Plane overhead/ People getting on train

Music

00:00

 

GRIFFITHS:  Sometimes you've got to go a long way to find good news.

00:21

Train/bus journey

Music

00:26

 

GRIFFITHS:   Five and a half thousand kilometres from Moscow. And all because of an extraordinary twist to a haunting tale about the death of the Aral Sea six years ago.

00:36

 

Now there's a very different story to tell -- when I get there.

00:52

Timur driving to home town

TIMUR:  Here is my native town where I was born and graduated from primary school.

01:05

 

GRIFFITHS:   My guide to the Aral Sea's new story is Timur Amanov, who grew up in Kazakhstan watching it all go wrong.

01:11

 

TIMUR:   It has become very tough to live and work in this town.

01:20

 

Many people have begun to leave. This is what our family did. We moved to a different city.

01:25

Aralsk

Music

01:34

 

GRIFFITHS:  Timur's childhood memories of the port town of Aralsk in the 1970s are happy ones.

01:44

Timur and Emma on dried up seabed

TIMUR:   Right now, we are standing in the place that was once the bottom of the harbour. You see there are seashells everywhere.

02:04

 

There was a sea here, with a depth of more than nine or twelve metres.

02:12

 

Music

02:19

 

TIMUR:  There was a pier over there see? Where the crane is now, and we used to jump off there into the water.

02:24

Aralsk

Music

02:34

 

GRIFFITHS:  What Timur didn't know was that the old Soviet authorities were deliberately draining the Aral Sea to feed cotton crops. He was watching his home town die - along with the Aral Sea itself . Aralsk was left high and dry.

02:40

Dried up harbour

TIMUR:  Once, the sea was here, it was a fishing harbour. People went fishing on these ships, then took the fish to Aralsk harbour for processing. And now the sea is gone and the ships have turned into the ships of the desert.

03:05

 

Music

03:29

Painting of Aralsk

MUSABAYEV:  This is the former harbour of Aralsk.

03:41

Musabayev pointing to painting

GRIFFITHS:  Nazhmeddin Musabayev is the mayor of Aralsk.

03:46

 

MUSABAYEV: There is the shipyard. Here is the harbour, and the ships.  We used to play here and swim.  And this place, this small restaurant, called "Float", was everyone's favourite place.

03:50

Detail of painting showing restaurant

GRIFFITHS:   Surprisingly, "Float" - the old restaurant - can still be found at the dried-up waterfront.

04:07

Emma and Timur at old restaurant

It's not quite what it was -- but you get the idea.

04:15

 

TIMUR:  I remember ships floating here in the days of my childhood. I remember seagulls, the sun shining, green water.

04:23

Timur

The sea was the only beautiful thing in this town. And the place where we are sitting  now was sea, too.

04:32

Timur pours vodka

Timur:  This is Russian vodka. Please let's drink for the return of the sea, okay?

Emma:  For the return of the sea.

04:40

Rushing water in dam

GRIFFITHS:  And here's the good news.

04:59

 

In what's got to be one of the world's greatest environmental recoveries, the Aral Sea is coming back to life.

05:03

 

TIMUR:  Look at how the water is flowing into the sea. It looks like champagne, like foam. Because the dam has been built here, this place has turned into the central point of well-being in the region.

05:15

 

GRIFFITHS:  It's just a dam, and a low one at that, thirteen kilometres long, and a hundred million dollars -- but look what's happened.

05:36

Map Aral Sea

The Kok-Aral Dam cuts across the northern part of the Aral Sea in Kazakhstan that's fed by the Syr-Darya River. Down south, in the part that belongs to Uzbekistan, nothing's been done to save the sea, but up here, the water level's shot up by more than three metres -

05:54

Fishermen haul in net

astonishing everyone by bringing back life where no one expected it.

06:15

 

Local officials reckon it's the eighth wonder of the world.

06:22

Timur

TIMUR:   You see, people are so happy because lately, plenty of fish have appeared here. They would not have caught so many  fish two years ago.

06:28

Ermakhanov in boat

GRIFFITHS:  No one could be more surprised or delighted than marine scientist Zaulkhan Ermakhanov. Salinity's plummeting; fish stocks are soaring.

06:41

 

ERMAKHANOV:  We don't want to lose our Aral. We want the Aral to live. 

07:00

Ermakhanov

So we will never let such a catastrophe happen again.

07:07

Water well/Donkey rolling in dust

GRIFFITHS:  The story's not over yet. Someone has to find another 150 million dollars before places like Karateren become seaside villages again.

07:17

Shinazarov. Super:
Akhazar Shinazarov
Village Elder

SHINAZAROV:  If the sea really comes back there will be jobs not only for my children but for the entire world.

07:29

 

GRIFFITHS:  That'll be phase two -- another dam, another four metres of water.

07:39

Men fixing house

But people are starting to come back -- even fixing up old homes -- and if the water's not rising here yet, hope certainly is.

07:46

 

SHINAZAROV:  If the sea comes back to where it was, life will change for the better.

08:01

Shinazarov

The air will become clean, the water will become clean, the fishery will start working again, and the ships might come back.

08:06

 

GRIFFITHS:  With a bit of imagination, you can almost smell it -- a future that brings fresh water, and cool sea breezes.

08:17

Villagers dance

Music

08:31

 

GRIFFITHS:  Little ones who don't know what the sea looks like might learn to splash like in its shallows.

08:38

 

It's a lovely thought. At last, a real reason to celebrate.

08:47

 

Music

08:53

Credits: 

Reporter: Emma Griffiths

Camera: Louie Eroglu

Editor: Simon Brynjolffssen

Moscow producer: Olga Pavlova

Producer: Peter George

Production Company: ABC Australia, Foreign Correspondent

09:21

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