01 00 17 05
October, sunset across the largest grassland in Europe, where for centuries different cultures and species co-existed with each other.
01 00 31 24
From this earth hundreds of generations have been fed. The mixture of animals, fruits, vegetables and arable plants maintained a harmony.
01 00 44 11
The soil and rivers provided an abundance of food until the end of the Second World War.
01 00 53 13
After destruction by war came destruction by pride.
01 00 58 13
In this episode we go to eastern Hungary’s vast grasslands or steppes called the Putza, at the crossroads between eastern and western Europe.
01 01 08 20
The now fallen communist government imposed upon the area, rice, a foreign crop. They flooded the land and drenched it with agrochemicals…but the rice failed. The historic cattle, sheep and pig populations were destroyed; the authorities encouraged farmers to kill wild fowl and migrating birds.
01 01 29 16
Today with help from official bodies, the rare Hungarian Grey Cow is being restocked, the entire plain is being turned to organic farming, and rivers, once poisoned by chemical waste, are returning to life.
01 01 43 18
In the middle of the plain is this 13 arch bridge, the Hatobagy Putsza and next to it is one of a series of Czarda or inns, which were placed a day’s ride apart.
01 01 55 05
Burai Zenekar, a Roma band, fills the inn with their music, reminiscent of their past migration from India.
01 02 04 16
In the kitchen, Istvan Szekely prepares a classic Hungarian paprikas or ragout.
This is a strong dish made with lean veal intensified with onions cooked in lard as a rich base.
01 02 18 06
Hungarian cooking is distinguished by the use of one of the many strengths of Hungarian peppers ground into a paprika.
01 02 30 03
Veal is added and cooked with herbs and other spices including garlic.
01 02 38 10
A less intense green pepper is chopped and added to layer the flavours.
01 02 49 10
It is served with sour cream, another typical ingredient of the local cookery and the raw pepper rings.
01 03 07 23
Committed to the idea that the historical balance of animals created a sustainable environment, the original Racka (razka) sheep are being re-introduced.
01 03 16 16
Although the sheep are naturally reared, the manager said they can only sell the meat as if industrially farmed. Supermarkets won’t pay the premium.
01 03 40 15
It’s also an area of wild horses and extraordinary horsemen who look after, round up and train the wild herds.
01 03 49 16
While the shepherds follow their animals on foot as much as 30 kilometres a day because climate change is reducing grass growth, the cowboys use their advantage of speed to chase the wild horses.
01 04 09 06
The horsemen may chase herds too far to return home at night.
01 04 14 23
For this reason, over the centuries they have built enclosures which protect them from the relentless wind, allowing them to cook their Gulyas.
01 04 25 06
They carry what they need; a pot, pork fat, onions, salt and dried beans.
01 04 32 22
They proudly wear a birds feather which symbolizes their freedom to roam…
01 04 43 01
Imre Nagy (Naj) salts the stew as his beans soak.
01 04 50 13
Once the onions have softened, it’s time to add the ever present smoky paprika.
01 05 03 02
Veal is added, then beans with water.
01 05 18 11
As the stew cooks he adds sharper spices:
01 05 21 16
…hot dried pepper, turmeric and black pepper.
01 05 30 12
The season’s root vegetables are also cooked in.
01 05 44 19
This meal-in-a-pot has an egg and flour dough dropped in.
01 05 26 20
These gnocchi or nokedli cook until softened.
01 06 13 21
The rider took the pot to the local farm to share with his comrades.
01 06 37 00
With thick slices of bread and glasses of the warming fruit brandy called Palinka they feast.
01 06 57 03
This is a living tradition …these men work the land.
01 07 04 23
Out on the plain is one of the new organic farms which are restoring the herds of indigenous Mangalica (mongoliza pigs, Racka (razka) sheep and goats. .
01 07 39 15
There are still signs of the Communist’s failed attempt to flood the land for rice.
