Last Sunday in Japan an estimated 90,000 people gathered on the island of Okinawa - The purpose of their exercise? To send a very clear message to both Tokyo and Washington that the giant US bases that dot the island are not welcome and should be removed. If that were to happen, it would fracture a 50-year relationship between the two nations, not to mention ripping out a vital strategic plank in America's defence policy. From the island some have labelled "an unsinkable US aircraft carrier" here's Adrian Brown. 

REPORTER: Adrian Brown

Okinawa City on a Saturday night. The clubs and streets are filled with drunken marines. It's a menacing and seedy place - the result of what happens when young soldiers and a lot of beer get together. For decades, the catalogue of trouble caused by the more than 30,000 US troops living on the island has been growing, fuelling last Sunday's massive anti-bases rally. Not only was Washington put on notice but speakers including Okinawa's governor demanded that Japan's Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama also honour a pre-election commitment to move the bases.

HIROKAZU NAKAIMA, GOVERNOR OF OKINAWA (Translation): As promised in the election campaign, solutions must be presented, on the Futenma Air Base issue, in particular – a responsible solution must be presented.

REPORTER: So these files all relate to cases involving the US military?

Criminal lawyer Ikemiyagi Toshio specialises in cases involving the US bases.

IKEMIYAGI TOSHIO, CRIMINAL LAWYER (Translation):  The most common are traffic-related accidents, firstly some are caused by soldiers drinking and driving, there are hit-and-runs some resulting in death. Apart from hit and runs, there are other fatal accidents caused by negligence. We have a lot of such accidents. Besides those, there are a lot of sexual crimes committed against women.

In 1995, anger erupted after four marines gang-raped a 12-year-old girl. The last reported rape was two years ago, and involved a 14-year-old girl. But according to Barack Obama's top diplomat for East Asia, the behaviour of the US forces has actually been improving.

KURT CAMPBELL, US ASSISTANT SECRETARY OF STATE: I think the more important feature of the last 15 years is that you will note in that period of time that the incidence of crime is far below the national levels in the United States and so you've seen a thorough-going improvement in the behaviour and the activities of deployed American forces in Okinawa over the course of the last 15 years or so.

However Ikemiyagi Toshio tells me the statistics are misleading because many more sex crimes go unreported.

IKEMIYAGI TOSHIO (Translation):  The US soldiers live within the bases and that makes it extremely difficult for an individual to file a suit against a US soldier. So in many cases the victim just gives up.

This is the big Futenma air base located right in the middle of the city of Ginowan. It's one of 12 bases on the island. This photo shows just how densely packed the surrounding residential areas are. It is home to 4,000 marines, who train regularly, ready for deployment to Afghanistan. Okinawa is a strategic gem for the US located close to mainland China, Taiwan and North Korea. Now it's all threatened by the anti-bases movement.   Because of the sensitivity of this issue, few journalists are allowed onto Futenma base. It's become the fault line in the US-Japan defence alliance. Both governments agree this camp has to close. The sticking points are though when it will happen and more importantly where it will be moved to.

From the roof top of Okinawa International University you get a direct view of the air base. But it's a view university president Moritake Tomikawa has grown tired of.

REPORTER: When do you want the marines to go?

MORITAKE TOMIKAWA, UNIVERSITY PRESIDENT: Right now, right now.

REPORTER: Right now?

MORITAKE TOMIKAWA:  Yes, as soon as possible.

In 2003, the then US Secretary of State, Donald Rumsfeld, called Futenma air base "an accident waiting to happen". A year later, he was proved right when a US helicopter crashed into the university. Incredibly no-one was killed but an administration building was destroyed. The Americans sealed off the area, denying access even to Japanese emergency services.

REPORTER: Do you worry there might be another accident here?

RITAKE TOMIKAWA, PRESIDENT, OKINAWA INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY: Sure - Every day. I feel so. Yeah, I worry about that. We have over 6,000 people here so I worry about that crash again - whenever I saw the helicopter flying.

In 2006, Washington and Tokyo finally agreed to move Futenma to another part of the island. But late last year, Japan's new Prime Minister suggested the base should be shifted off Okinawaaltogether. The deal was put on hold and a 50-year-old military alliance came under strain.

REPORTER:  When will the marines and their aircraft be leaving Futenma?

