1 00:00:34:00 00:00:39:00 Like an open palm spread before the sky,

2 00:00:40:00 00:00:43:00 town made of stone that seems like it is floating on the sea,

3 00:00:44:00 00:00:48:00 like a castle emerging from the sea depths.

4 00:00:54:00 00:00:56:00 TROANTICO

5 00:00:57:00 00:01:01:00 TROGIR – LIFE UNDER UNESCO PROTECTION

6 00:01:02:00 00:01:05:00 film by

7 00:01:07:00 00:01:10:00 A town on the island only 350 meters long and 200 meter wide.

8 00:01:17:00 00:01:25:00 A northern bridge connects it with the mainland, and a southern one with the island of Čiovo.

9 00:01:26:00 00:01:29:00 The entire town is made of stone. White limestone.

10 00:01:30:00 00:01:34:00 For eternity moulded in piece of art by human hand.

11 00:01:35:00 00:01:43:00 And people wonder whether the city was assembled from millions of stone pieces or it was sculpted from one big stone like a Old Greek statue.

12 00:01:46:00 00:01:50:00 Welcome to Trogir! Today will be sunny and hot.

13 00:01:53:00 00:01:58:00 Every morning, shoemaker Toni Parčina opens his workshop.

14 00:01:59:00 00:02:05:00 It is located on the main square opposite the cathedral, on the ground floor of the 13th century Ćipiko palace.

15 00:02:06:00 00:02:09:00 Toni inherited the shop from his father Lenko.

16 00:02:10:00 00:02:14:00  It was first opened by Toni's grandfather Duje as long ago as 1930. 

17 00:02:17:00 00:02:21:00 I was 7 when I started helping father in the workshop.

18 00:02:22:00 00:02:35:00 At that age, I was probably more hindrance than help, but my father was glad because I was there near him, helping him and developing good work habits.  

19 00:02:37:00 00:02:45:00 Toni's main tool is his grandfather's foot-driven sewing machine which is 133 years old – four times older than him.

20 00:02:46:00 00:02:48:00 Yet it never had to be repaired.

21 00:02:49:00 00:02:54:00 I remember when a group of Japanese tourists entered the shop and saw me sewing at the old machine.

22 00:02:55:00 00:03:04:00  They thought it a miracle – something so old that was still in working condition.

23 00:03:05:00 00:03:14:00 They left their tourist guide outside, in front of the cathedral, and a group of 20 Japanese came inside, cramming in the shop to take photos and videos of me.

24 00:03:15:00 00:03:19:00  The guide was wondering who stole his tourists. 

25 00:03:20:00 00:03:23:00 Every shoe is different and every person has some individual demands.

26 00:03:24:00 00:03:27:00 High quality soles are needed for walking on the stone sidewalk.

27 00:03:28:00 00:03:30:00 It is vital not to slide in the rain.

28 00:03:31:00 00:03:37:00 I remember my father's story about the foreign tourists who arrived to Trogir in the sixties of the last century.

29 00:03:38:00 00:03:44:00  His brother, my uncle Slobodan, would copy design of their shoes.

30 00:03:45:00 00:03:54:00 He'd come back to the shop and the two of them would make copies of these shoes during the night. Tomorrow they would be selling brand new models. 

31 00:03:56:00 00:04:01:00 There used to be several shoemakers in Trogir. Today, Toni is the only one left.

32 00:04:02:00 00:04:06:00 The life in Trogir will last as long as there are young people who love the old town.

33 00:04:07:00 00:04:10:00 I love my job. I love the place where I work.

34 00:04:11:00 00:04:14:00 I can't imagine doing any other job, at any other place.

35 00:04:15:00 00:04:19:00  I had many offers to sell or rent the shop.

36 00:04:20:00 00:04:26:00  One guy was convincing me to sell for days, he even brought a bag full of money once, but I wouldn’t accept.  

37 00:04:27:00 00:04:37:00 What would people in our small town say if there were no more shoemaker on spot they used to come to repair their shoes. 

38 00:04:55:00 00:05:01:00 Cathedral of St. Lawrence took almost 500 years to build, from 12th to 16th century.

39 00:05:02:00 00:05:05:00 The tower displays various artistic styles.

40 00:05:06:00 00:05:12:00 First floor is in the Late Romanesque style with minimum decorations, second is flowery Venetian Gothic.

41 00:05:13:00 00:05:16:00 And the third floor is decorated with statues of apostles in the Renaissance style.

42 00:05:17:00 00:05:19:00 Bell tower offers view of the whole town.

43 00:05:20:00 00:05:25:00 There are 116 steps.

44 00:05:42:00 00:05:48:00 But the view from the top is worth all the trouble.