01 07 52 17
On the Pusza borders, farmers use fertilizers and pesticides as in most European agriculture…but they are realizing that although converting to organic production reduces their yield, money saved from not purchasing expensive agrochemicals leaves a profit.
01 08 15 07
On this organic vegetable farm, Peter Rózsa (Rowsha) is proud of his success which he says comes from nurturing the soil with natural matter.
01 08 26 15
In his carrot fields, using traditional pre-chemical techniques: rotating crops, planting flowers and herbs to discourage pests or to encourage their predators and carefully mixing varieties to insure against disease, he obtains a huge crop.
01 08 47 02
The carrots are large and sweet and unlike those industrially grown, once washed even their skins can be eaten.
01 09 13 03
Peter’s fields are filled with bursting cabbages and poly tunnels with end-of-season peppers of different sizes, varieties and strength from sweet to fiery.
01 09 25 06
Many are results of his constant experimenting.
01 09 30 10
Near by is Tisza-Lake (Tisza-tó).with its profusion of wild grasses surrounding the myriad waterways now an area for recreation and sport.
01 09 43 18
Thanks to the enlightened policy of the Pusza management’s conversion to ecological principals, wildlife and fowl have returned to the area, a refuge for migrating birds.
01 09 55 20
Attila Sarvari explains how, until the Second World War, farmers worked their arable fields naturally which left the water healthy enough for them to supplement their food with a profusion of fish.
01 10 08 01
In Attila and his brother Zsolt Sarvari’s Inn, Marika Töröcsik prepares a traditional breakfast.
01 10 20 07
She cuts and fries rendered smoked pork lard.
01 10 27 03
She slices a spicy sausage and fries it with onions.
01 10 31 09
As there is little money around, people eat local natural produce. Unlike in areas dominated by supermarkets with their processed foods, people of all ages are strong and fit, with no apparent obesity.
01 10 46 08
Organic eggs are beaten and cooked in the mix.
01 10 57 02
When they set, this rich cold weather breakfast is sprinkled with a strong but sweet paprika.
01 11 15 14
Down the river János Koncsik travels to his fishing nets.
01 11 35 01
He finds the guide rope with a hook and expectantly pulls the net out.
01 11 44 18
No fish in this one..
01 12 01 18
He lays it out again and travels to his next one.
01 12 15 16
He hopes and …
01 12 23 21
…a big catfish to join the carp he has pulled from other nets.
01 12 27 23
The Tisza was poisoned several years ago by a gold mine which leached chemicals into the river upstream in Romania.
This disrupted the ecology of the river and the well being of the fishing community for several years but now the river is coming back to life.
01 12 56 03
István Lcsei, a national Sumo champion, is employed by János to oversee the cleaning and distribution of the catch.
01 13 21 01
Later they gather ingredients, including a part of the catch, for a stew to share with their friends.
01 13 42 04
Peppers are added to onions and garlic in the cooking water.
01 13 54 17
István spoons in a very hot paprika sauce…
01 13 59 24
…and investigates the livers and other offal to be added…
01 14 26 17
The Paprika is as lively as the discussions…everyone has an opinion, a story and a joke to share.
01 14 59 01
More salt, more cooking and finally it’s ready.
01 15 18 02
István Lörinez, the local ranger explains how the river’s poisoning destroyed the finely balanced ecology of the surrounding plain…he said when you work against nature you are bound to eventually fail as these empty fish ponds reveal, once used to spawn carp.
01 15 35 05
Behind an embankment, which now controls the river’s annual flooding, are fields of maize and groves of fruit trees.
01 15 42 07
Mr and Mr Jozsef Barát harvest their pear crop although because of cheap imports they can sell very little. They use the rest for preserves or for brewing palinka, the local fruit brandy.
01 15 56 05
The rich earth, flooded by the river, produces up to 600 kilos of pears from each tree and in the area there are 454 types of pear and 540 types of apple.
