Publicity:
The Spanish say they do everything over food – love, laugh, argue and fight

But what is it they’re eating?
Everything it seems.

“Would senor care for traditional fare like paellas and garlic prawns, or perhaps a scoop of goat’s cheese ice cream or foam is more to your liking?”

Foreign Correspondent’s Chris Clark reports on the revolutionaries in the kitchens of Madrid.

Plating dish Music 00:00
Sergi working in kitchen

CLARK: Meet Sergi Arola – one of the new generation of Spanish chefs leading the charge. 00:09

Sergi calls order

Sergi: Two more to go. First, second and third. Two medium dishes, two medium pigeons and two rice. 00:18

Kitchen decor

CLARK: The décor in his restaurant kitchen gives a hint of the food to come -- dramatic colours – contrasts – clean lines. 00:25

Plating dish Music 00:33

Goat’s cheese ice cream

CLARK: Here’s the goat’s cheese ice cream – tiny portions, intense flavours – radical combinations. 00:42

Foams

Foams and infusions – it’s almost like eating flavoured air.

SERGI: Ready.

CLARK: This new cooking has made a handful of Spanish chefs famous around the globe. In the world of food, it’s as big as the nouvelle cuisine revolution 30 years ago. 00:49

Sergi

SERGI: I’m very, very proud because for the last 15 years I have been a part of this movement and I’m really, really proud – really, really proud . For me, it’s a part – it’s like a dream. 01:13

Sergi working in kitchen

CLARK: It’s a staggering amount of effort – constant invention, innovation under enormous pressure. 01:26

Sergi and wife

SERGI: She’s my wife, my boss. 01:37

Chefs preparing in kitchen
Music 01:41
Sergi takes plate and examines dish

CLARK: Creating this sort of food is a permanent high-wire act.

SERGI: We have to add two more pieces of bread… here and here.

CLARK: The food of Sergi Arola and other Spanish chefs has gastronomes struggling for new metaphors. 01:52

Julia Perez Lozano
Spanish food writer Julia Perez Lozano. 02:08


JULIA: What has been happening in Spain is really a revolution. A revolution that’s linked to tradition because the Spanish cuisine has a very strong regional grounding with great diversity. There are many regional cuisines where things are done differently. 02:11

Casa Lucio kitchen
Music 02:30

CLARK: The food revolutionaries, though, haven’t yet stormed the kitchens of this famous restaurant - nor many others.02:42

Music 02:48

CLARK: At Casa Lucio it’s all smoke and fire.

02:54
Lucio plates eggs
Casa Lucio, like its owner Lucio Blazquez is a Madrid institution – it’s the very heart and soul of traditional Spanish restaurant food – and very, very good as well. 03:03
Waiter calls order

WAITER: Fish special… two tongues… garlic prawns… 03:16
Huevos estrellados

CLARK: This is the restaurant’s signature dish – huevos estrellados – literally, “broken eggs” – over chips. 03:22

Diners in restaurant There’s a queue for it every lunchtime. 03:30
Lucio to customer

LUCIO: The seafood, the meat, the eggs, lamb, the salad - it’s all delicious here. People come here thinking only about the eggs. Have an aperitif, to get the juices going , to really be able to appreciate the flavour of the eggs. 03:35

CLARK: Lucio Blazquez was signing autographs for customers decades before the term celebrity chef was coined.

03:47
Waiter serves food

No goats cheese ice cream or vegetable infusions here. 03:56


Lucio
LUCIO: I think not. I don’t think I’ll ever change my style. For me, cheese will always be cheese and the aroma of vegetables will be whatever they are. 04:03

Lucio greets customers

CLARK: The Spanish say of themselves that they do everything over food – laugh, love, argue, fight. 04:18

So, is there any tension between Spain’s food modernists and the traditionalists?

Julia Perez Lozano says, yes. 04:28

Julia
JULIA: Right now, there is a debate in Spain, a very strong debate about the differences between modern and traditional cuisines. I think it’s a bit of an absurd debate because the two cuisines have their own place. One doesn’t exclude the other. 04:37

Sergi’s kitchen

CLARK: If there is a struggle between the modern and traditional then the winners are the Spanish, who get to eat fabulous food across the spectrum. 04:52

Sergi in office
SERGI: In Spain there has always been that thing about the short, stocky fellow bullfighter who eats paella and drinks sangria. There’s nothing wrong with that. 05:07

Sergi
But there is also another side, a more modern Spain - very active - a very hard working Spain. 05:17

Casa Lucio kitchen Music 05:23

CLARK: It’s true that Casa Lucio evokes a sense of the past – but good food is never out of fashion. 05:31

Lucio farewells customers/ Lucio

LUCIO: I believe that we always have to fight to the death to keep this tradition. Everyone likes it, everyone wants it, everyone wants to eat it and come back. It shows I’m working with real food. 05:45

CLARK: A little goat’s cheese ice cream with your garlic prawns then? 06:03

Credits: Reporter : Chris Clark Camera: Louie Eroglu ACS Editor : Garth Thomas 06:10


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