45 00:05:53:00 00:05:59:00  Western portal is a masterpiece by the master builder Radovan who signed it in year 1240.

46 00:06:00:00 00:06:03:00 He was one of the most ingenious sculptors of the Middle Ages in Europe.

47 00:06:06:00 00:06:10:00 He sculpted human bodies, animals and fantastic beings, different types of plants…

48 00:06:10:00 00:06:17:00 …sinful mythological scenes, but also scenes from the life of Jesus, from his birth till resurrection.

49 00:06:17:00 00:06:22:00 On the round window there are dragons devouring woman symbolising lust.

50 00:06:23:00 00:06:27:00 Two lions are guarding portal.

51 00:06:28:00 00:06:34: Experts point out the similarities of Radovan's work with reliefs on the main portal of basilica San Marco in Venice.

52 00:06:35:00 00:06:39:00 Was Radovan author of reliefs and sculptures in San Marco?

53 00:06:40:00 00:06:44:00 Maybe he had made a name for himself in Trogir and was later invited to Venice? 

54 00:06:45:00 00:06:49: Baptistery was built in the second half of 15th century.

55 00:06:49:00 00:06:51:00 The entrance is located in the vestibule of the cathedral.

56 00:06:52:00 00:06:57:00 It was decorated by Albanian sculptor Andrija Aleshi.

57 00:06:58:00 00:07:08:00 Cathedral has shown all its splendour in 2011 – during 900th anniversary of the death of St. John of Trogir, saint protector of the town.

58 00:07:09:00 00:07:12:00 He was a priest and diplomat.

59 00:07:12:00 00:07:16:00 At the end of the 15th century people of Trogir dedicated to him the chapel in the cathedral.

60 00:07:16:00 00:07:19:00 His bones lie in the crypt right on the altar.

61 00:07:19:00 00:07:22:00 The chapel is an exceptional monument of the Renaissance architecture.

62 00:07:23:00 00:07:26:00 It contains as much as 149 faces of angels.

63 00:07:27:00 00:07:31:00 The ceiling represents the sky with God in the middle.

64 00:07:33:00 00:07:40:00 Three times a day – in the morning, at noon and in the evening - city bells call people to the mass.

65 00:07:41:00 00:07:45:00 And every 15 minutes they remind us that the life is passing by.

66 00:07:46:00 00:07:51:00 From all six church bells in the historical centre of Trogir.  

67 00:07:58:00 00:08:05:00 Before dawn, Vedran Harašić sailed out from Trogir on the fishing boat Sveti Osib.

68 00:08:08:00 00:08:13:00 His father is a fisherman so he and his brother Ivica have been at sea since childhood.

69 00:08:14:00 00:08:19:00 As the town wakes up, Trogir's fishermen have already been at sea for several hours.

70 00:08:21:00 00:08:25:00 They throw their nets and drag them through the depths.

71 00:08:26:00 00:08:31:00 They sail around Trogir archipelago, but also further on until the island of Vis. 

72 00:08:41:00 00:08:47:00  Fish has to be classified, washed by the sea water and sorted in boxes with ice.

73 00:08:51:00 00:08:56:00 For lunch Vedran is frying mullets and hakes that were swimming in the sea only half an hour earlier. 

74 00:09:02:00 00:09:07:00 If my wife sees me frying, I will have to fry home as well.  

75 00:09:20:00 00:09:25:00 And after the meal there is nothing better than to lie down a little.  A little rest is always good. 

76 00:09:29:00 00:09:32:00  Hey, stop bothering me!

77 00:09:33:00 00:09:38:00 Marine forecast tells that bora is turning into south-western wind. The sea will be calm.

78 00:09:43:00 00:09:49:00 Captain Ivica makes the final decision – we are staying at sea until evening. 

79 00:09:56:00 00:10:02:00  When you are on the ship whole day, you forget about civilization. 

80 00:10:03:00 00:10:08:00 You have no contact with other people.  81 00:10:09:00 00:10:10:00

82 00:10:11:00 00:10:18:00 People say fishermen can't have families because they are always at sea.   

83 00:10:14:00 00:10:24:00 They are never at home with their wives and children.

84 00:10:25:00 00:10:33:00 But this can all be organised and today it is not so bad to be a fisherman.

85 00:10:34:00 00:10:42:00 I've heard that women on the boat bring misfortune, but on our ship women are always welcome. 

86 00:10:51:00 00:10:56:00 Modern devices are warning fishermen about the rocks which can tangle their nets.

87 00:11:02:00 00:11:05:00 Harašić brothers are truly seasoned sailors.

88 00:11:06:00 00:11:10:00 They know how to mend the net and fix the boat engine. 

