few chemicals as possible to raise their pigs which are kept in this shed for their entire lives.
00 10 37 07
To survive in a world of giant corporate buyers, the family realised it had to convert their animals into products sold directly to the consumer.
00 10 50 19
At their Charcuterie Fermiere ‘des Fresnes’, they produce hams, terrines, cured lard and as here, their own mince for sausages.
00 11 06 19
Thierry said he thinks the European Union creates too many regulations but he supports their hygiene standards, because: ‘they were ours anyway…who wants to hurt their customers?’ He laughed and said: ‘you know, we French create the laws and then do what we want.’
00 11 22 15
Since they opened their own farm shop the profits are kept within the family business generating finance for re-investment.
00 11 29 01
They continue to make roasted stuffed suckling piglet, a speciality for celebrations.
00 11 41 15
Thierry survives because he makes and controls the sale of a desirable high quality food, an alternative to mass produced fodder.
00 11 54 17
At the busy Panier de Salade in the centre of the old quarter, basic Lyonnais recipes are cooked in the tiny kitchen.
00 12 06 09
Chef Lyonel and his staff work with speed and agility to best utilise the hobs and limited space.
00 12 15 24
Recipes that once were made of fresh local produce are now made from tins and cartons. Time, staff and size of kitchen makes it impossible to do otherwise.
00 12 36 16
But his veal fried in butter, finished with cream and mushrooms, a combination of proteins and fats rich enough to seduce any ambitious eater, is in demand.
00 12 50 03
And he still makes Le tablier De sapeur or ‘The Fireman’s Apron’, one of the outstanding regional specialities.
00 13 01 07
In the Dombe, northeast of Lyon, rivers and lakes provide a plentiful supply of carp, trout, pike and frog’s legs.
But when Cormorants became a European Union protected species, their population grew and now threatens the fish. Locals have seen that tampering with one thing in nature may destroy another.
00 13 20 14
Le Fumet de Dombe in Saint Andre’ de Corcy is a modern smokery based on principles of sustainable fishing and organic farming.
00 13 29 11
Carp, pike and imported salmon are lightly salted. They are smoked using hickory and aromatic herbs burnt by friction rather than fire.
The process, which takes up to 20 hours, delivers a subtle taste and leaves the meat firm but tender.
00 13 43 09
The existence of a local food source creates innovations in processing and develops local tastes in particular ways. This delicate balance is sustained by dedicated food processors and chefs but is swept away by invasive global corporations who are often uniformed or inconsiderate of local habits. This is where the ‘one taste fits all’ concept of global culture becomes so destructive.
Local fish specialities are found in the recipes of Le Thou, a beautiful country restaurant which has served the surrounding villages for generations.
00 14 12 21
Owner/chef Gabriel Mathieu cooks classic food of the Lyonnais which he says is more particularly of the Dombe…but he worries that new European “hygienic rules mean some traditional recipes and ingredients border on illegality.
00 14 27 01
He speaks (text): “Before we used to buy cheese at the farms, We cant anymore because of all the rule …you don’t have the right anymore to buy a chicken at the farm.”
00 15 09 08
With Lyon and the Rhone Valley below, Renee and Latifa get married in the sober elegance of the village church.
00 15 40 10
The celebration which follows, a mix of various states of sobriety is created with the help of local food and wine and another region’s champagne.
00 15 56 18
The wealth of the Lyonnais fizzes from each bottle as the importance of drink and food is in constant display.
00 16 21 08
The Rhone river is swollen by the Saone which joins it in Lyon. Further south it irrigates fertile soil whose richness is enhanced by a perfect climate for agriculture. Since Ancient Rome, control of this region has been coveted by successive empires.
00 16 42 22
Pascal Humann, part owner and manager of the Hotellerie Beau Rivage of Condrieu inspects local hothouse produce which is central to the refined output of the hotel’s Partner and chef Reynald Donet .
00 17 07 03
A Michelin starred chef, with respect for local ingredients and the environment, Reynald said:
00 17 12 12
He speaks: “I think the Lyonnais chef is responsible to the people who make the produce.”
00 17 20 09
This attitude joins the chef to the supplier, the city to the country.
