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-Lea, Oriana and Laura
2
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are three teenage girls
who like shopping.
3
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They're looking for clothes.
fashion and cheap,
4
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typically the target
audience of H&M.
5
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-Look at this color.
6
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-She's super pretty.
-A little crush.
7
00:00:30,969 --> 00:00:33,059
-How you choose
your clothes?
8
00:00:33,259 --> 00:00:35,499
The first criterion.
-If it's beautiful.
9
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-Yes.
-The price, too.
10
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-Yeah.
11
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-Is it better when it's cheap?
12
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All together
-Yes.
13
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-Cheap, it's less than ten francs
the shirt,
14
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and that was synonymous with
of Made in China.
15
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-Made in Ethiopia.
16
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-Did you know that clothes
were produced in Ethiopia?
17
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-No.
18
00:00:59,105 --> 00:01:01,254
-It's important. It's important,
the origin of the garment?
19
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-I never paid attention.
-I don't look at the labels.
20
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-When I buy something, it doesn't
depend on where it comes from.
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-I don't think so.
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-Yes, it's written there.
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-Right there.
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-H&M is one of the brands
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who buys the most clothes
made in Ethiopia.
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With 22 million in turnover
per year, he's a heavyweight.
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In addition, the company claims
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irreproachable ethics.
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It is clearly written
on its online sales site.
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-Can you read, Oriane?
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-"All our products are manufactured
by independent suppliers,
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in developing countries."
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"Our company contributes to
job creation
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and empowerment
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of the populations,
especially women,
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to lift them out of poverty."
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"All suppliers and
factories must sign our
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"Sustainability
Commitment",
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which includes
requirements for fairer
40
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wages and good working
conditions for all."
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"We employ staff in
our global production
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offices to ensure this
commitment is met."
43
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-What do you understand
about this text?
44
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-That the workers
are well treated.
45
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-Yes, good production,
good collaboration
46
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with the employees.
47
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-They are well paid
and it allows them to get out
48
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on the poor side of the country,
to make money,
49
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to have better
living conditions.
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-Does this make you want to buy?
51
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-Yes.
-Yes.
52
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-H&M promises ethical products
and is committed to
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to be checked
that its independent suppliers
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established in the countries
under development
55
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are also meeting these commitments.
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We're going to Addis Ababa,
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to verify
what's going on in the field.
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For a few years now,
Ethiopia presents itself
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like the new Eldorado
in the clothing industry.
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The country rolls
out the red carpet
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to foreign investors.
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The effect was immediate.
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Ethiopia has one of the strongest
economic growth of the world.
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Its GDP is rising
in a spectacular way.
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The most important park dedicated
to the manufacture of clothing
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is 270 km to the south
from Addis Ababa.
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At the exit of
the capital,
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the building sites are growing,
clues of this economic explosion.
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There are also
a brand new railroad.
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00:04:03,049 --> 00:04:04,769
Or that highway.
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But we must quickly qualify.
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The country is starting
from a very low base.
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Last year, he was
among the last in the world
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00:04:13,088 --> 00:04:16,968
in terms of index
of human development.
75
00:04:19,613 --> 00:04:22,933
Near the capital,
plunged into rural Ethiopia,
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almost medieval, makes it the
true face of the country.
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Hawassa Industrial Park
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is a copy of the models
Chinese industrial companies.
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It cost 250 million francs
to the Ethiopian government,
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who put these infrastructures
81
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available
foreign investors.
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The Deputy Director of the Park
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gives us some figures.
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-Hawassa Park factories
are all busy
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by foreign companies,
most of them Asian.
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00:05:30,327 --> 00:05:33,447
These intermediaries
receive orders,
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supply major brands.
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For example, H&M, Calvin Klein,
Tommy Hilfiger and Levi's.
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These marks come from
of an official list.
90
00:06:04,972 --> 00:06:06,567
-It's 6:00 p.m.
91
00:06:06,812 --> 00:06:10,013
The 25,000 female workers
leave the factories.
92
00:06:10,493 --> 00:06:13,133
It's an endless human wave.
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00:06:47,658 --> 00:06:50,357
-To hear it,
it's a real success story.
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And yet, by discussing
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in the streets of Hawassa,
the inhabitants
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are much less enthusiastic.
