V/O:
THIS IS THE EMBE TSHOPO SAILING DOWN THE CONGO RIVER. ITS OUR THIRD DAY ON THE BOAT AND WE ARE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN THE CITY OF KISANGANI AND THE RIVER TOWN OF BUMBA. WERE SAILING VIRTUALLY ON THE EQUATOR, SURROUNDED BY NOTHING BUT PRISTINE RAINFOREST AND THE WORLD SECOND BIGGEST RIVER. HOWEVER WHAT STARTED OUT AS OUR QUEST TO UNDERTAKE ONE OF THE WORLDS GREAT JOURNEYS, HAS NOW TURNED INTO A STRUGGLE FOR SURVIVAL.
V/O:
MY NAME IS MICHAEL MUTOMBO. IM A CONGOLESE REFUGEE WHO LIVES AND WORKS IN JOHANNESBURG. IVE BEEN IN SOUTH AFRICA FOR MANY YEARS AND ITS NOW MY HOME. ITS ALSO HERE WHERE I RECENTLY BECAME A FATHER.
V/O:
BUT IM ON MY WAY BACK TO THE CONGO WHERE I GREW UP. I LEFT THE COUNTRY 12 YEARS AGO WHEN THE DICTATORY MOBUTO SESE SEKO WAS STILL IN POWER. MY FAMILY DECIDED TO LEAVE THE CONGO AND CAME TO SOUTH AFRICA. SINCE THEN MOBUTO HAS DIED AND NEW PRESIDENTS HAVE BEEN SWORN IN AND THERE HAS BEEN A CIVIL WAR IN WHICH THREE MILLION PEOPLE DIED.
V/O:
IM IN THE CONGO WITH A SPECIAL ASSIGNMENT TEAM. WERE HERE TO TELL THE STORY OF THE CONGO AFTER FIVE YEARS OF WAR. THERE IS A PEACE AGREEMENT IN PLACE AND LIFE IN KINSHASA SEEMS TO BE ALMOST BACK TO NORMAL.
V/O:
BUT THE CONGO REMAINS DESPERATELY POOR. THE MAJORITY OF PEOPLE ARE JOBLESS, ECONOMIC GROWTH IS SLOW AND THE CURRENCY IS ALMOST WORTHLESS.
V/O:
ON ARRIVAL, ITS TIME TO GREET FAMILY AND OLD FRIENDS MY GRANDMOTHER WHO I HAVE NOT SEEN FOR 19 YEARS AND WHO HAS IN THE MEANTIME BECOME A GREAT GRANDMOTHER.
V/O:
NOTHING SYMBOLIZES THE CONGO MORE THAN THE RIVER FROM WHICH THE COUNTRY TAKES ITS NAME. THERE ARE VIRTUALLY NO ROADS, SO THE CONGO RIVER IS THE MAIN HIGHWAY. IT CUTS THROUGH THE DRC FOR ALMOST 3 000 KILOMETRES
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
I THANK GOD FOR HAVING GIVEN US THIS RIVER WHICH IS THE SECOND BIGGEST IN THE WORLD.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
ITS THROUGH THE RIVER THAT PROSPERITY WILL COME TO THE CONGO
V/O:
NOBODY KNOWS THE CONGO RIVER AND ITS VALUE TO THE COUNTRY BETTER THAN THESE TWO MEN. DIEUDONNE MABAKA IS A CIVIL ENGINEER AND A BOAT OWNER. HE GREW UP ON THE RIVER. JEAN KASONGA IS THE DIRECTOR OF THE STATE-OWNED DEPARTMENT OF PORTS AND RIVER TRANSPORT CALLED ONATRA.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
THE RIVER ENSURES THE UNITY OF THE COUNTRY. ITS NOT FOR NOTHING THAT ITS CALLED THE CONGO THE RIVER CONGO AND THIS COUNTRY IS CALLED THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO.
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
IT FEEDS US HERE IN KINSHASA AND IT UNIFIES US IN THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO. WITHOUT THIS RIVER WE WILL NEVER BE UNITED.
V/O:
THE RIVERBOATS OF THE CONGO ARE LEGENDARY. THEY WERE IMMORTALISED MORE THAN A HUNDRED YEARS AGO BY JOSEPH CONRAD IN HIS BOOK, THE HEART OF DARKNESS. THE BELGIANS GAVE BIRTH TO THE CULTURE OF RIVER TRAVEL. EVEN TODAY, IT REMAINS VIRTUALLY THE ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORT FOR ORDINARY PEOPLE.
THE MOST FAMOUS OF THESE RIVER VOYAGES IS THE ROUTE BETWEEN KINSHASA AND KISANGANI A JOURNEY OF 1 700 KILOMETRES. IT WAS THIS ROUTE THAT WE PLANNED TO FOLLOW.
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
YES, YES, YES! A BOAT TRIP FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI IS THE LIFE I LIKE THE ATMOSPHERE YOU REALLY FEEL LIFE. NOT WITH AIRCONDITIONING... YOU REALLY FEEL LIFE. YOU SEE HOW PEOPLE FISH, BRING MAIZE, BRING A BIT OF CASAVA. YOU EAT NATURAL FOOD!
V/O:
WHY MY COUNTRY IS CALLED THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO I DONT KNOW. THERE HAS NEVER BEEN DEMOCRATIC ELECTIONS. INSTEAD, IT WAS LOOTED FOR 35 YEARS BY THE DICTATOR MOBUTO, WHO CALLED THE COUNTRY ZAIRE. THEN REBEL LEADER LAURENT KABILA CAME TO POWER IN 1997 AND CHANGED THE NAME TO THE DRC. BUT HE WAS ALSO A TYRANT. CIVIL WAR BROKE OUT IN 1998 AS REBELS FROM THE EAST ROSE UP AGAINST HIS REGIME. THE GOVERNMENT CLOSED THE RIVER THEY FEARED THAT REBELS MIGHT USE THE RIVER TO ATTACK KINSHASA. THE ECONOMY VIRTUALLY COLLAPSED.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTRIBUTE FOOD AND MANUFACTURED GOODS.
V/O:
LAURENT KABILA WAS ASSASSINATED IN HIS PALACE IN 2002 AND HIS SON JOSEPH KABILA CAME TO POWER. SOON AFTERWARDS HE SIGNED A PEACE AGREEMENT WITH FOES AND REBELS LEADERS. THERE IS NOW A TRANSITIONAL GOVERNMENT IN PLACE. AT THE END OF LAST YEAR THE RIVER WAS RE-OPENED FOR TRADE.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
VERY HAPPY VERY HAPPY WE ARRANGED THREE CONVOYS AND ONE OF THEM WENT ALL THE WAY TO KINSANGANI THE MB KAMOTO.