00 17 24 08
Sunday lunch is about to begin. The trainee and young chefs wait for the orders. Reynald watches and worries.
00 17 47 17
As in many kitchens there is an almost military discipline, a precision of skills and hierarchal relations to be obeyed.
00 18 00 07
Techniques, the senses, worrying and fussing play their roll in the kitchen’s output.
00 18 19 10
He speaks (text): “On Sunday my two brothers when to hunt with my father…but I didn’t like the hunt…I stayed alone Sunday mornings with my mother and naturally I worked in the kitchen with her…and that’s how I learned the tastes of the kitchen.”
00 18 40 13
One of the misfortunes of the new hygiene rules is that local fishermen can no longer sell directly to the chefs, which Raynald regrets.
00 18 59 0
Jean Marc Lery ran a cereal farm but when the European Union removed support for grain, Jean doubted he would survive until he began to produce a sheep’s cheese. It became celebrated by the starred chefs of Lyon… then he and his wife created a shop selling directly to the public.
00 19 19 01
This control of their own product, from growing the cereal which feeds the sheep to producing the milk and from it the cheese and selling it themselves, has allowed them to survive.
00 19 47 00
Jean still runs an organic mixed farm but the main income is from the production of the now varied cheeses.
00 19 57 03
After the milk sets as curds in these moulds they are extracted and left to dry in exactly the right temperature and humidity.
00 20 19 10
Others are rubbed with white wine to form a protective skin and then left to mature.
00 20 26 17
This bloom is judged for colour and texture as well as measured chemically to be certain it is of the right composition.
00 20 41 22
They produce a type of camembert and other soft, hard, matured and young cheeses of various sizes and shapes.
The interaction between the farmers and the chefs, the country and the city maintain traditions and feed the local economy.
00 20 5 18
Jean Christophe Ansenay, one of the stars of the new Lyonnais cuisine, shops at Lyon’s les Halles, a gourmet’s paradise. He said he can not resist the perfumes and colours of the Moroccan kitchen.
Crab’s claws, aromatic spices, prawns in flavoured oils, it is a world of perfume and colour he fuses with his refined cookery.
00 21 21 05
These stall holders either produce their own foods or choose the very best of the region and are experts on what they sell. But what is a food region: a country, a county, areas bound by topography or an area of a certain size?
00 21 41 17
On the Ile Barbe in the Saone River is Jean Christophe’s idyllic retreat: the Hotellerie De L’ile
00 21 57 05
His kitchen is quiet, ordered; his staff work with the precision of jewellers. He is a master of delicacy and care.
00 22 12 22
He teaches by doing, his young staff learn by watching.
00 22 22 04
There is something of the Zen master.
00 22 29 13
Reduced stocks, hand picked ingredients which are seasonal and mostly regional or French combined, with his love of cooking create clear deep flavours, surprising and refreshing.
00 22 48 15
He speaks: “All those Zen things, because in the kitchen there’s no shouting, no crying, we try to do something very regular and very calm and professional.”
00 23 07 08
For the eye, for the taste and for the wit: A pool of sauce, a slice of fish and its skin fried and placed as a fin…
00 23 14 19
He speaks:“If your are travelling you can see that now near all the city centres are the same….”
00 23 28 13
He speaks: “For me when I travel it is of course to discover the countries but it’s also to look at people, and look at the way they work in the kitchen and the way they feed themselves.”
00 23 45 04
His clientele eat and make aerospace deals, drink and talk about bridge building while in the kitchen Jean Christophe concerns himself with how best to produce an even more exquisite take on something:
00 23 56 10
He speaks: “You know what is important is too have a very thick piece of liver because usually liver is something very thin and just near burned and when you slice it thick and you cook it slowly, just like fois gras its something totally different.”
O0 24 18 02
He piles a confit of shallots cooked in red wine onto the liver.
00 24 39 18
He speaks: “So this is a Lyonnais size. We have a saying in Lyon: On our jobs we do our best, but it’s at the table we force ourselves!”
00 25 03 20
He speaks: “I am trying to do my best, that’s great, after all the other things are something different, its about ego and things like but the most important is that I am a cook so I need to cook the best I can,,, that’s my way.”