97
00:07:03,546 --> 00:07:06,727
-The cost of living
has increased significantly.
98
00:07:08,424 --> 00:07:13,424
For example, to rent an apartment,
it's much more expensive.
99
00:07:14,760 --> 00:07:17,984
When I first arrived in Hawassa,
six years ago,
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I paid 200 birrs for a room.
101
00:07:22,196 --> 00:07:26,707
Now it's between 1,700
and 1,800 birrs per month.
102
00:07:26,963 --> 00:07:30,264
-In six years, the price of
rentals has skyrocketed.
103
00:07:30,612 --> 00:07:32,542
The rooms cost
nine times more expensive.
104
00:07:34,544 --> 00:07:37,415
-The industrial park is good,
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because it created
employment opportunities.
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But the number of hours worked
by workers
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and the salary they receive
is not balanced.
108
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Nevertheless, job creation
is a benefit.
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-The investors are coming
of developed countries.
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I know some of them well,
that have come a long way.
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They create jobs, it's positive
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and an opportunity
for poor people.
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We know we're not
a developed country.
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For us,
it's a good place to start.
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00:08:19,448 --> 00:08:22,528
But they do
billions of dollars in profits,
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they should improve
salaries without discussion.
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Even the government should not
have to put pressure on them.
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As they make a profit,
they have to raise salaries.
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-Nafkot is 18 years old, she left
her family a year ago.
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to work in a factory
of Hawassa, which supplies H&M.
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She testifies anonymously
for fear of retaliation.
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We will not give the name
of the supplier who employs him.
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-That's the tap we use:
there is no water.
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-22 people live
in these barracks
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and share the common areas.
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-This is our kitchen,
we all use it.
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There, the oven in which
we cook the patties.
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This is what it looks like
our toilets.
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We also take a shower here.
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We bring the water with the bucket,
and after we wash,
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we run the water in this hole.
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-Nafkot was full of hope
by finding this job.
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Today, she's disillusioned, she
lives in extreme precariousness.
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She must share this
tiny room with her cousin.
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-I receive 750 birrs a month.
136
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-When she works really well,
she can earn up to 34 frs
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00:10:37,991 --> 00:10:39,129
per month through bonuses.
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But even for Ethiopia,
it's below the subsistence minimum.
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-Because the cost of
living is very high
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I don't have enough to live on.
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00:10:50,343 --> 00:10:55,046
At the factory, I also pay
for the canteen.
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-A meal is 20 birrs.
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There's another one.
which is cheaper, at 15 birrs.
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00:11:06,848 --> 00:11:11,568
-The 15 birrs meal is only not
very good, the one with 20 birrs
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is better.
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00:11:13,488 --> 00:11:17,517
Sometimes,
I take my meal with me.
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00:11:21,883 --> 00:11:23,742
-It would take 2,500 birrs.
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00:11:26,208 --> 00:11:30,579
-It would require 84.30 francs
per month to live with dignity.
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00:11:30,715 --> 00:11:32,631
Nafkot makes three times less.
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-In total, I paid 300 birrs.
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00:11:46,885 --> 00:11:51,728
There is coal,
oil, oil, oil
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00:11:51,928 --> 00:11:55,968
for hair, soap,
salt, chilli pepper
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00:11:56,168 --> 00:11:58,577
dried peas,
sugar and onions.
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00:11:59,744 --> 00:12:01,933
-Basic food in Ethiopia
is the injera,
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the cake that goes with it
all dishes.
156
00:12:04,280 --> 00:12:07,193
This costs 10 francs per month.
157
00:12:10,128 --> 00:12:13,728
-My salary
does not allow me such a luxury.
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00:12:17,238 --> 00:12:21,928
-No more, but sometimes,
my cousin can buy some.
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00:12:30,662 --> 00:12:33,588
-If I need a piece of clothing,
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I buy my food on credit
at the grocery store.
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I keep this money
and then I pay back afterwards
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with the next salary.
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That's the way it is.
that I can buy clothes.
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-Nafkot works 50 hours
per week.
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She sews jeans buttons
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from 07:00 to 18:00.
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-I don't know.
168
00:13:19,148 --> 00:13:23,848
-So in this case, this
they pay me is really not much.