V/O:
ITS TIME TO LOOK FOR A BOAT TO TRANSPORT US TO KISANGANI. BUT WE DISCOVER THAT THERE ARE NO PASSENGER BOATS LEFT HERE. THE HARBOURS AND PORTS BECOME VIRTUAL GRAVEYARDS. WHERE ONCE THERE WERE 500 BOATS SAILING UP AND DOWN THE CONGOS RIVERS THERE ARE NOW LESS THAN 50.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
RIGHT NOW, BECAUSE OF THE DIFFICULTIES THAT THE COUNTRY IS GOING THROUGH, THE PASSENGER TRADE HAS VIRTUALLY STOPPED. THE BOATS ARE HERE, BUT THEY NEED TO BE OVERHAULED. WERE LEFT WITH ONLY CARGO TRANSPORT
V/O:
THE GOVERNMENT HOPES TO HAVE THESE BOATS AFLOAT WITHIN 5 YEARS.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
WHEN THESE BOATS ARE IN MOTION, ITS A FLOATING VILLAGE.
V/O:
A ONCE THRIVING INDUSTRY THAT DROVE THE CONGOLESE ECONOMY IS IN RUINS. WITH NO BOATS IN KINSHASA, WE HAVE TO HEAD NORTH-EAST TO KISANGANI WHERE WE ARE TOLD THERE ARE TWO BOATS THAT MIGHT TAKE US DOWNSTREAM BACK TO KINSHASA.
=========================AD BREAK=================
V/O:
WHEN WE GET TO KISANGANI, WE HAVE TO REPORT TO THE LOCAL IMMIGRATION OFFICE.
UPS: IMMIGRATION OFFICE EMPLOYEE
MY NAME IS I WORK HERE AT THE IMMIGRATION OFFICE. MY LIFE IS VERY DIFFICULT, 8 MONTHS AND WE CANT HAVE THE SALARY.
UPS: TAXI DRIVER
WERE GOING TOWARDS KISANGANI. THINGS ARE OKAY EXCEPT FOR THE WAR THAT REALLY MADE US SUFFER. LIFE HERE IS A BIT DIFFICULT THIS IS FORMER PRESIDENT MOBUTOS OLD RESIDENCE. IT WAS A VERY BEAUTIFUL HOUSE BUT AFTER THE WAR IT WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED.
V/O:
KISANGANI IS THE THIRD BIGGEST CITY IN THE CONGO AND WAS AT THE CENTRE OF THE CIVIL WAR. IT WAS A REBEL STRONGHOLD AND FIERCE FIGHTING RAGED IN AND AROUND THE CITY. ITS DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE THAT THIS WAS ONCE A THRIVING AND PROSPEROUS CITY.
UPS: TAXI DRIVER
A LOT OF COMPANIES HAVE CLOSED DOWN. THERES A LOT OF UNEMPLOYMENT. EVEN GOVERNMENT EMPLOYEES WHO STILL HAVE JOBS ARENT PAID.
V/O:
THERE ARE TWO BOATS PARKED IN KISANGANIS HARBOUR. THE TAXI DRIVER SAYS THE ONE HAS BEEN HERE FOR A LONG TIME AND MIGHT LEAVE SOON AGAIN. IT IS THE EMBE TSHOPO AND CONSIST OF A TUG AND TWO BARGES. ALTHOUGH CARGO BOATS ARE NOT ALLOWED OR LICENSEDTO TAKE PASSENGERS ON BOARD, NOBODY TAKES NOTICE OF THIS.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
THE BOAT WILL LEAVE HERE AT AROUND FIVE OCLOCK AND GO TO BUMBA. IT WILL TAKE AROUND 48 HOURS TO GET TO BUMBA.
V/O:
THE TSHOPO IS OLD AND RUN DOWN BUT ITS OUR ONLY OPTION TO GET ONTO THE RIVER AND BACK TO KINSHASA. WE PAY FREDDIE FIFTY DOLLARS TO DELAY THE DEPARTURE OF THE BOAT. THISLL GIVE US A CHANCE TO EXPL0RE KISANGANI AND PREPARE FOR THE JOURNEY. WHAT WE DONT KNOW, IS THAT THE TSHOPO IS NOT ABOUT TO LEAVE FOR ANOTHER WEEK.
V/O:
THE CONGO RIVER IS NAVIGATABLE UP TO KISANGANI. HERE A SERIES OF RAPIDS MAKE FURTHER RIVER BOAT TRAVEL IMPOSSIBLE. ITS AT A FISHING VILLAGE NEAR KISANGANI THAT WE MEET OGGI SAIDI. HES A LOCAL FISHERMAN, FORMER TOURIST GUIDE. HE FONDLY REMEMBERS THE DAYS WHEN THERE WERE STILL MANY TOURISTS.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
SO THE BOAT WAS THERE MOVING FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI, THE BUSINESS WAS VERY GOOD. PER DAY WE COULD RECEIVE IN THE FISHING VILLAGE ABOUT MORE THAN 50 TOURISTS. MOBUTU DID MANY THINGS GOOD IN THE COUNTRY. THERE WAS PEACE, WE DIDNT KNOW WAR ANY TROUBLE.
V/O:
DURING THE SO-CALLED SIX-DAY WAR IN 2000, MORE THAN 500 BOMBS FELL ON THE CITY.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
I WENT TO TOWN TO BUY SALT, AND I WAS SHOT TWO TIMES BUT GOD IS WITH ME I WAS NOT KILLED. SO I HAVE SEEN HOW PEOPLE WAS KILLING IN KISANGANI DURING THE WAR TIME. KISANGANI WAS A BEAUTIFUL TOWN WHERE YOU CAN FIND TWO BIG AIRPORT. WHERE YOU CAN FIND NICE HOTEL, NICE MARKET. SO AFTER THREE WARS WE HAVE HERE EVERYTHING IS FUCKED UP. NO BOATS FROM KISANGANI NO BOATS FROM KINSHASA. SO THAT TIME WE HAVE NO BIG BOAT LIKE HERE WHEN WE START SEEING THE BOAT NOW.