01 16 38 09
In these tubs farmer’s fruits ferment while waiting to be distilled into Palinka.
01 16 47 19
80 year old Andreas To’th runs the operation on his own.
01 17 05 22
The apples, apricots, cherries and other mixed fruits are cooked and the steam is cooled and condensed in pipes resulting in a clear powerful liquor.
01 17 20 17
He said: “We need the dream that Palinka induces because sometimes we have to forget the problems of everyday life…”
01 17 27 18
Andrea constantly appraises the odour, taste and clarity.
01 17 46 17
He checks the specific gravity and searches tables for the translation of the gravity into alcoholic content.
01 18 00 13
In the bread oven the wood heats the stones watched over by Uncle Balasz Gregor.
01 18 06 14
In the old kitchen Eva Sziráki prepares cholla buns or broom cakes from a yeasty dough.
01 18 12 07
She forms a number of shapes wrapped around sticks of broom wood…
01 18 40 18
…or made into packets holding their own plum jam called Lekvaros Bukta.
01 19 04 06
After they are coated with sugar, Uncle Balasz oversees the baking.
01 19 30 01
His daughter Elizabeth prepares Pogácsa, a pastry mixed with grated cheese.
01 19 52 05
She coats the pieces with a cheese and paprika sauce as her husband admiringly watches.
01 19 58 03
Elizabeth covers them with more cheese and again Uncle Balasz oversees their baking.
01 20 13 17
The celebration is coming together.
01 20 20 20
6 AM, people gather with the local butchers and the family to help slaughter their autumn pig.
01 20 31 24
Glasses of palinka are passed out along with the cheese Pogácsa to warm and fortify the participants.
01 20 39 16
This slaughtering is ritualistic…
01 20 42 20
…and a celebration of continuity soon to be threatened by new European Union hygiene regulations.
59 20
The carcass is burnt to sterilize and clean it of bristle
01 21 17 02
The World Health Organization has noted that in areas where processed foods begin to be sold, food related diseases increase. In areas like this village, the food related diseases of obesity, diabetes and heart disease are lower.
01 21 31 23
EU laws are concerned with hygiene, but as a butcher said; “trial and error over centuries has shown us how not to hurt our customers.”
01 21 44 01
As the butchers work outside, inside the kitchen cabbage is stuffed with fresh pork.
01 21 57 03
The pig’s blood is fried with onions as a pudding for breakfast.
01 22 04 24
The rolled cabbage is taken out to cook over the fire.
01 22 13 02
The butchers and local helpers mince meat for the sausages.
01 22 27 14
The work is complicated: all of the animal will be used.
01 22 32 06
Some fat is rendered into salted or smoked bacon.
01 22 36 23
The offal is boiled for a black pudding.
01 22 45 20
The less tender parts of the meat are used for paprika spiced sausages whose taste is critically appraised.
01 23 05 14
The first sausages are stuffed into their casings.
01 23 14 14
Some fatty parts are boiled and spiked with chopped garlic to be preserved.
01 23 41 00
Cooked offal, along with some blood, is ground and added to a mix of rice and spice.
01 23 55 01
It is stuffed into the gut and pricked to release the fat.
01 24 06 01
While the stuffed cabbage cooks, Uncle Balasz drains the cooked skin or crackling from the fat and strains the rest to be stored for use all year.
01 24 20 20
Now the cabbage is critically appraised.
01 24 46 01
At midday local mayors and the family settle down to a celebration lunch.
01 24 58 14
Zoltan Gencsi, the manager overseeing the transformation of the Puzta back to its original organic state said: ‘you can only ask the earth to give what it does naturally, anymore and you destroy it’…the fallen communist government poisoned the earth, attempted to straighten the river bank, to flood the grasslands and plant alien crops…they failed.
Final text quote:
Without good farming there can be no good food
and without good food there can be no good life.