169
00:13:25,440 --> 00:13:26,644
-Nafkot earns
170
00:13:26,922 --> 00:13:30,048
just over one franc a day
for ten hours of work.
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00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:33,076
How to justify a salary
so unworthy?
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00:13:33,291 --> 00:13:37,758
We have the list
of Hawassa's suppliers,
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and we're trying
to contact them.
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We made all the contacts
of the list.
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None of them have opened their
doors; we've never got past
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00:14:29,688 --> 00:14:32,728
the reception,
even as a discreet camera.
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-The only supplier who called back,
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is to say no.
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00:14:50,248 --> 00:14:54,612
We are not welcome
in Hawassa Industrial Park.
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Return to Addis Ababa.
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00:14:59,102 --> 00:15:01,197
The Minister of
Industry is delighted
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to present his country's
industrialization program to us.
183
00:15:35,808 --> 00:15:40,608
-When the questions become clearer,
embarrassment becomes perceptible.
184
00:17:14,716 --> 00:17:16,864
-There are few recent images
of what's going on.
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00:17:17,088 --> 00:17:19,523
behind the doors of the hangars.
186
00:17:22,274 --> 00:17:25,681
They are mainly archives
on YouTube,
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00:17:25,849 --> 00:17:28,491
who praise the development
to the work of the workers.
188
00:17:40,128 --> 00:17:43,728
-This report was broadcast
one year after the inauguration
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00:17:43,882 --> 00:17:46,504
of the industrial park
by a Chinese TV channel,
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00:17:46,822 --> 00:17:48,364
known for its propaganda.
191
00:17:53,738 --> 00:17:55,893
The reality is more brutal.
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00:17:56,301 --> 00:17:57,928
Five young female workers
entrust it to us.
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00:17:58,128 --> 00:18:00,168
We meet them again in the evening.
194
00:18:00,368 --> 00:18:03,685
They work in different countries.
Hawassa plants, some of which
195
00:18:03,742 --> 00:18:05,068
provide H&M.
196
00:18:05,238 --> 00:18:08,481
They are anonymous
for security reasons.
197
00:18:14,264 --> 00:18:19,547
-Aside from the low salary,
the work is really very hard.
198
00:18:25,999 --> 00:18:27,528
-Yes, sometimes he screams.
199
00:18:27,728 --> 00:18:32,168
For example, if the objective
is to produce 80 pieces per hour,
200
00:18:32,368 --> 00:18:35,488
and we don't reach it,
he yells at us.
201
00:18:37,648 --> 00:18:40,248
-I received 750 birrs per month.
202
00:18:40,448 --> 00:18:44,088
Now, after two years,
I receive 1,000 birrs.
203
00:18:44,288 --> 00:18:45,928
-Me, 850.
204
00:18:46,128 --> 00:18:50,568
It was 750 in the first year.
and they added 100 birrs.
205
00:18:51,373 --> 00:18:52,518
-750.
206
00:18:52,983 --> 00:18:56,350
I haven't done a year.
207
00:18:56,375 --> 00:19:01,418
I've only been working
for five months.
208
00:19:02,848 --> 00:19:04,448
-I make 750.
209
00:19:04,648 --> 00:19:07,168
-I've been making 750
in the last two years.
210
00:19:07,368 --> 00:19:08,736
They didn't give me a raise.
211
00:19:10,153 --> 00:19:13,448
-With one franc a day,
they are forced to live
212
00:19:13,648 --> 00:19:15,288
as four in 12 m2.
213
00:19:18,488 --> 00:19:23,968
-If we go back to our villages,
they will say about us:
214
00:19:24,168 --> 00:19:30,328
"She was fired, she did
something wrong, she stole."
215
00:19:30,528 --> 00:19:33,048
-Impossible to leave right away.
216
00:19:33,248 --> 00:19:35,688
-We thought we'd wait
217
00:19:35,888 --> 00:19:40,048
two years and see,
but there is no change.
218
00:19:41,088 --> 00:19:45,608
-Of all the girls who
came at the same time as us,
219
00:19:45,808 --> 00:19:49,216
four have already returned
because the work is too hard.
220
00:19:49,307 --> 00:19:51,722
From my village,
I'm the only one still here.