V/O:
OGGIS BROTHER WAS KILLED DURING THE WAR AND HIS MKOTHER FLED TO KINSHASA. HE WANTS TO SEE HER AGAIN, AND OFFERS TO ACCOMPANY US TO THE CAPITAL. HE WILL SHOW US THE WAY IF WE PAY HIS PASSAGE. WE ACCEPT, AND ASK HIM TO FIND OUT WHEN THE BOAT WILL BE LEAVING.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
WERE LEAVING TODAY IN THE AFTERNOON.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
THE DEPARTURE OF THE BOAT IS NOT TODAY OR TOMORROW, MAYBE MONDAY. IS WHAT I HEARD THIS MORNING.
V/O:
MOST OF THE PASSENGERS HAVE PAID TWO DOLLARS FOR THE VOYAGE TO BUMBA. THEY EAT AND SLEEP ON THE BOAT WHILE THEY WAIT.
UPS: PASSENGER
ITS VERY GOOD YOU COOK IT WITH OIL AND ONIONS AND EAT IT WITH BREAD
UPS: MICHAEL MUTOMBO
WHEN DOES THE BOAT LEAVE?
UPS: PASSENGER
WE WERE TOLD TO BE PATIENT. THE BOAT IS LEAVING EITHER TODAY AT AROUND FIVE OR TOMORROW MORNING.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF ALL GOES WELL IN THE AFTERNOON.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF THE BOAT DOESNT LEAVE TODAY, IT WILL TOMORROW MORNING.
UPS: PASSENGER
WELL, MY NAME IS JP AND I LIVE IN KINSHASA. I OFTEN TRAVEL LIKE THIS TO TRY AND FIND SOMETHING TO LIVE ON, OTHERWISE ITS NO GOOD. THERE IS NO EMPLOYMENT AND YOU KNOW HOW IT IS IN THIS COUNTRY. SO I HAVE TO TRY AND FIND SOME WAY TO LIVE.
V/O:
THE MARKET AROUND THE BOAT IS HOME TO MANY LOCAL DELICACIES: SNAKE, SMOKED APE, SMOKED FISH AND CROCODILE.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
TODAY IS SATURDAY RIGHT. WE HAVE A FEELING THAT THE BOAT IS NOT GOING TO LEAVE TODAY. THIS IS MY OPINION. I SEE NOTHING HAS HAPPENED.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
THE DOCUMENTS? THE CAPTAIN HAS GONE TO FETCH THEM. WERE WAITING.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF THE BOAT DOESNT LEAVE, WERE ALL GOING TO GET OFF.
V/O:
THERES A NEW PROBLEM: IMMIGRATION OFFICIALS WANT MONEY BEFORE ALLOWING THE BOAT TO LEAVE.
UPS: PASSENGER
HE MUST GET MONEY BEFORE OR IS MORE PROBLEM TO GO.
V/O:
IN THE MEANTIME, WE ARE RIPPED OFF BY SOLDIERS, POLICEMEN AND OFFICALS. DAY AFTER DAY, WE ARE ARRESTED, QUESTIONED AND FORCED TO PAY BRIBES TO PEOPLE LIKE THIS ARMY OFFICER.
SOLDIERS TELL US THAT THE LAST TIME THEY WERE PAID WAS IN MARCH. THEY RECEIVED TWELVE DOLLARS. MANY ARE DESPERATE AND DESTITUTE AND OBVIOUSLY POSE A GREAT THREAT TO PEACE AND STABILITY.
UPS: SOLDIER
THERE IS NO HELP FOR US! I CAN SHOW YOU MY INJURY. I WAS SUPPOSED TO HAVE SURGERY BUT THERE IS NO ONE TO HELP ME. THEY WANT LARGE AMOUNTS OF MONEY WHICH I DONT HAVE!
UPS: SOLDIER
OVER HERE IT DOES NOT WORK. THERES NO MOVEMENT AND ITS VERY PAINFUL. THE BULLET WENT IN HERE AND CAME OUT HERE AND BROKE MY BONES IM SUFFERING A LOT.
UPS: SOLDIER
I HAVE A WIFE AND TWO KIDS. THEY DONT HAVE ANYHTING TO EAT. AND YET, IM A SOLDIER FOR THE GOVERNMENT.
UPS: SOLDIER
WE ARE LIKE INVALIDS. WE NEED TO SORT THIS PROBLEM OUT SO THAT WE CAN BE AT PEACE AT HOME WITH OUR WIVES AND CHILDREN.
V/O:
SUNDAY MORNING. WHEN WE ARRIVE AT THE HARBOUR, THE TSHOPO IS GONE. IN THE DEAD OF THE NIGHT, FREDDIE HAS MOVED HIS BOAT TWO KILOMETRES DOWNSTREAM. HE HOPES TO ESCAPE THE GREEDY IMMIGRATION OFFICERS.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
WE LEFT THE SMALL SPEEDBOAT FOR YOU GUYS. TOMORROW MORNING. COME TOMORROW MORNING AND WE LEAVE.
UPS PASSENGER:
ITS DEFINITELY LEAVING. WE ARE GOING TO RIOT IF IT DOESNT.
V/O:
THE BOAT IS NOW MOORED IN THE SHADOW OF A ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL FAMOUS FOR A VISIT BY POPE JOHN PAUL II IN THE EIGHTIES.
FREDDIE MIGHT HAVE ESCAPED THE IMMIGRATION OFFCIALS BUT THE BOAT IS NOW DOCKED NEAR AN ARMY CAMP.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
THEY WANT MONEY TO THE PASSENGERS SO THE PASSENGERS SAY WE DONT HAVE MONEY, THEY SAY MAYBE WE BACK AGAIN AT NIGHT.
UPS: PASSENGER
THE MILITARY? YES, IF WE STAY HERE THEY WILL LOOT US!
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
MOST OF THE PASSENGERS THEY ARE SCARED THEY DONT WANT THE BOAT TO STAY HERE TODAY, THEY WANT TO GO HOME.
V/O:
FINALLY, FREDDIE TELLS US TO BOARD THE BOAT. HE HAS PAID ALL HIS DEBTS AND BRIBES AND HIS DOCUMENTS ARE IN ORDER. THERE ARE 350 PASSENGERS ON BOARD. THIS IS THE CABIN THAT FREDDIE SOLD US FOR 50 US DOLLARS.
HOWEVER, AS WE ARE ABOUT TO DEPART ONE LAST PROBLEM. THESE ARE SECURITY POLICEMEN WITH A WARRANT FOR OGGIS ARREST. THEY SAY HE FAILED TO INFORM THEM THAT HE IS WORKINGT FOR FOREIGNERS AND IS TRAVELLING TO KINSHASA. THEY CLAIM ITS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE. THERE IS NO TIME TO ARGUE.