89 00:11:13:00 00:11:17:00 They come home at dark.

90 00:11:18:00 00:11:22:00 The sea exhausted them.

91 00:11:23:00 00:11:30:00 Behind them are 18 hours of sailing, 45 miles and about 50 boxes of fish. 

92 00:11:31:00 00:11:35:00 Buyers are already waiting for them on the seafront.

93 00:11:38:00 00:11:45:00 While the day is over for some, others have a long night ahead.

94 00:12:02:00 00:12:07:00 Dancing nightlife in summer lasts until the early morning.

95 00:12:16:00 00:12:24:00 When the sun comes up, terraces of seafront bars are re-arranged for the first guests drinking the morning coffee.

96 00:12:32:00 00:12:37:00 Fish was sold here on the seafront in covered stone lodge for centuries.

97 00:12:38:00 00:12:43:00 It provided an excellent shelter from rain and wind, as well as the strong sun.

98 00:12:44:00 00:12:49:00 In the 21st century the fish market was moved out of town walls. 

99 00:12:52:00 00:12:58:00 Vedran's younger brother Josip is there from the break of dawn. He is selling yesterday's catch.

100 00:12:59:00 00:13:02:00  Come on, come on, fresh fish, live fish...

101 00:13:07:00 00:13:09:00  Mullets, monkfish, sea bass...

102 00:13:10:00 00:13:14:00  People from Trogir really know how to recognize good fish.

103 00:13:19:00 00:13:23:00 All the news can be heard here early in the morning.

104 00:13:24:00 00:13:29:00 People don’t go to the fish market only to shop, but also to hangout.

105 00:13:31:00 00:13:35: When bora disperses clouds, sun rays reveal all the beauty.

106 00:13:36:00 00:13:43:00  It is not an overstatement to say that Trogir is one of the oldest and most beautiful towns in the Mediterranean.

107 00:13:44:00 00:13:48:00  UNESCO experts recognised it in 1997. 108 00:13:49:00 00:13:54:00  They inscribed Trogir's historical city core in the list of protected world cultural and natural heritage.  

109 00:13:55:00 00:14:00:00 Trogir is an excellent example of Middle Age town built on Roman and Hellenistic foundations.

110 00:14:02:00 00:14:09:00 Archaeological research discovered remains of Greek and Roman houses and sewage system only a meter below sidewalks.

111 00:14:11:00 00:14:14:00 Even historians can't agree how old Trogir is.

112 00:14:15:00 00:14:20:00 Some say that 4 thousand years ago a Illyrian tribe settled in this spot. 

113 00:14:21:00 00:14:24:00 Doctor Ivo Babić spent all his life in the city core.

114 00:14:25:00 00:14:29:00  As an art historian, he knows almost every stone in Trogir.    

115 00:14:30:00 00:14:34:00 He cannot imagine living anywhere else.

116 00:14:38:00 00:14:47:00 Inscription of Trogir in the UNESCO World Heritage List was a big contribution in establishing Trogir as a brand

117 00:14:48:00 00:14:52:00 and its popularization in tourism and marketing.

118 00:14:53:00 00:15:00:00 Trogir citizens have had increased awareness of importance of the artistic heritage and responsibility for its protection.

119 00:15:01:00 00:15:08:00  The self-consciousness also increased which is very important symbolically. 

120 00:15:13:00 00:15:17:00  More and more young people are leaving their homes in narrow stone streets.

121 00:15:18:00 00:15:22:00 They sell them to rich foreigners who spend there only few weeks in a year. 

122 00:15:23:00 00:15:35:00 One peculiarity of Trogir, compared with other towns of Dalmatia, is that life here begins long time ago, in prehistoric times, and this life has never been extinguished.

123 00:15:36:00 00:15:45:00 Maybe some reasons for it are excellent ecological conditions, good position, fertile fields, plentiful water sources …

124 00:15:46:00 00:15:51:00 In this town there are traces from all periods of its history – from prehistoric times till now.  

125 00:15:52:00 00:15:58:00 Circular form of the town originates from Greek and Roman times.

126 00:15:59:00 00:16:00:00

127 00:16:01:00 00:16:08:00 Most houses in which people still live were built in 13th century. 

128 00:16:09:00 00:16:14:00 The town is, first of all, social and economic phenomenon.

129 00:16:15:00 00:16:19:00  There were many activities and crafts.

130 00:16:20:00 00:16:26:00  However, the problem is that all those economical activities are today reduced to only one thing – the tourism.

131 00:16:27:00 00:16:29:00 No monoculture is good.  