Alice Waters (American Chef)
1906
October, sunset across the largest grassland in Europe, where for centuries different cultures and species co-existed with each other.
01 00 31 24
From this earth hundreds of generations have been fed. The mixture of animals, fruits, vegetables and arable plants maintained a harmony.
01 00 44 11
The soil and rivers provided an abundance of food until the end of the Second World War.
01 00 53 13
After destruction by war came destruction by pride.
01 00 58 13
In this episode we go to eastern Hungary’s vast grasslands or steppes called the Putza, at the crossroads between eastern and western Europe.
01 01 08 20
The now fallen communist government imposed upon the area, rice, a foreign crop. They flooded the land and drenched it with agrochemicals…but the rice failed. The historic cattle, sheep and pig populations were destroyed; the authorities encouraged farmers to kill wild fowl and migrating birds.
01 01 29 16
Today with help from official bodies, the rare Hungarian Grey Cow is being restocked, the entire plain is being turned to organic farming, and rivers, once poisoned by chemical waste, are returning to life.
01 01 43 18
In the middle of the plain is this 13 arch bridge, the Hatobagy Putsza and next to it is one of a series of Czarda or inns, which were placed a day’s ride apart.
01 01 55 05
Burai Zenekar, a Roma band, fills the inn with their music, reminiscent of their past migration from India.
01 02 04 16
In the kitchen, Istvan Szekely prepares a classic Hungarian paprikas or ragout.
This is a strong dish made with lean veal intensified with onions cooked in lard as a rich base.
01 02 18 06
Hungarian cooking is distinguished by the use of one of the many strengths of Hungarian peppers ground into a paprika.
01 02 30 03
Veal is added and cooked with herbs and other spices including garlic.
01 02 38 10
A less intense green pepper is chopped and added to layer the flavours.
01 02 49 10
It is served with sour cream, another typical ingredient of the local cookery and the raw pepper rings.
01 03 07 23
Committed to the idea that the historical balance of animals created a sustainable environment, the original Racka (razka) sheep are being re-introduced.
01 03 16 16
Although the sheep are naturally reared, the manager said they can only sell the meat as if industrially farmed. Supermarkets won’t pay the premium.
01 03 40 15
It’s also an area of wild horses and extraordinary horsemen who look after, round up and train the wild herds.
01 03 49 16
While the shepherds follow their animals on foot as much as 30 kilometres a day because climate change is reducing grass growth, the cowboys use their advantage of speed to chase the wild horses.
01 04 09 06
The horsemen may chase herds too far to return home at night.
01 04 14 23
For this reason, over the centuries they have built enclosures which protect them from the relentless wind, allowing them to cook their Gulyas.
01 04 25 06
They carry what they need; a pot, pork fat, onions, salt and dried beans.
01 04 32 22
They proudly wear a birds feather which symbolizes their freedom to roam…
01 04 43 01
Imre Nagy (Naj) salts the stew as his beans soak.
01 04 50 13
Once the onions have softened, it’s time to add the ever present smoky paprika.
01 05 03 02
Veal is added, then beans with water.
01 05 18 11
As the stew cooks he adds sharper spices:
01 05 21 16
…hot dried pepper, turmeric and black pepper.
01 05 30 12
The season’s root vegetables are also cooked in.
01 05 44 19
This meal-in-a-pot has an egg and flour dough dropped in.
01 05 26 20
These gnocchi or nokedli cook until softened.
01 06 13 21
The rider took the pot to the local farm to share with his comrades.
01 06 37 00
With thick slices of bread and glasses of the warming fruit brandy called Palinka they feast.
01 06 57 03
This is a living tradition …these men work the land.
01 07 04 23
Out on the plain is one of the new organic farms which are restoring the herds of indigenous Mangalica (mongoliza pigs, Racka (razka) sheep and goats. .
01 07 39 15
There are still signs of the Communist’s failed attempt to flood the land for rice.