UPS: SECURITY
ITS OVER. WE ARE GOING BACK TO THE OFFICE. WE WERE SUPPOSED TO TAKE HIM WITH US, BUT THERE IS NO MORE PROBLEM.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
IF THE IMMIGRATION OFFICER ARE NOT PAID ITS NOT MY FUCKING PROBLEM. I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY I NEED PERMISSION TO GO TO MY CAPITOL, IN KINSHASA I AM CONGOLESE. ITS UNBELIEVABLE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS COUNTRY.
==========================AD BREAK==========================
V/O:
THE TSHOPO SAILS THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT WITHOUT LIGHTS OR ANY NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT. A FEW HOURS AFTER OUR DEPARTURE, WE DISCOVER THAT OUR BARGE IS LEAKING AND CRUMBLING. HOLES IN THE HULL ARE SIMPLY SEALED WITH WOODEN WEDGES.
V/O:
THE WORST IS STILL TO COME. THE NEXT MORNING, WE DISCOVER THAT THE BOAT HAS ALREADY HAD TWO SERIOUS ACCIDENTS ON THE WAY FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
OUR BOAT WAS GOING TO CRASH ON A VERY BIG STONE AND IT MAKE A VERY BIG HOLE UNDER THE BOAT THERE. AND THE WATER STARTED TO COME INSIDE THE WATER TO MAKE US GO DOWN. THAT WAS TOO SERIOUS BUT MYSELF I AM ASTONISHED THAT NOBODY DIED. IT WAS PROTECTION FROM GOD.
V/O:
BECAUSE THEYRE OVERLAODED AND BADLY MAINTAINED, CONGOLESE BOATS HAVE A TERRIBLE SAFETY RECORD. IN NOVEMBER LAST YEAR, 160 PEOPLE DIED WHEN A BOAT SANK; IN FEBRUARY THIS YEAR ANOTHER 300 PASSENGER DIED WHEN THEIR BOAT CAPSIZED.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
THE ONE I DONT KNOW IT WAS IN 1970, NOW IT MUST BE SOMETHING LIKE 20 AND FOUR YEARS OLD. THAT IS JUST WE TOOK IT BECAUSE WE DIDNT FIND A GOOD ONE. JUST WHEN WE REACH KINSHASA WE ARE GOING TO FORGET IT, THAT ONE IS NOT TOO SAFE.
V/O:
HIS WORDS ARE HARDLY COLD. WATER IS POURING INTO ONE OF THE BARGES.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
ITS NOT SO SAFE THIS IS WHY I TELL YOU THAT WE DONT WANT TO PUT TOO MUCH PEOPLE INSIDE. THE PROBLEM IS THAT IT IS A SMALL BURGS AND IT IS OLD, ITS VERY OLD. ITS JUST BECAUSE OF THE WAR. THE WAR HAD BROKEN, THE ECONOMY. THE PROBLEM IS THAT IT IS NOT EASY TO FIND A NEW ONE. ALL THE BURGS IN THE BOATS THEY ARE ALL OLD. PEOPLE AER NOT MAKING NEW ONES.
TODAY IS TUESDAY WE REACH BUMBA TOMORROW AFTERNOON.
V/O:
AS NIGHT FALLS, THE CAPTAIN REFUSES TO STOP THE BOAT. THEN IT HITS A SANDBANK AND AN ISLAND. IT LIES LOW IN THE WATER BECAUSE OF ALL THE WATER ITS TAKEN IN.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
I COULDNT SLEEP I WAS THINKING ABOUT MY SMALL FAMILY IN KISANGANI. WE WAS IN A DEEP DANGER OF DYING. THE BOAT WAS GOING TO SINK AND I CAN TELL YOU THAT NOBODY WAS GOING TO BE ABLE TO SURVIVE BECAUSE HERE THERE ARE SUPPOSED TO BE A LOT OF CROCODILES AND HIPPOS.
V/O:
ON WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON, WE LIMP INTO THE HARBOUR AT BUMBA. ONCE A THRIVING RIVER PORT, IT WAS VIRTUALLY DESTROYED DURING THE CIVIL WAR. NOW ITS WITHOUT WATER OR ELECTRICITY. AS WE SET FOOT ON SHORE, WERE ONCE AGAIN ARRESTED AND QUESTIONED AND ARE FORCED TO HAND OVER MONEY TO IMMIGRATION AND MILITARY INTELLIGENCE.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
WHEN YOU CAME HERE WITH TOURISTS BUMBA LOOKED LIKE A BIG CITY, IT WAS VERY CLEAN AND CHEAP. TO COME IN A BOAT WAS VERY EASY. BUT NOW EVERYTHING HAS CHANGED. YOU HAVE TO WAIT FIVE DAYS TO TAKE THE BOAT DOWN TO KINSHASA OR TO GO UPSTREAM TO KINSANGANA.
V/O:
FOR US, THE JOURNEY HAS COME TO AN END. THERE IS NO WAY WE CAN CONTINUE SAILING ON THE TSHOPO. THERE ARE TWO BIGGER BOATS IN THE HARBOUR. THE ONE ISNT DUE TO LEAVE FOR ANOTHER WEEK, WHILE THE OTHER REFUSES TO TAKE FOREIGNERS ON BOARD.
OGGI HOWEVER, WANTS TO CONTINUE HIS JOURNEY TO KINSHASA TO SEE HIS MOTHER. WE ARRANGE PASSAGE FOR HIM ON THE BELTEXACO.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
ITS FIVE YEARS FOR ME I HAVENT SEEN MY MOTHER. SO I WANT TO SEE MY MOTHER FROM THIS TIME.
THE TRIP ON WATER CAN BE ABOUT TEN DAYS AND I HOPE ITS NOT GOING TO BE LIKE THE ONE WE TOOK FROM KISANGANI TO HERE. I HOPE THIS TIME I WILL GO VERY SAFE FOR NO TROUBLE.
V/O:
THERE IS NOTHING MORE WE CAN DO BUT TO BOARD A CARGO PLANE IN BUMBA AND HEAD FOR THE RELATIVE SAFETY AND COMFORT OF KINSHASA.
V/O:
SO MUCH HAS CHANGED YET SO MUCH REMAINS THE SAME. IT IS SAD THAT IN A COUNTRY THAT HAS SO MANY RESOURCES AND POTENTIAL. ORDINARY PEOPLE STILL SUFFER SO MUCH.