132 00:16:30:00 00:16:34:00 To maintain life, all functions of town – administrative for example – should be preserved

133 00:16:35:00 00:16:37:00 The shipbuilding is also a matter of culture.

134 00:16:38:00 00:16:44:00 I believe that Trogir, like some other old towns in the world, will experience the process of inhabitants returning to the town core because it is made to human measure…

135 00:16:45:00 00:16:48:00  Old centres have their advantages and disadvantages. 

136 00:16:49:00 00:16:54:00 Trogir can't live without its inhabitants.

137 00:16:55:00 00:17:01: .  Trogir can't live without its inhabitants. These houses are beautiful but without inhabitants they are only facades, they are barren if there are no people and children inside,

138 00:17:02:00 00:17:07:00 if they are not maintained and ventilated, if windows are not being opened…

139 00:17:09:00 00:17:14:00 I will do it in next few days. Don't worry. Danka told me it's not urgent.

140 00:17:15:00 00:17:21:00 Ana, please open the door. Oh, it's open. 

141 00:17:23:00 00:17:28:00 Symbol of the town industry is its shipyard. It employs over 1200 people.

142 00:17:29:00 00:17:33:00 Destinies of Trogir and its shipyard are therefore inextricable.

143 00:17:34:00 00:17:44:00   Although the tourism became more profitable than shipbuilding, people of Trogir won’t so easily let it go and build hotels in its place. 

144 00:17:45:00 00:17:49:00 One of workers in  the locksmith workshop is our fisherman Vedran.

145 00:17:50:00 00:17:54:00 Five years ago he got married and decided to cut down on his time at sea. 

146 00:17:55:00 00:17:59:00  I finished high school for engine technician.  It was the first generation in Trogir school.

147 00:18:00:00 00:18:11:00 I was planning to get a job in shipyard but they didn't need engine technicians so I got a locksmith job instead.

148 00:18:12:00 00:18:16:00 Now I'm here, I work, I'm happy to have a job.

149 00:18:17:00 00:18:19:00 The shipyard means a lot to Trogir.

150 00:18:29:00 00:18:22:00 Many people from Trogir work in the shipyard which feeds many families.

151 00:18:23:00 00:18:26:00  The salary is not high, but we feel secure.

152 00:18:27:00 00:18:30:00 Between the sea and the shipyard – I chose the shipyard. 

153 00:18:31:00 00:18:35:00 Vedran's best friend Josip Šmuketa also works with him.

154 00:18:51:00 00:18:55:00  Both of them sing in klapa Tragos.

155 00:19:26:00 00:19:31:00 Vedran is the first tenor. He was only 18 when he joined klapa.

156 00:19:32:00 00:19:36:00 Klapa songs are very important part of Trogir tradition. 

157 00:19:59:00 00:20:04:00 I lost my button. I have a new button. Does it look good? OK. 

158 00:20:12:00 00:20:17:00 The secret of klapa song is perfect polyphony and singing from the soul.

159 00:20:18:00 00:20:25:00  Ipak But, God-given voices alone are not enough for the harmony if they are not properly coordinated before the concert.

160 00:20:30:00 00:20:35:00 In the past klapas were singing under girls’ windows, so the songs are mostly about love.

161 00:20:36:00 00:20:41:00  But klapa also sings about hard life of fishermen, seamen, farmers…

162 00:20:55:00 00:21:02:00 This is klapa Tragos. And I'm klapa Tragos as well and I am glad to see you here. All 103 of you.

163 00:21:23:00 00:21:27:00  Singing in klapa is my greatest love. 164 00:21:28:00 00:21:31:00 I like it more than anything else I do in my life.

165 00:21:32:00 00:21:40:00 When I'm on the stage, I feel big and powerful because I really love it.

166 00:21:41:00 00:21:46:00 Only thing I love more than klapa is my wife.

167 00:21:47:00 00:21:54:00 I've never felt like a star. Never, because singing is my love.

168 00:21:55:00 00:22:06:00 When I get up in the morning to go to work, klapa is the first thing that comes to my mind and it gives me the energy to go on with my working day.

169 00:22:07:00 00:22:10:00 As a child I always listened to klapa, mostly klapa Trogir.

170 00:22:11:00 00:22:15:00 My uncles Vinko and Duje sang in that klapa

171 00:22:16:00 00:22:20:00  and I was often visiting their rehearsals because they were taking me with them.

172 00:22:21:00 00:22:23:00 And klapa song became my great love. 173 00:22:24:00 00:22:29: My mother Gina was singing in a choir. She is also a great singer.

174 00:22:30:00 00:22:36:00  People in our family have beautiful voices and we love to sing. 

175 00:22:54:00 00:23:00:00 One of Trogir's attractions was accidentally found in the attic of Ivo Babic's house of in 1928.

