Music
Palmer: The streets of Ubud are in chaos.This is a funeral for a princess. Its deliberately frantic -- the object is to ensure that the princesss spirit doesnt accidentally find its way back to earth.Even by the standards of Balis normally extravagant funerals this is extreme, befitting a woman regarded in her lifetime as a goddess.
Cokorda Maya is undergoing the kind of transformation which other girls her age can only dream about.For much of the year shes an ordinary Australian schoolgirl, boarding in Sydney, but today shes fulfilling the role she was born to -- as a Balinese princess.For all the attention and elaborate preparation though, under the make- up princess Maya is just another eleven year old with an SMS habit.And shes anxious that her Australian friends dont get the impression shes taken on royal airs and graces.
Maya: I do all the normal things Im not all princessy and stuff like being carried around, thats just spiritual for the ceremony.
I wouldnt normally be carried to go to the shops or something like that.
Palmer: Maya has come home to Bali to honour another princess, her grandmother whose life was anything but ordinary.
In fact for most the of the last century she was considered a living goddess.
Cokorda Istri Mutter was born in Ubud ninety-four years ago. Not only was she the daughter of the last true king of Ubud, but as one of mixed twins she was considered divine.Water from the twins first bath was considered so holy it was sprinkled on rice fields throughout the region.
Music
Palmer: In the months since the princess died at the royal palace its fallen to her family to organise a procession and cremation on a scale not seen in Bali for generations.
Suteja: As long as we know this is the biggest one.
I think not any more because she is the last princess of the King of Ubud.
Music
Palmer: Ubuds royal family was stripped of power after Indonesian independence, but reverence remains. Our camera is allowed inside the palace for this final act of devotion. The divine princess brought out to be bathed a ritual cleansing before the cremation that will send her spirit to the cosmos.
A Hindu high priest ministers to the partially mummified body, while courtiers dress the princess with jewelry.Among those watching this ritual are Maya and her mother.
Ibu Jero Asri: To watch the body washing and to see the love and care, Its a normal thing to be with a dead body I guess, whereas in the west its hidden away and nobody knows.
To look at her was so difficult. Ive seen a few dead bodies in my time in Bali, but touching one was a different experience.
Maya: It was nice to see her and say good bye again. I wasnt scared because I knew it was still her and that I had to say goodbye it was normal.
Palmer: The princess goddess is ready to make her great voyage back to the cosmos and she wont travel alone. In a coconut grove not far from the palace theyre bringing up the dead. Dozens of bodies, are being unearthed to the cheers of the families whod buried them years ago.
Man: This is very important because we release the body from the earth and the body can be united with the universe itself.
Palmer: The bodies are dressed for their heavenly journey, then torched -- their remains will join the princess in the last act of devotion in a few days time.
Music
Palmer: Outside the palace gates the entire village has become consumed with the rituals surrounding this cremation.Tributes pour into the town and at the heart of things the princesss nephew Prince Cokorda Gede Sukawati is overseeing an incredible engineering project .
Prince Cokorda: Its a part of our life, its a love and respect and then thanks to Mum and God, you know, for because we can create something special for our old generation.
Palmer: The centerpiece is a staggering 25 metre tower that will carry the Princesss body to the royal cremation site.
Palmer: How many people are you going to need to carry this?Prince: 180 people will carry.
Palmer: 180 men?
Prince: Yes, look at the construction all from bamboo, its a real traditional construction.
Palmer: Have you ever seen anything this big before in your lifetime?Prince: No, its the biggest one.
Palmer: With twelve tons to be supported by nothing more than bamboo, its little wonder that so much care is going into the design, especially from Prince Gede, who is required to ride at the very top of the tower as the princesss escort.
This huge tower and other floats are made to spin and weave wildly. If the spirits arent confused its feared they may find their way back to earth.
Finally the pyre is lit and the princesss soul is freed to join the universe. The end of a royal era and of a woman remembered as both human and divine.
Mother: I guess this is where modern life takes over. Maybe the old times are ending and it will be a new generation taking over. It will never be the same again I guess.
People who still have those memories and the experiences from the old times are fading out and new times are coming for the whole family, I guess.
Palmer: Theres still one last voyage to be made here for the princess and for the dozens of others cremated. Ash and water must mix to complete the ritual.