The End
THIS IS THE EMBE TSHOPO SAILING DOWN THE CONGO RIVER. ITS OUR THIRD DAY ON THE BOAT AND WE ARE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN THE CITY OF KISANGANI AND THE RIVER TOWN OF BUMBA. WERE SAILING VIRTUALLY ON THE EQUATOR, SURROUNDED BY NOTHING BUT PRISTINE RAINFOREST AND THE WORLD SECOND BIGGEST RIVER. HOWEVER WHAT STARTED OUT AS OUR QUEST TO UNDERTAKE ONE OF THE WORLDS GREAT JOURNEYS, HAS NOW TURNED INTO A STRUGGLE FOR SURVIVAL.
V/O:
MY NAME IS MICHAEL MUTOMBO. IM A CONGOLESE REFUGEE WHO LIVES AND WORKS IN JOHANNESBURG. IVE BEEN IN SOUTH AFRICA FOR MANY YEARS AND ITS NOW MY HOME. ITS ALSO HERE WHERE I RECENTLY BECAME A FATHER.
V/O:
BUT IM ON MY WAY BACK TO THE CONGO WHERE I GREW UP. I LEFT THE COUNTRY 12 YEARS AGO WHEN THE DICTATORY MOBUTO SESE SEKO WAS STILL IN POWER. MY FAMILY DECIDED TO LEAVE THE CONGO AND CAME TO SOUTH AFRICA. SINCE THEN MOBUTO HAS DIED AND NEW PRESIDENTS HAVE BEEN SWORN IN AND THERE HAS BEEN A CIVIL WAR IN WHICH THREE MILLION PEOPLE DIED.
V/O:
IM IN THE CONGO WITH A SPECIAL ASSIGNMENT TEAM. WERE HERE TO TELL THE STORY OF THE CONGO AFTER FIVE YEARS OF WAR. THERE IS A PEACE AGREEMENT IN PLACE AND LIFE IN KINSHASA SEEMS TO BE ALMOST BACK TO NORMAL.
V/O:
BUT THE CONGO REMAINS DESPERATELY POOR. THE MAJORITY OF PEOPLE ARE JOBLESS, ECONOMIC GROWTH IS SLOW AND THE CURRENCY IS ALMOST WORTHLESS.
V/O:
ON ARRIVAL, ITS TIME TO GREET FAMILY AND OLD FRIENDS MY GRANDMOTHER WHO I HAVE NOT SEEN FOR 19 YEARS AND WHO HAS IN THE MEANTIME BECOME A GREAT GRANDMOTHER.
V/O:
NOTHING SYMBOLIZES THE CONGO MORE THAN THE RIVER FROM WHICH THE COUNTRY TAKES ITS NAME. THERE ARE VIRTUALLY NO ROADS, SO THE CONGO RIVER IS THE MAIN HIGHWAY. IT CUTS THROUGH THE DRC FOR ALMOST 3 000 KILOMETRES
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
I THANK GOD FOR HAVING GIVEN US THIS RIVER WHICH IS THE SECOND BIGGEST IN THE WORLD.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
ITS THROUGH THE RIVER THAT PROSPERITY WILL COME TO THE CONGO
V/O:
NOBODY KNOWS THE CONGO RIVER AND ITS VALUE TO THE COUNTRY BETTER THAN THESE TWO MEN. DIEUDONNE MABAKA IS A CIVIL ENGINEER AND A BOAT OWNER. HE GREW UP ON THE RIVER. JEAN KASONGA IS THE DIRECTOR OF THE STATE-OWNED DEPARTMENT OF PORTS AND RIVER TRANSPORT CALLED ONATRA.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
THE RIVER ENSURES THE UNITY OF THE COUNTRY. ITS NOT FOR NOTHING THAT ITS CALLED THE CONGO THE RIVER CONGO AND THIS COUNTRY IS CALLED THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO.
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
IT FEEDS US HERE IN KINSHASA AND IT UNIFIES US IN THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO. WITHOUT THIS RIVER WE WILL NEVER BE UNITED.
V/O:
THE RIVERBOATS OF THE CONGO ARE LEGENDARY. THEY WERE IMMORTALISED MORE THAN A HUNDRED YEARS AGO BY JOSEPH CONRAD IN HIS BOOK, THE HEART OF DARKNESS. THE BELGIANS GAVE BIRTH TO THE CULTURE OF RIVER TRAVEL. EVEN TODAY, IT REMAINS VIRTUALLY THE ONLY MEANS OF TRANSPORT FOR ORDINARY PEOPLE.
THE MOST FAMOUS OF THESE RIVER VOYAGES IS THE ROUTE BETWEEN KINSHASA AND KISANGANI A JOURNEY OF 1 700 KILOMETRES. IT WAS THIS ROUTE THAT WE PLANNED TO FOLLOW.
UPS: DIEUDONNE BONGUMBA boat owner
YES, YES, YES! A BOAT TRIP FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI IS THE LIFE I LIKE THE ATMOSPHERE YOU REALLY FEEL LIFE. NOT WITH AIRCONDITIONING... YOU REALLY FEEL LIFE. YOU SEE HOW PEOPLE FISH, BRING MAIZE, BRING A BIT OF CASAVA. YOU EAT NATURAL FOOD!
V/O:
WHY MY COUNTRY IS CALLED THE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO I DONT KNOW. THERE HAS NEVER BEEN DEMOCRATIC ELECTIONS. INSTEAD, IT WAS LOOTED FOR 35 YEARS BY THE DICTATOR MOBUTO, WHO CALLED THE COUNTRY ZAIRE. THEN REBEL LEADER LAURENT KABILA CAME TO POWER IN 1997 AND CHANGED THE NAME TO THE DRC. BUT HE WAS ALSO A TYRANT. CIVIL WAR BROKE OUT IN 1998 AS REBELS FROM THE EAST ROSE UP AGAINST HIS REGIME. THE GOVERNMENT CLOSED THE RIVER THEY FEARED THAT REBELS MIGHT USE THE RIVER TO ATTACK KINSHASA. THE ECONOMY VIRTUALLY COLLAPSED.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTRIBUTE FOOD AND MANUFACTURED GOODS.
V/O:
LAURENT KABILA WAS ASSASSINATED IN HIS PALACE IN 2002 AND HIS SON JOSEPH KABILA CAME TO POWER. SOON AFTERWARDS HE SIGNED A PEACE AGREEMENT WITH FOES AND REBELS LEADERS. THERE IS NOW A TRANSITIONAL GOVERNMENT IN PLACE. AT THE END OF LAST YEAR THE RIVER WAS RE-OPENED FOR TRADE.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
VERY HAPPY VERY HAPPY WE ARRANGED THREE CONVOYS AND ONE OF THEM WENT ALL THE WAY TO KINSANGANI THE MB KAMOTO.