176 00:23:01:00 00:23:05:00 Greek stone relief of Kairos from 3rd century B.C.  

177 00:23:06:00 00:23:10:00 Forgotten marble panel was used to cover a cup of salted sardines. 

178 00:23:11:00 00:23:19:00 As nuns from monastery became owners of this house, this relief was moved to the monastery of St. Nicholas.

179 00:23:20:00 00:23:24:00 Dr. Ivan Delale, a very learned priest, immediately recognized it for what it was.

180 00:23:25:00 00:23:27:00 There are lots of scientific papers about this relief,

181 00:23:28:00 00:23:30:00 because it was very uncommon subject in Greek sculpture.

182 00:23:31:00 00:23:35:00 Who is this deity Kairos? Something like Kronos.

183 00:23:36:00 00:23:41:00  Kairos is the symbol of time, but more precisely opportunity which can easily escape us.

184 00:23:42:00 00:23:51:00 Kairos is constantly flying because he has wings and we must catch him by the lock of his hair.

185 00:23:52:00 00:23:56:00  This subject of movement and unrest was in line with the artistic ideals of Hellenism.

186 00:23:57:00 00:24:01:00  Discovery of Kairos between the two world wars was a real international sensation in the art history. 

187 00:24:02:00 00:24:07:00 To make sure that Kairos won't become a sardine cover again, it is guarded by Benedictine nuns.

188 00:24:08:00 00:24:13:00 Their monastery of St. Nicholas has been in the same spot for almost thousand years.

189 00:24:14:00 00:24:20:00 It's an oasis of peace in the middle of city noise. The entrance is on the main street. 

190 00:24:21:00 00:24:26:00 Benedictine nuns are sworn to the life of purity, obedience and poverty.

191 00:24:27:00 00:24:31:00 In the shade behind the walls, five women are devoted to prayer.

192 00:24:32:00 00:24:36:00 As if the outside world doesn't exist.  

193 00:24:42:00 00:24:47:00 They will talk shortly with visitors of their museum, but they don't like to be captured on camera.

194 00:24:48:00 00:24:52:00  They leave the monastery only when they have to visit the doctor. 

195 00:24:54:00 00:24:58:00 The main square is in the same place from antic period.

196 00:24:59:00 00:25:07:00 Celebrations always took place there, but also processions, theatre performances and trials.

197 00:25:08:00 00:25:11:00 It has always been a meeting point.

198 00:25:12:00 00:25:18:00 Trials were held in the lodge. The stone table and relief called Allegory of justice remind us of it.

199 00:25:19:00 00:25:26:00 It was made by Nicholas of Florence and shows two saints most worshipped by the people of Trogir – St. John and St. Lawrence.

200 00:25:27:00 00:25:32:00 Delinquents were chained to the wall to be disgraced in public. 

201 00:25:40:00 00:25:44:00 Renaissance brought blooming of creativity and new ideas in Trogir as well.

202 00:25:45:00 00:25:50:00  In the museum of sacral art there are two canvases showing St. Jerome and St. John the Baptist.

203 00:25:51:00 00:25:56:00  The author of these paintings is   Gentile Bellini – one of the most famous 15th century Venetian painters.  

204 00:25:57:00 00:26:04:00 In the town museum there is a sculpture of Madonna with a baby made by  Ivan  Duknović from Trogir – the most famous  Renaissance sculptor in Croatia.

205 00:26:05:00 00:26:08:00 Trogir has remained the town of artists.

206 00:26:09:00 00:26:11:00 From time to time painters gather on the main square.

207 00:26:12:00 00:26:15:00 One of them is the young painter Sandra Radić Parać.

208 00:26:16:00 00:26:21:00 Painting is her life vocation, and Trogir a permanent inspiration.

209 00:26:22:00 00:26:27:00 It's a great honour and pride because Trogir is a UNESCO town.

210 00:26:28:00 00:26:37:00 It's a town full of monuments but also the town of living artists, of us who are living here and creating new works of art. We are the spirit of the town.

211 00:26:38:00 00:26:43:00 As the town of UNESCO we feel connected with the world, with all other UNESCO places.

212 00:26:44:00 00:26:48:00 It's like putting your finger in the
215 00:27:01:00 00:27:06:00 Sculptor  Ljubica Dragojević Buble makes goats of plaster and wires.

216 00:27:07:00 00:27:09:00  This animal is the symbol of Trogir.

217 00:27:10:00 00:27:14:00 In 3rd century BC, Greeks conquered the town and named it Tragurion.

218 00:27:15:00 00:27:20:00 In Old Greek it means the place where the goats are grazing.