221
00:19:55,815 --> 00:19:57,913
-Yes, I'm very angry.
222
00:19:57,938 --> 00:20:04,408
We have a job, but we are not
financially self-sufficient.
223
00:20:04,608 --> 00:20:08,608
We should always ask
to help our families.
224
00:20:09,368 --> 00:20:12,488
When they recruited us,
they told us
225
00:20:12,688 --> 00:20:15,016
that we wouldn't
have any expenses,
226
00:20:15,029 --> 00:20:17,368
that everything would
be taken care of,
227
00:20:17,579 --> 00:20:22,139
that we would work here and
that we could help our families.
228
00:20:22,328 --> 00:20:25,377
But we have nothing, we can't even
take responsibility for ourselves.
229
00:20:27,543 --> 00:20:29,515
-It is the government
that is in charge
230
00:20:29,765 --> 00:20:32,008
of recruitment
in the villages and offers
231
00:20:32,208 --> 00:20:34,572
the workforce
to factory owners.
232
00:20:35,288 --> 00:20:38,164
And there are plenty
of little hands.
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00:20:38,516 --> 00:20:41,033
90% of the population
does not have a fixed job.
234
00:20:41,888 --> 00:20:46,634
The State has created a Commission
Ethiopian investment bank,
235
00:20:46,702 --> 00:20:49,740
an organization at the service of
foreign investors.
236
00:20:50,145 --> 00:20:52,688
They don't want
to meet us either.
237
00:21:03,702 --> 00:21:06,450
We insisted on
to get an interview,
238
00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:08,309
suddenly cancelled.
239
00:21:08,491 --> 00:21:10,350
We don't give up anything,
from the canteen
240
00:21:10,656 --> 00:21:12,096
of the EIC full of investors.
241
00:21:12,550 --> 00:21:16,848
We're being walked
around for hours.
242
00:21:17,007 --> 00:21:21,247
I will say that the Commission
Ethiopian Investment Bank
243
00:21:21,488 --> 00:21:24,014
refused to answer our questions.
244
00:21:45,248 --> 00:21:48,328
Clearly,
this is an embarrassing question.
245
00:21:48,528 --> 00:21:52,509
Because that's the reason why
which Ethiopia is attractive
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00:21:52,691 --> 00:21:54,244
for the clothing industry.
247
00:21:55,528 --> 00:21:57,488
In comparison, the workers
248
00:21:57,688 --> 00:22:00,168
are paid twelve times more in China
249
00:22:00,368 --> 00:22:02,233
and four times more in Bangladesh.
250
00:22:04,168 --> 00:22:05,608
What about the unions?
251
00:22:05,830 --> 00:22:10,507
We were in contact with the only
one that is not governmental.
252
00:22:10,938 --> 00:22:13,928
He also failed to meet with us.
in an incomprehensible way.
253
00:22:14,128 --> 00:22:15,648
But in the field
254
00:22:15,848 --> 00:22:17,468
there are no trade unions,
255
00:22:17,684 --> 00:22:19,781
the workers are alone
to defend themselves.
256
00:23:22,648 --> 00:23:26,768
-That's the shock argument.
foreign suppliers.
257
00:23:26,968 --> 00:23:31,968
They claim low productivity
to justify salaries
258
00:23:32,168 --> 00:23:33,608
below the subsistence minimum
259
00:23:33,808 --> 00:23:36,735
and the government doesn't
seem like much to fight for.
260
00:23:52,688 --> 00:23:54,888
-A beginning government,
261
00:23:55,088 --> 00:23:58,368
suppliers who benefit from it
and brands
262
00:23:58,568 --> 00:24:01,328
that close their eyes,
or even accomplices.
263
00:24:02,002 --> 00:24:04,288
We asked H&M
264
00:24:04,488 --> 00:24:08,766
before and after our trip
in Ethiopia.
265
00:24:09,993 --> 00:24:11,728
We explained to them
our investigation
266
00:24:11,928 --> 00:24:14,292
and what we have discovered.
267
00:24:14,490 --> 00:24:15,548
Despite this,
268
00:24:15,720 --> 00:24:19,940
H&M laconically refused
our interview requests.
269
00:24:29,649 --> 00:24:32,808
We showed the images
to teenage girls in Switzerland.