KURT CAMPBELL: I can't answer that question. In fact, I will tell you quite honestly, I've been working on this matter for almost 15 years and I would've thought it would've been resolved long ago. The problem, of course, has been a new government - a government very different that the preceding government - has come to power in Japan, and they have a different conception, or at least they had a different conception, about some specifics associated with the US-Japan security relationship, and we have yet been able to gain a full understanding from them on what's the best way forward.

Hajime Kanai knows these waters well. They boast coral reefs, tropical fish and the endangered dugong. Technically these are American territorial waters because of what stretches along the coastline here - another sprawling base, Camp Schwab.

REPORTER:  Everything here is American? All these waters?

HAJIME KANAI, ANTI BASES PROTESTER: Yes, but we think this is Okinawan sea.

REPORTER:  Beautiful, clear water.

In return for closing Futenma, the Americans want to shift air operations to Camp Schwab. The plan includes a proposal for a new runway inside the base. But another more controversial option would bury part of this picturesque bay under a V-shaped runway.

HAJIME KANAI (Translation): There are a few reasons. One - I don't want them to destroy the beautiful sea ofOkinawa and secondly - I want to protect the precious creature, Dugong, Butt. 20% of Okinawa is occupied by the US bases. It is upsetting - put daily lives - it is an undesirable existence.

Clearly visible from the boat is the American razor wire that divides Henoko beach. The fence is festooned with colourful banners and protest notes. Among the visitors today, tourists fromTokyo, keen to know what will eventually happen here. The keep-out sign was not enough to deter him. Another sign of growing Japanese defiance - A defiance you also find at the heart of Japan's government. 1,600 kilometres away in Tokyo, I've come to meet an outspoken member of the Japanese Cabinet.

MRS MIZUHO  FUKUSHIMA SOCIAL DEMOCRATIC PARTY: Nice to meet you, thank you.

REPORTER: Thank you for sparing the time to see us, I know you're very busy at the moment.

Mizuho Fukushima is head of the left-leaning Social Democratic Party and a staunch opponent of the relocation plan.

MRS MIZUHO FUKUSHIMA: I want to emphasize that plan will not be able to realize. One point with that, people dislike such plan. Most people don't agree and every persons, every politicians in Okinawa prefecture oppose that plan.

While the echoes of last week's demonstration are being heard in Tokyo and Washington, this weekly ritual outside Camp Schwab has been going on for six years. A small group of protesters, most of them pensioners, are busy decorating the perimeter fence. Many remember when the Americans first arrived in April 1945 and have resented their presence ever since. In the past, there have been clashes with the police, but today the demonstration is peaceful.

HIROSHI ASHITOMI, ANTI US BASES PROTESTER (Translation): I want to emphasize the worst plan is the island plan.

Their leader is a retired civil servant who says the protests will continue until the relocation plan is dropped.

HIROSHI ASHITOMI (Translation): The destruction of the environment is one of our strongest concerns. There are sea turtles, dugong, and a coral reef here. By destroying the environment here it might drive some of those species into extinction.

Okinawa is etched deeply in the memory of both Japan and America. The battle of Okinawa was the bloodiest of the Pacific War. The island's memorial park commemorates 200,000 Japanese troops and civilians who lost their lives. More than were killed during the atomic bombings of Hiroshimaand Nagasaki. Over 12,000 Americans also perished.

TOSHIKO SHIMABUKURO (Translation): We did not know how terrifying a war was, we did not think that our friends will die like this.

Toshiko Shimabukuro was a 17-year-old schoolgirl when the invasion began. She was treated by American medics after being shot in the leg running for cover.

TOSHIKO SHIMABUKURO (Translation): I wonder why the military bases exist in islands that had over 200,000 people dying 65 years ago? But they seem to be trying to build stronger base with stronger foothold here. We would like to ask the US why they do not consider the lives of Okinawans? We ask ourselves, what is Okinawa? And ask if they would think of what we went through even before the war. We do not want the bases. I wish theUS would be more considerate towards Okinawa.

Japan has to pay more than $2 billion a year towards the cost of supporting the US presence.Washington insists that this allows Japan to hold down its defence costs in line with its pacifist constitution.