219 00:27:21:00 00:27:22:00 Tragos means goat.

220 00:27:23:00 00:27:30:00 You can't remain cold to the stone, sculptures, old houses and all this history around you in Trogir.

221 00:27:31:00 00:27:41:00  As modern artists of Trogir we should leave to the new generations  pieces of art as rich and worthy as the richness of old monuments we are admiring today.

222 00:27:42:00 00:27:52:00 Trogir today is much livelier place than 25 years ago when I came to live here.

223 00:27:53:00 00:28:00:00 I shut myself in here and create. I don't really earn enough for normal living,

224 00:28:01:00 00:28:04:00 but I don't care about money.

225 00:28:05:00 00:28:08:00 Only my work, my art is important to me. 

226 00:28:11:00 00:28:17:00 This house on number 12 differs from the others in the Ivan Duknović street only because of its facade made of a slightly coarser stone.

227 00:28:18:00 00:28:22:00  But recent research discovered an archaeological sensation.

228 00:28:23:00 00:28:27:00 The same house has been here since the 9th century. More than a thousand years.

229 00:28:28:00 00:28:33:00 This is the oldest family house in Trogir and one of the oldest in the whole of Europe.

230 00:28:37:00 00:28:44:00 An urgent renovation is required for this 15th century house, a birthplace of the famous Trogir son – Petar Berislavić.

231 00:28:45:00 00:28:46:00   He defended Dalmatia against the Ottomans.

232 00:28:47:00 00:28:49:00 There is a relief with his figure in the town lodge.

233 00:28:50:00 00:28:55:00  It was made by Ivan Meštrović, the greatest 20th century Croatian sculptor.

234 00:28:57:00 00:29:00:00  With the passing of time, white stone takes on yellow sheen.

235 00:29:01:00 00:29:07:00 Houses and churches in Trogir are still being renovated  with the stone which has been cut for centuries from the nearby rock quarry in the village of Seget.

236 00:29:14:00 00:29:17:00 In the past stone was cut by hand.

237 00:29:18:00 00:29:24:00  Millions of hammer blows were necessary to break off the rectangular stone blocks few tons heavy.

238 00:29:26:00 00:29:30:00  Modern diamond saws cut the white stone like butter.

239 00:29:31:00 00:29:35:00 But, even today, it is the strength of human muscles which gives the stone its final form.

240 00:29:36:00 00:29:41:00  Mirko Medić uses a wedge and a hammer to form stone panels for covering facade of his house. 

241 00:29:45:00 00:29:50:00 Pasike.   Western part of the old town that used to be inhabited by the poor.  

242 00:29:51:00 00:29:56:00 Unlike the palaces in the centre, the houses here are more modest and have less floors and decorations.

243 00:29:57:00 00:30:01:00 Noblemen built these houses and rented them to plebeians.

244 00:30:02:00 00:30:03:00 There is no isolation typical of the rich.

245 00:30:04:00 00:30:08:00  Through the window  passers-by can smell the lunch as it is being cooked.

246 00:30:09:00 00:30:13:00 For centuries, workshops were located on the ground floor.

247 00:30:14:00 00:30:19:00 Today restaurants, bars and souvenir shops moved into these places…

248 00:30:21:00 00:30:23:00 I'm cleaning garlic.

249 00:30:24:00 00:30:29:00 When it's not in the water it is too dry and hard. Fingers are aching as you clean it. I do it like this, look!

250 00:30:30:00 00:30:33:00 What is the favourite meal of your guests?

251 00:30:34:00 00:30:39:00 Italians – they like spaghetti. Chinese prefer rice. Depends on the guest.

252 00:30:40:00 00:30:46:00 I cooked, washed, and finished all my work and now I'm waiting for 3 o'clock when my shift ends.

253 00:30:47:00 00:30:52:00 My two colleagues will come to prepare dinner. 

254 00:31:04:00 00:31:09:00 On the island under UNESCO protection there is even enough room for a football playground.

255 00:31:12:00 00:31:17:00 Are the children aware of their surroundings as they play football?

256 00:31:19:00 00:31:25:00  Grass playground is placed between the huge Kamerlengo tower and the smaller tower of St. Mark.   

257 00:31:29:00 00:31:35:00 Military tower Kamerlengo  used to protect the town from land and sea attacks.

258 00:31:36:00 00:31:41:00 It was built in the 15th century when Trogir was ruled by Venice and had a winged lion relief carved into it. 259 00:31:42:00 00:31:46:00  It was the symbol of St. Mark, protector of Venice.

260 00:31:47:00 00:31:49:00 There were many lions with wings all over the town.