270
00:24:33,008 --> 00:24:37,483
They discover the conditions of
life of Nafkot who is the same age.
271
00:24:38,356 --> 00:24:41,120
-It's very small.
-They don't have any furniture.
272
00:24:41,145 --> 00:24:42,813
-Even the bed, look.
273
00:24:44,768 --> 00:24:46,477
-Do they sleep in the same bed?
274
00:24:49,057 --> 00:24:50,922
-What is it?
-Is it a hole?
275
00:24:52,128 --> 00:24:53,808
-It's the toilet.
276
00:24:54,008 --> 00:24:56,608
-What?
-Ah, that's the toilet.
277
00:24:56,808 --> 00:24:58,008
-OK.
278
00:24:59,408 --> 00:25:01,968
-This is the bathroom?
-That's it, that's it.
279
00:25:02,490 --> 00:25:03,648
Lea?
280
00:25:03,848 --> 00:25:06,248
What do you think of what you see?
281
00:25:06,448 --> 00:25:11,313
-I didn't think they had
such horrible conditions.
282
00:25:11,728 --> 00:25:12,928
It's.
283
00:25:13,893 --> 00:25:17,648
Their house is all open
and there's nothing closed.
284
00:25:17,848 --> 00:25:20,728
They don't even
necessarily have water.
285
00:25:20,928 --> 00:25:24,455
I knew that it existed.
I didn't know that to that extent.
286
00:25:24,627 --> 00:25:29,768
-I didn't think they
lived in a palace.
287
00:25:29,968 --> 00:25:34,888
But when you read the H&M website,
you does not expect them to live
288
00:25:35,088 --> 00:25:37,400
under conditions
so horrible,
289
00:25:37,624 --> 00:25:40,587
without running water,
without electricity.
290
00:25:40,997 --> 00:25:43,368
-The worst part is
that I think to myself
291
00:25:43,568 --> 00:25:47,698
by reading what they put on
on their website, us,
292
00:25:47,897 --> 00:25:50,768
we buy thinking
that people are treated well.
293
00:25:51,074 --> 00:25:53,585
So, we're thinking of doing
a gesture that is good
294
00:25:53,810 --> 00:25:55,945
because we bring
money to people.
295
00:25:56,209 --> 00:25:59,927
And now we see
that this is not the case.
296
00:25:59,952 --> 00:26:02,717
They live
in horrible conditions.
297
00:26:03,101 --> 00:26:05,248
You feel a little betrayed.
298
00:26:05,448 --> 00:26:10,768
Yeah, I don't know how
explain it, but it's really.
299
00:26:10,968 --> 00:26:12,168
I don't like it.
300
00:26:14,588 --> 00:26:18,488
-Ethiopia wants to industrialize
and it's an approach to support.
301
00:26:18,688 --> 00:26:21,928
But on which returns
can the country count?
302
00:26:22,128 --> 00:26:24,288
By taking advantage of
an exploited workforce
303
00:26:24,488 --> 00:26:28,968
the profit ends at the end of the
year at suppliers and brands,
304
00:26:29,181 --> 00:26:32,820
as H&M, whose stated ethics
is just a screen of
305
00:26:33,006 --> 00:26:34,871
unacceptable marketing.
1
00:00:06,222 --> 00:00:07,714
-Lea, Oriana and Laura
2
00:00:07,844 --> 00:00:09,906
are three teenage girls
who like shopping.
3
00:00:10,388 --> 00:00:12,758
They're looking for clothes.
fashion and cheap,
4
00:00:13,010 --> 00:00:15,570
typically the target
audience of H&M.
5
00:00:24,186 --> 00:00:25,662
-Look at this color.
6
00:00:25,761 --> 00:00:29,668
-She's super pretty.
-A little crush.
7
00:00:30,969 --> 00:00:33,059
-How you choose
your clothes?
8
00:00:33,259 --> 00:00:35,499
The first criterion.
-If it's beautiful.
9
00:00:35,699 --> 00:00:38,339
-Yes.
-The price, too.
10
00:00:38,539 --> 00:00:39,674
-Yeah.
11
00:00:39,709 --> 00:00:40,967
-Is it better when it's cheap?