V/O:
ITS TIME TO LOOK FOR A BOAT TO TRANSPORT US TO KISANGANI. BUT WE DISCOVER THAT THERE ARE NO PASSENGER BOATS LEFT HERE. THE HARBOURS AND PORTS BECOME VIRTUAL GRAVEYARDS. WHERE ONCE THERE WERE 500 BOATS SAILING UP AND DOWN THE CONGOS RIVERS THERE ARE NOW LESS THAN 50.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
RIGHT NOW, BECAUSE OF THE DIFFICULTIES THAT THE COUNTRY IS GOING THROUGH, THE PASSENGER TRADE HAS VIRTUALLY STOPPED. THE BOATS ARE HERE, BUT THEY NEED TO BE OVERHAULED. WERE LEFT WITH ONLY CARGO TRANSPORT
V/O:
THE GOVERNMENT HOPES TO HAVE THESE BOATS AFLOAT WITHIN 5 YEARS.
UPS: JEAN KASONGO Director: ONATRA
WHEN THESE BOATS ARE IN MOTION, ITS A FLOATING VILLAGE.
V/O:
A ONCE THRIVING INDUSTRY THAT DROVE THE CONGOLESE ECONOMY IS IN RUINS. WITH NO BOATS IN KINSHASA, WE HAVE TO HEAD NORTH-EAST TO KISANGANI WHERE WE ARE TOLD THERE ARE TWO BOATS THAT MIGHT TAKE US DOWNSTREAM BACK TO KINSHASA.
=========================AD BREAK=================
V/O:
WHEN WE GET TO KISANGANI, WE HAVE TO REPORT TO THE LOCAL IMMIGRATION OFFICE.
UPS: IMMIGRATION OFFICE EMPLOYEE
MY NAME IS I WORK HERE AT THE IMMIGRATION OFFICE. MY LIFE IS VERY DIFFICULT, 8 MONTHS AND WE CANT HAVE THE SALARY.
UPS: TAXI DRIVER
WERE GOING TOWARDS KISANGANI. THINGS ARE OKAY EXCEPT FOR THE WAR THAT REALLY MADE US SUFFER. LIFE HERE IS A BIT DIFFICULT THIS IS FORMER PRESIDENT MOBUTOS OLD RESIDENCE. IT WAS A VERY BEAUTIFUL HOUSE BUT AFTER THE WAR IT WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED.
V/O:
KISANGANI IS THE THIRD BIGGEST CITY IN THE CONGO AND WAS AT THE CENTRE OF THE CIVIL WAR. IT WAS A REBEL STRONGHOLD AND FIERCE FIGHTING RAGED IN AND AROUND THE CITY. ITS DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE THAT THIS WAS ONCE A THRIVING AND PROSPEROUS CITY.
UPS: TAXI DRIVER
A LOT OF COMPANIES HAVE CLOSED DOWN. THERES A LOT OF UNEMPLOYMENT. EVEN GOVERNMENT EMPLOYEES WHO STILL HAVE JOBS ARENT PAID.
V/O:
THERE ARE TWO BOATS PARKED IN KISANGANIS HARBOUR. THE TAXI DRIVER SAYS THE ONE HAS BEEN HERE FOR A LONG TIME AND MIGHT LEAVE SOON AGAIN. IT IS THE EMBE TSHOPO AND CONSIST OF A TUG AND TWO BARGES. ALTHOUGH CARGO BOATS ARE NOT ALLOWED OR LICENSEDTO TAKE PASSENGERS ON BOARD, NOBODY TAKES NOTICE OF THIS.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
THE BOAT WILL LEAVE HERE AT AROUND FIVE OCLOCK AND GO TO BUMBA. IT WILL TAKE AROUND 48 HOURS TO GET TO BUMBA.
V/O:
THE TSHOPO IS OLD AND RUN DOWN BUT ITS OUR ONLY OPTION TO GET ONTO THE RIVER AND BACK TO KINSHASA. WE PAY FREDDIE FIFTY DOLLARS TO DELAY THE DEPARTURE OF THE BOAT. THISLL GIVE US A CHANCE TO EXPL0RE KISANGANI AND PREPARE FOR THE JOURNEY. WHAT WE DONT KNOW, IS THAT THE TSHOPO IS NOT ABOUT TO LEAVE FOR ANOTHER WEEK.
V/O:
THE CONGO RIVER IS NAVIGATABLE UP TO KISANGANI. HERE A SERIES OF RAPIDS MAKE FURTHER RIVER BOAT TRAVEL IMPOSSIBLE. ITS AT A FISHING VILLAGE NEAR KISANGANI THAT WE MEET OGGI SAIDI. HES A LOCAL FISHERMAN, FORMER TOURIST GUIDE. HE FONDLY REMEMBERS THE DAYS WHEN THERE WERE STILL MANY TOURISTS.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
SO THE BOAT WAS THERE MOVING FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI, THE BUSINESS WAS VERY GOOD. PER DAY WE COULD RECEIVE IN THE FISHING VILLAGE ABOUT MORE THAN 50 TOURISTS. MOBUTU DID MANY THINGS GOOD IN THE COUNTRY. THERE WAS PEACE, WE DIDNT KNOW WAR ANY TROUBLE.
V/O:
DURING THE SO-CALLED SIX-DAY WAR IN 2000, MORE THAN 500 BOMBS FELL ON THE CITY.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
I WENT TO TOWN TO BUY SALT, AND I WAS SHOT TWO TIMES BUT GOD IS WITH ME I WAS NOT KILLED. SO I HAVE SEEN HOW PEOPLE WAS KILLING IN KISANGANI DURING THE WAR TIME. KISANGANI WAS A BEAUTIFUL TOWN WHERE YOU CAN FIND TWO BIG AIRPORT. WHERE YOU CAN FIND NICE HOTEL, NICE MARKET. SO AFTER THREE WARS WE HAVE HERE EVERYTHING IS FUCKED UP. NO BOATS FROM KISANGANI NO BOATS FROM KINSHASA. SO THAT TIME WE HAVE NO BIG BOAT LIKE HERE WHEN WE START SEEING THE BOAT NOW.