261 00:31:50:00 00:31:58:00 During one night in  1932  Slavic nationalist destroyed the lions as a protest against Mussolini's dictatorship.

262 00:31:59:00 00:32:03:00 The event moved then Kingdom of Yugoslavia to the brink of war with Italy. 

263 00:32:04:00 00:32:08:00 Three damaged reliefs are now in the atrium of Dominican monastery.   

264 00:32:10:00 00:32:14:00 The history of Trogir is also preserved in many legends.

265 00:32:15:00 00:32:18:00 One of them is the 500-year old  legend about the sad bells.

266 00:32:19:00 00:32:26:00 Sisters from  Pajtoni family were famous for their beauty, but also of hedonistic parties with young nobles.   

267 00:32:44:00 00:32:47:00 On the Shrove Tuesday they were dancing with masks on their faces until late in the night.

268 00:32:48:00 00:32:51:00 They forgot about the midnight and Lent came.

269 00:32:52:00 00:32:55:00 The party had to be finished, but they didn't feel like going home.

270 00:32:56:00 00:33:01:00 Their punishment was severe.  Black masks became glued to heir faces.

271 00:33:03:00 00:33:08:00 In  a panic, they ran into a church to pray and confess.

272 00:33:29:00 00:33:34:00 They were praying for forgiveness of their sins until God heard their prayers  and the damnation was lifted from them.

273 00:33:35:00 00:33:39:00 Masks finally fell from their faces. 

274 00:33:48:00 00:33:54:00 In memory of these two sinners, cathedral bells announce  the Lent every Shrove Tuesday at midnight. 275 00:33:55:00 00:33:59:00 They are called sad bells or bells of warning.    

276 00:34:00:00 00:34:05:00 Bells were also ringing because of the belief that strong sound  would disperse grey, storm-bringing clouds.

277 00:34:06:00 00:34:11:00 Smetimes they also rang to send away the devils, witches and other evil forces.

278 00:34:18:00 00:34:20:00 In the past, every church had its own bell-ringer.

279 00:34:21:00 00:34:23:00 Today nobody rings by hand.

280 00:34:24:00 00:34:28:00 The town clock on the belfry of St. Sebastian was also modernised.    

281 00:34:29:00 00:34:33:00 Until the beginning of 19th century it was a sundial.

282 00:34:35:00 00:34:38:00 Then the first clock mechanism with hands came from Austria.

283 00:34:44:00 00:34:48:00 It had to be wound every day.

284 00:34:50:00 00:34:54:00 The last one who was doing this was  Ivo Tironi.

285 00:35:17:00 00:35:22:00 In ten years there wasn’t a single day in which he didn't climb to the top of the belfry in the late afternoon.

286 00:35:24:00 00:35:27:00 He was spinning the lever for three to four minutes.

287 00:35:28:00 00:35:32:00 The machine would get the power to precisely measure the time for the next 24 hours.

288 00:35:33:00 00:35:37:00 This is my clock. Truth be told, it is Trogir's town clock but it's also mine.

289 00:35:38:00 00:35:43:00 This is its heart. The heart that was beating when I was winding it.

290 00:35:44:00 00:35:48:00 It switched to electricity and today the sound it makes is completely metallic.

291 00:35:49:00 00:35:52:00 In the past, the sound of the bell sounded like the song of the second tenor.

292 00:35:53:00 00:35:59:00 Old people in Trogir used to say: Come on, little Tironi, go wind the clock. Don't let it stop. We won't know what time it is. 

293 00:36:00:00 00:36:04:00 Oh, it's you, Mr. Tironi. I didn't recognize you. 

294 00:36:05:00 00:36:09:00 We will all pass away, but the town clock will remain here forever.

295 00:36:10:00 00:36:13:00 Today the new heart beats in my clock.

296 00:36:14:00 00:36:20:00 It is tiny and in my opinion coarse, but it works and that's the most important thing.

297 00:36:23:00 00:36:29:00 As long as the laundry is dried in the narrow streets and courtyards,  the life will not stop.

298 00:36:33:00 00:36:37:00 From the Middle Ages on, local food is sold on the same spot.

299 00:36:38:00 00:36:43:00  Every morning, fresh fruits and vegetables are delivered from fertile fields around the town to the open market.

300 00:36:44:00 00:36:47:00 It is a splendour of colours and fragrances in every season.

301 00:36:48:00 00:36:51:00 Summer tastes like fresh figs, winter like dried ones.

302 00:36:55:00 00:37:00:00 People buy and sell here from dawn til dusk, and even longer in summer, until late in the evening.

303 00:37:01:00 00:37:07:00 This offer flares up all senses; on Trogir's market people buy things they never intended to in the first place.   