01 07 52 17
On the Pusza borders, farmers use fertilizers and pesticides as in most European agriculture…but they are realizing that although converting to organic production reduces their yield, money saved from not purchasing expensive agrochemicals leaves a profit.
01 08 15 07
On this organic vegetable farm, Peter Rózsa (Rowsha) is proud of his success which he says comes from nurturing the soil with natural matter.
01 08 26 15
In his carrot fields, using traditional pre-chemical techniques: rotating crops, planting flowers and herbs to discourage pests or to encourage their predators and carefully mixing varieties to insure against disease, he obtains a huge crop.
01 08 47 02
The carrots are large and sweet and unlike those industrially grown, once washed even their skins can be eaten.
01 09 13 03
Peter’s fields are filled with bursting cabbages and poly tunnels with end-of-season peppers of different sizes, varieties and strength from sweet to fiery.
01 09 25 06
Many are results of his constant experimenting.
01 09 30 10
Near by is Tisza-Lake (Tisza-tó).with its profusion of wild grasses surrounding the myriad waterways now an area for recreation and sport.
01 09 43 18
Thanks to the enlightened policy of the Pusza management’s conversion to ecological principals, wildlife and fowl have returned to the area, a refuge for migrating birds.
01 09 55 20
Attila Sarvari explains how, until the Second World War, farmers worked their arable fields naturally which left the water healthy enough for them to supplement their food with a profusion of fish.
01 10 08 01
In Attila and his brother Zsolt Sarvari’s Inn, Marika Töröcsik prepares a traditional breakfast.
01 10 20 07
She cuts and fries rendered smoked pork lard.
01 10 27 03
She slices a spicy sausage and fries it with onions.
01 10 31 09
As there is little money around, people eat local natural produce. Unlike in areas dominated by supermarkets with their processed foods, people of all ages are strong and fit, with no apparent obesity.
01 10 46 08
Organic eggs are beaten and cooked in the mix.
01 10 57 02
When they set, this rich cold weather breakfast is sprinkled with a strong but sweet paprika.
01 11 15 14
Down the river János Koncsik travels to his fishing nets.
01 11 35 01
He finds the guide rope with a hook and expectantly pulls the net out.
01 11 44 18
No fish in this one..
01 12 01 18
He lays it out again and travels to his next one.
01 12 15 16
He hopes and …
01 12 23 21
…a big catfish to join the carp he has pulled from other nets.
01 12 27 23
The Tisza was poisoned several years ago by a gold mine which leached chemicals into the river upstream in Romania.
This disrupted the ecology of the river and the well being of the fishing community for several years but now the river is coming back to life.
01 12 56 03
István Lcsei, a national Sumo champion, is employed by János to oversee the cleaning and distribution of the catch.
01 13 21 01
Later they gather ingredients, including a part of the catch, for a stew to share with their friends.
01 13 42 04
Peppers are added to onions and garlic in the cooking water.
01 13 54 17
István spoons in a very hot paprika sauce…
01 13 59 24
…and investigates the livers and other offal to be added…
01 14 26 17
The Paprika is as lively as the discussions…everyone has an opinion, a story and a joke to share.
01 14 59 01
More salt, more cooking and finally it’s ready.
01 15 18 02
István Lörinez, the local ranger explains how the river’s poisoning destroyed the finely balanced ecology of the surrounding plain…he said when you work against nature you are bound to eventually fail as these empty fish ponds reveal, once used to spawn carp.
01 15 35 05
Behind an embankment, which now controls the river’s annual flooding, are fields of maize and groves of fruit trees.
01 15 42 07
Mr and Mr Jozsef Barát harvest their pear crop although because of cheap imports they can sell very little. They use the rest for preserves or for brewing palinka, the local fruit brandy.
01 15 56 05
The rich earth, flooded by the river, produces up to 600 kilos of pears from each tree and in the area there are 454 types of pear and 540 types of apple.