Metres from the surf theres a final prayer then, as always in Bali, everything goes back to the sea
Reporter: Tim Palmer
Camera: David Anderson
Editor: Simon Brynjolffssen
Palmer: The streets of Ubud are in chaos.This is a funeral for a princess. Its deliberately frantic -- the object is to ensure that the princesss spirit doesnt accidentally find its way back to earth.Even by the standards of Balis normally extravagant funerals this is extreme, befitting a woman regarded in her lifetime as a goddess.
Cokorda Maya is undergoing the kind of transformation which other girls her age can only dream about.For much of the year shes an ordinary Australian schoolgirl, boarding in Sydney, but today shes fulfilling the role she was born to -- as a Balinese princess.For all the attention and elaborate preparation though, under the make- up princess Maya is just another eleven year old with an SMS habit.And shes anxious that her Australian friends dont get the impression shes taken on royal airs and graces.
Maya: I do all the normal things Im not all princessy and stuff like being carried around, thats just spiritual for the ceremony.
I wouldnt normally be carried to go to the shops or something like that.
Palmer: Maya has come home to Bali to honour another princess, her grandmother whose life was anything but ordinary.
In fact for most the of the last century she was considered a living goddess.
Cokorda Istri Mutter was born in Ubud ninety-four years ago. Not only was she the daughter of the last true king of Ubud, but as one of mixed twins she was considered divine.Water from the twins first bath was considered so holy it was sprinkled on rice fields throughout the region.
Music
Palmer: In the months since the princess died at the royal palace its fallen to her family to organise a procession and cremation on a scale not seen in Bali for generations.
Suteja: As long as we know this is the biggest one.
I think not any more because she is the last princess of the King of Ubud.
Music
Palmer: Ubuds royal family was stripped of power after Indonesian independence, but reverence remains. Our camera is allowed inside the palace for this final act of devotion. The divine princess brought out to be bathed a ritual cleansing before the cremation that will send her spirit to the cosmos.
A Hindu high priest ministers to the partially mummified body, while courtiers dress the princess with jewelry.Among those watching this ritual are Maya and her mother.
Ibu Jero Asri: To watch the body washing and to see the love and care, Its a normal thing to be with a dead body I guess, whereas in the west its hidden away and nobody knows.
To look at her was so difficult. Ive seen a few dead bodies in my time in Bali, but touching one was a different experience.
Maya: It was nice to see her and say good bye again. I wasnt scared because I knew it was still her and that I had to say goodbye it was normal.
Palmer: The princess goddess is ready to make her great voyage back to the cosmos and she wont travel alone. In a coconut grove not far from the palace theyre bringing up the dead. Dozens of bodies, are being unearthed to the cheers of the families whod buried them years ago.
Man: This is very important because we release the body from the earth and the body can be united with the universe itself.
Palmer: The bodies are dressed for their heavenly journey, then torched -- their remains will join the princess in the last act of devotion in a few days time.
Music
Palmer: Outside the palace gates the entire village has become consumed with the rituals surrounding this cremation.Tributes pour into the town and at the heart of things the princesss nephew Prince Cokorda Gede Sukawati is overseeing an incredible engineering project .
Prince Cokorda: Its a part of our life, its a love and respect and then thanks to Mum and God, you know, for because we can create something special for our old generation.
Palmer: The centerpiece is a staggering 25 metre tower that will carry the Princesss body to the royal cremation site.
Palmer: How many people are you going to need to carry this?Prince: 180 people will carry.
Palmer: 180 men?
Prince: Yes, look at the construction all from bamboo, its a real traditional construction.
Palmer: Have you ever seen anything this big before in your lifetime?Prince: No, its the biggest one.
Palmer: With twelve tons to be supported by nothing more than bamboo, its little wonder that so much care is going into the design, especially from Prince Gede, who is required to ride at the very top of the tower as the princesss escort.
This huge tower and other floats are made to spin and weave wildly. If the spirits arent confused its feared they may find their way back to earth.
Finally the pyre is lit and the princesss soul is freed to join the universe. The end of a royal era and of a woman remembered as both human and divine.
Mother: I guess this is where modern life takes over. Maybe the old times are ending and it will be a new generation taking over. It will never be the same again I guess.
People who still have those memories and the experiences from the old times are fading out and new times are coming for the whole family, I guess.
Palmer: Theres still one last voyage to be made here for the princess and for the dozens of others cremated. Ash and water must mix to complete the ritual.
Metres from the surf theres a final prayer then, as always in Bali, everything goes back to the sea
Reporter: Tim Palmer
Camera: David Anderson
Editor: Simon Brynjolffssen