304 00:37:08:00 00:37:11:00 The finest delicacies are prepared from Mediterranean food.

305 00:37:12:00 00:37:15:00 Trogir is also well-known for its traditional cookies.    

306 00:37:16:00 00:37:18:00 Those are Trogir's rafioli.  

307 00:37:19:00 00:37:24:00 Marija Samuda bakes rafioli according to the recipe transmitted in her family from generation to generation.

308 00:37:25:00 00:37:30:00 Nobody knows when rafioli were baked for the first time, but it's known who baked them first.

309 00:37:31:00 00:37:35:00 If we are to believe the legend, it was a girl and her name was Rafiola.

310 00:37:37:00 00:37:40:00 Evil enemies imprisoned her in the Kamerlengo tower.

311 00:37:41:00 00:37:45:00 She was patiently waiting for her sweetheart and  spending all the time baking delicious cookies.

312 00:37:46:00 00:37:52:00 The young noble freed the girl and brought her to his home where she kept baking rafioli for him till the end of their lives.  

313 00:37:54:00 00:37:55:00 Dough should be thin.

314 00:37:56:00 00:37:59:00 It's filled with mixture of almonds and formed by hand.

315 00:38:01:00 00:38:04:00 Every housewife has her own little secret.  

316 00:38:05:00 00:38:07:00 I prick them a little.

317 00:38:12:00 00:38:15:00 Rafioli preserve the taste of old times.

318 00:38:16:00 00:38:19:00 Christmas table is unimaginable without them.

319 00:38:23:00 00:38:30:00 It's fine and very old, old-fashioned recipe which I've learned from my grandmother.

320 00:38:31:00 00:38:39:00 I will teach my daughter and my granddaughter how to make rafioli and our tradition will continue.

321 00:38:45:00 00:38:48:00 Wow, they are delicious!


322 00:38:51:00 00:38:56:00 All the traffic between the mainland and island of Čiovo goes over two stone bridges.

 323 00:38:57:00 00:39:03:00 Every day thousands of cars pass close to the old town centre and cathedral.

324 00:39:04:00 00:39:09:00 Few years ago a  new wooden bridge over the channel was built.

325 00:39:14:00 00:39:18:00  With warm spring days tourist the world over come to Trogir.

326 00:39:19:00 00:39:26:00 Till the end of summer thousands of people will walk through these streets, experience their own unbelievable moments of vacation and relaxation,

327 00:39:27:00 00:39:34:00 inhale the air smelling of salt, meet new friends… Maybe they will come back next summer.

328 00:39:40:00 00:39:42:00 Mediterranean attractive as a magnet.

329 00:39:43:00 00:39:45:00 Croatia on the throne of Mediterranean tourist map.

330 00:39:46:00 00:39:48:00 Dalmatia – its magical south.

331 00:39:49:00 00:39:51:00 And Trogir – a special place.

332 00:39:52:00 00:39:55:00 The destination for the most spoiled guests. Not by chance.

333 00:39:56:00 00:39:59:00 Sailors knew that already in Antiquity.

334 00:40:00:00 00:40:03:00 In the past merchants and invaders came from far away on their ships.

335 00:40:04:00 00:40:09:00 Today tourists, modern nomads, are using them to sail around Dalmatian towns and islands.

336 00:40:13:00 00:40:15:00 There's no life on the sea without sailing.  

337 00:40:16:00 00:40:19:00 It's a seductive game of wind and waves.

338 00:40:20:00 00:40:22:00 An introduction to a warm summer night.

339 00:40:29:00 00:40:33:00 All day and all night ships are docked at the Trogir seafront.

340 00:40:34:00 00:40:38:00 Reflector lights don't let stone walls cool down.  

341 00:40:50:00 00:40:53:00  

When tourists leave, Trogir is left to its inhabitants.

342 00:40:54:00 00:40:58:00 Rhythm of the town calms down. Becomes slower and more silent.

343 00:40:59:00 00:41:04:00 As if the town is resting from summer crowds and all the people who rested in it.

344 00:41:05:00 00:41:08:00 Nevertheless, Trogir lives the year round.

345 00:41:09:00 00:41:14:00 It hasn't been transformed into stone facades like some other touristic places on Mediterranean.

346 00:41:15:00 00:41:19:00 It didn't become a tourist playground. It hasn’t lost its soul.

347 00:41:21:00 00:41:23:00 The secret of life isn't written in stone.

348 00:41:24:00 00:41:25:00 It is the people who know it.

349 00:41:26:00 00:41:28:00 They will tell you all about it during the morning's coffee. 

350 00:41:47:00 00:41:52:00 Come on guys, go home. I'm working early in the morning.




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