01 16 38 09
In these tubs farmer’s fruits ferment while waiting to be distilled into Palinka.
01 16 47 19
80 year old Andreas To’th runs the operation on his own.
01 17 05 22
The apples, apricots, cherries and other mixed fruits are cooked and the steam is cooled and condensed in pipes resulting in a clear powerful liquor.
01 17 20 17
He said: “We need the dream that Palinka induces because sometimes we have to forget the problems of everyday life…”
01 17 27 18
Andrea constantly appraises the odour, taste and clarity.
01 17 46 17
He checks the specific gravity and searches tables for the translation of the gravity into alcoholic content.
01 18 00 13
In the bread oven the wood heats the stones watched over by Uncle Balasz Gregor.
01 18 06 14
In the old kitchen Eva Sziráki prepares cholla buns or broom cakes from a yeasty dough.
01 18 12 07
She forms a number of shapes wrapped around sticks of broom wood…
01 18 40 18
…or made into packets holding their own plum jam called Lekvaros Bukta.
01 19 04 06
After they are coated with sugar, Uncle Balasz oversees the baking.
01 19 30 01
His daughter Elizabeth prepares Pogácsa, a pastry mixed with grated cheese.
01 19 52 05
She coats the pieces with a cheese and paprika sauce as her husband admiringly watches.
01 19 58 03
Elizabeth covers them with more cheese and again Uncle Balasz oversees their baking.
01 20 13 17
The celebration is coming together.
01 20 20 20
6 AM, people gather with the local butchers and the family to help slaughter their autumn pig.
01 20 31 24
Glasses of palinka are passed out along with the cheese Pogácsa to warm and fortify the participants.
01 20 39 16
This slaughtering is ritualistic…
01 20 42 20
…and a celebration of continuity soon to be threatened by new European Union hygiene regulations.
59 20
The carcass is burnt to sterilize and clean it of bristle
01 21 17 02
The World Health Organization has noted that in areas where processed foods begin to be sold, food related diseases increase. In areas like this village, the food related diseases of obesity, diabetes and heart disease are lower.
01 21 31 23
EU laws are concerned with hygiene, but as a butcher said; “trial and error over centuries has shown us how not to hurt our customers.”
01 21 44 01
As the butchers work outside, inside the kitchen cabbage is stuffed with fresh pork.
01 21 57 03
The pig’s blood is fried with onions as a pudding for breakfast.
01 22 04 24
The rolled cabbage is taken out to cook over the fire.
01 22 13 02
The butchers and local helpers mince meat for the sausages.
01 22 27 14
The work is complicated: all of the animal will be used.
01 22 32 06
Some fat is rendered into salted or smoked bacon.
01 22 36 23
The offal is boiled for a black pudding.
01 22 45 20
The less tender parts of the meat are used for paprika spiced sausages whose taste is critically appraised.
01 23 05 14
The first sausages are stuffed into their casings.
01 23 14 14
Some fatty parts are boiled and spiked with chopped garlic to be preserved.
01 23 41 00
Cooked offal, along with some blood, is ground and added to a mix of rice and spice.
01 23 55 01
It is stuffed into the gut and pricked to release the fat.
01 24 06 01
While the stuffed cabbage cooks, Uncle Balasz drains the cooked skin or crackling from the fat and strains the rest to be stored for use all year.
01 24 20 20
Now the cabbage is critically appraised.
01 24 46 01
At midday local mayors and the family settle down to a celebration lunch.
01 24 58 14
Zoltan Gencsi, the manager overseeing the transformation of the Puzta back to its original organic state said: ‘you can only ask the earth to give what it does naturally, anymore and you destroy it’…the fallen communist government poisoned the earth, attempted to straighten the river bank, to flood the grasslands and plant alien crops…they failed.
Final text quote:
Without good farming there can be no good food
and without good food there can be no good life.
Alice Waters (American Chef)
1906