V/O:
OGGIS BROTHER WAS KILLED DURING THE WAR AND HIS MKOTHER FLED TO KINSHASA. HE WANTS TO SEE HER AGAIN, AND OFFERS TO ACCOMPANY US TO THE CAPITAL. HE WILL SHOW US THE WAY IF WE PAY HIS PASSAGE. WE ACCEPT, AND ASK HIM TO FIND OUT WHEN THE BOAT WILL BE LEAVING.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
WERE LEAVING TODAY IN THE AFTERNOON.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
THE DEPARTURE OF THE BOAT IS NOT TODAY OR TOMORROW, MAYBE MONDAY. IS WHAT I HEARD THIS MORNING.
V/O:
MOST OF THE PASSENGERS HAVE PAID TWO DOLLARS FOR THE VOYAGE TO BUMBA. THEY EAT AND SLEEP ON THE BOAT WHILE THEY WAIT.
UPS: PASSENGER
ITS VERY GOOD YOU COOK IT WITH OIL AND ONIONS AND EAT IT WITH BREAD
UPS: MICHAEL MUTOMBO
WHEN DOES THE BOAT LEAVE?
UPS: PASSENGER
WE WERE TOLD TO BE PATIENT. THE BOAT IS LEAVING EITHER TODAY AT AROUND FIVE OR TOMORROW MORNING.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF ALL GOES WELL IN THE AFTERNOON.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF THE BOAT DOESNT LEAVE TODAY, IT WILL TOMORROW MORNING.
UPS: PASSENGER
WELL, MY NAME IS JP AND I LIVE IN KINSHASA. I OFTEN TRAVEL LIKE THIS TO TRY AND FIND SOMETHING TO LIVE ON, OTHERWISE ITS NO GOOD. THERE IS NO EMPLOYMENT AND YOU KNOW HOW IT IS IN THIS COUNTRY. SO I HAVE TO TRY AND FIND SOME WAY TO LIVE.
V/O:
THE MARKET AROUND THE BOAT IS HOME TO MANY LOCAL DELICACIES: SNAKE, SMOKED APE, SMOKED FISH AND CROCODILE.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
TODAY IS SATURDAY RIGHT. WE HAVE A FEELING THAT THE BOAT IS NOT GOING TO LEAVE TODAY. THIS IS MY OPINION. I SEE NOTHING HAS HAPPENED.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
THE DOCUMENTS? THE CAPTAIN HAS GONE TO FETCH THEM. WERE WAITING.
UPS: PASSENGER
IF THE BOAT DOESNT LEAVE, WERE ALL GOING TO GET OFF.
V/O:
THERES A NEW PROBLEM: IMMIGRATION OFFICIALS WANT MONEY BEFORE ALLOWING THE BOAT TO LEAVE.
UPS: PASSENGER
HE MUST GET MONEY BEFORE OR IS MORE PROBLEM TO GO.
V/O:
IN THE MEANTIME, WE ARE RIPPED OFF BY SOLDIERS, POLICEMEN AND OFFICALS. DAY AFTER DAY, WE ARE ARRESTED, QUESTIONED AND FORCED TO PAY BRIBES TO PEOPLE LIKE THIS ARMY OFFICER.
SOLDIERS TELL US THAT THE LAST TIME THEY WERE PAID WAS IN MARCH. THEY RECEIVED TWELVE DOLLARS. MANY ARE DESPERATE AND DESTITUTE AND OBVIOUSLY POSE A GREAT THREAT TO PEACE AND STABILITY.
UPS: SOLDIER
THERE IS NO HELP FOR US! I CAN SHOW YOU MY INJURY. I WAS SUPPOSED TO HAVE SURGERY BUT THERE IS NO ONE TO HELP ME. THEY WANT LARGE AMOUNTS OF MONEY WHICH I DONT HAVE!
UPS: SOLDIER
OVER HERE IT DOES NOT WORK. THERES NO MOVEMENT AND ITS VERY PAINFUL. THE BULLET WENT IN HERE AND CAME OUT HERE AND BROKE MY BONES IM SUFFERING A LOT.
UPS: SOLDIER
I HAVE A WIFE AND TWO KIDS. THEY DONT HAVE ANYHTING TO EAT. AND YET, IM A SOLDIER FOR THE GOVERNMENT.
UPS: SOLDIER
WE ARE LIKE INVALIDS. WE NEED TO SORT THIS PROBLEM OUT SO THAT WE CAN BE AT PEACE AT HOME WITH OUR WIVES AND CHILDREN.
V/O:
SUNDAY MORNING. WHEN WE ARRIVE AT THE HARBOUR, THE TSHOPO IS GONE. IN THE DEAD OF THE NIGHT, FREDDIE HAS MOVED HIS BOAT TWO KILOMETRES DOWNSTREAM. HE HOPES TO ESCAPE THE GREEDY IMMIGRATION OFFICERS.
UPS: FREDDIE KIBOMBO boat manager
WE LEFT THE SMALL SPEEDBOAT FOR YOU GUYS. TOMORROW MORNING. COME TOMORROW MORNING AND WE LEAVE.
UPS PASSENGER:
ITS DEFINITELY LEAVING. WE ARE GOING TO RIOT IF IT DOESNT.
V/O:
THE BOAT IS NOW MOORED IN THE SHADOW OF A ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL FAMOUS FOR A VISIT BY POPE JOHN PAUL II IN THE EIGHTIES.
FREDDIE MIGHT HAVE ESCAPED THE IMMIGRATION OFFCIALS BUT THE BOAT IS NOW DOCKED NEAR AN ARMY CAMP.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
THEY WANT MONEY TO THE PASSENGERS SO THE PASSENGERS SAY WE DONT HAVE MONEY, THEY SAY MAYBE WE BACK AGAIN AT NIGHT.
UPS: PASSENGER
THE MILITARY? YES, IF WE STAY HERE THEY WILL LOOT US!
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
MOST OF THE PASSENGERS THEY ARE SCARED THEY DONT WANT THE BOAT TO STAY HERE TODAY, THEY WANT TO GO HOME.
V/O:
FINALLY, FREDDIE TELLS US TO BOARD THE BOAT. HE HAS PAID ALL HIS DEBTS AND BRIBES AND HIS DOCUMENTS ARE IN ORDER. THERE ARE 350 PASSENGERS ON BOARD. THIS IS THE CABIN THAT FREDDIE SOLD US FOR 50 US DOLLARS.
HOWEVER, AS WE ARE ABOUT TO DEPART ONE LAST PROBLEM. THESE ARE SECURITY POLICEMEN WITH A WARRANT FOR OGGIS ARREST. THEY SAY HE FAILED TO INFORM THEM THAT HE IS WORKINGT FOR FOREIGNERS AND IS TRAVELLING TO KINSHASA. THEY CLAIM ITS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE. THERE IS NO TIME TO ARGUE.