KURT CAMPBELL: Overall it's one of the best deals imaginable for a country like Japan that spends less than 1% on its national defence but at the same time has the robust and very firm commitment on the part of the United States to maintain peace and stability and indeed the security of Japan.

But Tokyo now says it wants a more equal partnership with Washington and the flashpoint of this marathon debate is Futenma.

MIZUHO FUKUSHIMA (Translation):  Of course US-Japan bilateral relationship is of utmost importance. But US itself said it is not beneficial for the US Government to have a base surrounded by hostile sentiment. 75% of theUS bases in Japan are concentrated in an area only 0.5% the size of Japan, why should Okinawa accept another base.

The anti-base campaign received a boost earlier this year in the nearby city of Nago. Voters elected a mayor who had campaigned against the expansion of the US military presence. The results reverberated around the country. One national daily said the biggest loser was not the victor's opponent but the Japan-US Defence Alliance. Later Japan's Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama said "The people had spoken" and promised to settle the issue once and for all.

YUKIO HATOYAMA, PRIME MINISTER (Translation):  My government has said it will take responsibility and settle this issue by the end of May. We will definitely carry this out.

The new mayor has no say in national policy, but still insists it's now impossible for the air base to be moved here. 

SUSUME INAMINE, NAGO MAYOR (Translation): As for the new plan with a V-shaped runway, the base would be bigger than the current air station an expansion not only in size but in functions is incorporated in the plan. What would the consequences be? Futenma is said to be one of the most dangerous bases in the world and the new base would expose the residents to even bigger risks.

But almost 50% of the electorate didn't vote for him and doesn't support an anti-base stance. Masatake Kyoda is an unemployed construction worker. He heads a group that wants the base to come to this area because of the jobs that would follow.

MASATAKE KYODA (Translation):  If the base is to come, we'll insist on our terms that will benefit the community and our children in the future.

Here in Henoko, shop after shop in the main street is shuttered by the economic downturn. Young people are leaving to find work elsewhere. It's a dying town.

MASATAKE KYODA (Translation):   The issue is going over our heads. Our community is in a state of limbo.

It's not jobs this gaggle of protesters worry about. They are ardent supporters of Japan's defence pact with America. They fear that Okinawa without the bases would leave the country militarily vulnerable.

SHIGEKO OBARA, PRO BASES SUPPORTER: China is trying to invade our country step by step.

REPORTER: Do you think that would happen if the American bases were closed?

SHIGEKO OBARA: Yes, Yes. It gonna happen. Yes, yes.

At the US State Department in Washington officials know they have to tread carefully right now. But it is impatient to end the months of uncertainty.

KURT CAMPBELL: So we are coming to that stage now where we're expecting our friends in Japan to take the appropriate steps. So I wouldn't say frustration, but a gathering anticipation that we are about to see some real steps. But I think a larger point, Adrian, must be made, that although we are concerned and we do care deeply about the people of Okinawa, there are larger issues at play. The US-Japan relationship, in many respects, transcends local communities and this is fundamentally not just about public opinion in Okinawa, it's about decision making in Tokyo and indeed in Washington.

Last week's rally has upped the pressure on both sides, but particularly on Japanese Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama. Almost half the respondents in a recent opinion poll said that the Prime Minister should resign if the relocation issue isn't settled by the end of May.

YUKIO HATOYAMA (Translation): I believe that the extremely huge rally held by the people of Okinawa was definitely an indication of public opinion. We'd like to reiterate that we hope to further ease the burden of theOkinawa people and eliminate the dangers of Futenma airbase. I will continue to make efforts with this thought in mind.

Whatever decision is made later this month - one thing is certain, the US-Japan relationship is changing.

KURT CAMPBELL: Japanese want to know more, they want to be consulted more actively, they want to be engaged in decision-making. I think that's entirely appropriate. This will also demand and require changes in how the United States conceptualises its relationship with Japan and I believe we're in the midst of trying to do that right now.

GEORGE NEGUS:  And if you want to tell us what you think of those US bases in Japan go to our website, where there's a forum where you can voice your comments and opinions on all of our stories. 

Reporter/Camera

ADRIAN BROWN

Fixer

TERRENCE TERASHIMA

Producer

VICTORIA STROBL

Researcher

DONALD CAMERON

Editor

NICK O’BRIEN

Translations/Subtitling

HIROKO MOORE