UPS: SECURITY
ITS OVER. WE ARE GOING BACK TO THE OFFICE. WE WERE SUPPOSED TO TAKE HIM WITH US, BUT THERE IS NO MORE PROBLEM.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
IF THE IMMIGRATION OFFICER ARE NOT PAID ITS NOT MY FUCKING PROBLEM. I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY I NEED PERMISSION TO GO TO MY CAPITOL, IN KINSHASA I AM CONGOLESE. ITS UNBELIEVABLE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS COUNTRY.
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V/O:
THE TSHOPO SAILS THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT WITHOUT LIGHTS OR ANY NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT. A FEW HOURS AFTER OUR DEPARTURE, WE DISCOVER THAT OUR BARGE IS LEAKING AND CRUMBLING. HOLES IN THE HULL ARE SIMPLY SEALED WITH WOODEN WEDGES.
V/O:
THE WORST IS STILL TO COME. THE NEXT MORNING, WE DISCOVER THAT THE BOAT HAS ALREADY HAD TWO SERIOUS ACCIDENTS ON THE WAY FROM KINSHASA TO KISANGANI.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
OUR BOAT WAS GOING TO CRASH ON A VERY BIG STONE AND IT MAKE A VERY BIG HOLE UNDER THE BOAT THERE. AND THE WATER STARTED TO COME INSIDE THE WATER TO MAKE US GO DOWN. THAT WAS TOO SERIOUS BUT MYSELF I AM ASTONISHED THAT NOBODY DIED. IT WAS PROTECTION FROM GOD.
V/O:
BECAUSE THEYRE OVERLAODED AND BADLY MAINTAINED, CONGOLESE BOATS HAVE A TERRIBLE SAFETY RECORD. IN NOVEMBER LAST YEAR, 160 PEOPLE DIED WHEN A BOAT SANK; IN FEBRUARY THIS YEAR ANOTHER 300 PASSENGER DIED WHEN THEIR BOAT CAPSIZED.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
THE ONE I DONT KNOW IT WAS IN 1970, NOW IT MUST BE SOMETHING LIKE 20 AND FOUR YEARS OLD. THAT IS JUST WE TOOK IT BECAUSE WE DIDNT FIND A GOOD ONE. JUST WHEN WE REACH KINSHASA WE ARE GOING TO FORGET IT, THAT ONE IS NOT TOO SAFE.
V/O:
HIS WORDS ARE HARDLY COLD. WATER IS POURING INTO ONE OF THE BARGES.
UPS: LAURNT ESPERANT - captain
ITS NOT SO SAFE THIS IS WHY I TELL YOU THAT WE DONT WANT TO PUT TOO MUCH PEOPLE INSIDE. THE PROBLEM IS THAT IT IS A SMALL BURGS AND IT IS OLD, ITS VERY OLD. ITS JUST BECAUSE OF THE WAR. THE WAR HAD BROKEN, THE ECONOMY. THE PROBLEM IS THAT IT IS NOT EASY TO FIND A NEW ONE. ALL THE BURGS IN THE BOATS THEY ARE ALL OLD. PEOPLE AER NOT MAKING NEW ONES.
TODAY IS TUESDAY WE REACH BUMBA TOMORROW AFTERNOON.
V/O:
AS NIGHT FALLS, THE CAPTAIN REFUSES TO STOP THE BOAT. THEN IT HITS A SANDBANK AND AN ISLAND. IT LIES LOW IN THE WATER BECAUSE OF ALL THE WATER ITS TAKEN IN.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
I COULDNT SLEEP I WAS THINKING ABOUT MY SMALL FAMILY IN KISANGANI. WE WAS IN A DEEP DANGER OF DYING. THE BOAT WAS GOING TO SINK AND I CAN TELL YOU THAT NOBODY WAS GOING TO BE ABLE TO SURVIVE BECAUSE HERE THERE ARE SUPPOSED TO BE A LOT OF CROCODILES AND HIPPOS.
V/O:
ON WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON, WE LIMP INTO THE HARBOUR AT BUMBA. ONCE A THRIVING RIVER PORT, IT WAS VIRTUALLY DESTROYED DURING THE CIVIL WAR. NOW ITS WITHOUT WATER OR ELECTRICITY. AS WE SET FOOT ON SHORE, WERE ONCE AGAIN ARRESTED AND QUESTIONED AND ARE FORCED TO HAND OVER MONEY TO IMMIGRATION AND MILITARY INTELLIGENCE.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
WHEN YOU CAME HERE WITH TOURISTS BUMBA LOOKED LIKE A BIG CITY, IT WAS VERY CLEAN AND CHEAP. TO COME IN A BOAT WAS VERY EASY. BUT NOW EVERYTHING HAS CHANGED. YOU HAVE TO WAIT FIVE DAYS TO TAKE THE BOAT DOWN TO KINSHASA OR TO GO UPSTREAM TO KINSANGANA.
V/O:
FOR US, THE JOURNEY HAS COME TO AN END. THERE IS NO WAY WE CAN CONTINUE SAILING ON THE TSHOPO. THERE ARE TWO BIGGER BOATS IN THE HARBOUR. THE ONE ISNT DUE TO LEAVE FOR ANOTHER WEEK, WHILE THE OTHER REFUSES TO TAKE FOREIGNERS ON BOARD.
OGGI HOWEVER, WANTS TO CONTINUE HIS JOURNEY TO KINSHASA TO SEE HIS MOTHER. WE ARRANGE PASSAGE FOR HIM ON THE BELTEXACO.
UPS: OGGI SAIDI tour guide and fisherman
ITS FIVE YEARS FOR ME I HAVENT SEEN MY MOTHER. SO I WANT TO SEE MY MOTHER FROM THIS TIME.
THE TRIP ON WATER CAN BE ABOUT TEN DAYS AND I HOPE ITS NOT GOING TO BE LIKE THE ONE WE TOOK FROM KISANGANI TO HERE. I HOPE THIS TIME I WILL GO VERY SAFE FOR NO TROUBLE.
V/O:
THERE IS NOTHING MORE WE CAN DO BUT TO BOARD A CARGO PLANE IN BUMBA AND HEAD FOR THE RELATIVE SAFETY AND COMFORT OF KINSHASA.
V/O:
SO MUCH HAS CHANGED YET SO MUCH REMAINS THE SAME. IT IS SAD THAT IN A COUNTRY THAT HAS SO MANY RESOURCES AND POTENTIAL. ORDINARY PEOPLE STILL SUFFER SO MUCH.
The End