12
00:00:41,093 --> 00:00:42,573
All together
-Yes.
13
00:00:44,817 --> 00:00:47,345
-Cheap, it's less than ten francs
the shirt,
14
00:00:47,478 --> 00:00:50,845
and that was synonymous with
of Made in China.
15
00:00:52,963 --> 00:00:54,883
-Made in Ethiopia.
16
00:00:55,122 --> 00:00:57,437
-Did you know that clothes
were produced in Ethiopia?
17
00:00:58,000 --> 00:00:59,080
-No.
18
00:00:59,105 --> 00:01:01,254
-It's important. It's important,
the origin of the garment?
19
00:01:01,831 --> 00:01:06,431
-I never paid attention.
-I don't look at the labels.
20
00:01:06,631 --> 00:01:11,151
-When I buy something, it doesn't
depend on where it comes from.
21
00:01:21,172 --> 00:01:22,492
-I don't think so.
22
00:01:22,684 --> 00:01:24,404
-Yes, it's written there.
23
00:01:24,580 --> 00:01:25,980
-Right there.
24
00:01:27,503 --> 00:01:29,583
-H&M is one of the brands
25
00:01:29,681 --> 00:01:32,033
who buys the most clothes
made in Ethiopia.
26
00:01:32,134 --> 00:01:35,919
With 22 million in turnover
per year, he's a heavyweight.
27
00:01:36,287 --> 00:01:38,287
In addition, the company claims
28
00:01:38,312 --> 00:01:41,257
irreproachable ethics.
29
00:01:41,690 --> 00:01:45,210
It is clearly written
on its online sales site.
30
00:01:46,077 --> 00:01:47,842
-Can you read, Oriane?
31
00:01:47,981 --> 00:01:53,101
-"All our products are manufactured
by independent suppliers,
32
00:01:53,301 --> 00:01:55,661
in developing countries."
33
00:01:55,861 --> 00:01:59,621
"Our company contributes to
job creation
34
00:01:59,821 --> 00:02:01,621
and empowerment
35
00:02:01,821 --> 00:02:04,981
of the populations,
especially women,
36
00:02:05,181 --> 00:02:07,301
to lift them out of poverty."
37
00:02:07,561 --> 00:02:10,232
"All suppliers and
factories must sign our
38
00:02:10,463 --> 00:02:12,674
"Sustainability
Commitment",
39
00:02:12,825 --> 00:02:15,978
which includes
requirements for fairer
40
00:02:16,049 --> 00:02:19,431
wages and good working
conditions for all."
41
00:02:19,941 --> 00:02:21,941
"We employ staff in
our global production
42
00:02:21,966 --> 00:02:23,686
offices to ensure this
commitment is met."
43
00:02:27,023 --> 00:02:28,560
-What do you understand
about this text?
44
00:02:28,585 --> 00:02:30,648
-That the workers
are well treated.
45
00:02:30,828 --> 00:02:34,955
-Yes, good production,
good collaboration
46
00:02:34,985 --> 00:02:36,312
with the employees.
47
00:02:36,509 --> 00:02:40,173
-They are well paid
and it allows them to get out
48
00:02:40,713 --> 00:02:44,033
on the poor side of the country,
to make money,
49
00:02:45,074 --> 00:02:46,939
to have better
living conditions.
50
00:02:47,273 --> 00:02:48,999
-Does this make you want to buy?
51
00:02:49,061 --> 00:02:50,421
-Yes.
-Yes.
52
00:02:53,311 --> 00:02:56,431
-H&M promises ethical products
and is committed to
53
00:02:56,551 --> 00:02:58,613
to be checked
that its independent suppliers
54
00:02:58,638 --> 00:03:00,382
established in the countries
under development
55
00:03:00,500 --> 00:03:02,819
are also meeting these commitments.
56
00:03:08,545 --> 00:03:11,185
We're going to Addis Ababa,
57
00:03:11,607 --> 00:03:13,126
to verify
what's going on in the field.
58
00:03:16,687 --> 00:03:19,033
For a few years now,
Ethiopia presents itself
59
00:03:19,058 --> 00:03:21,676
like the new Eldorado
in the clothing industry.
60
00:03:22,087 --> 00:03:24,807
The country rolls
out the red carpet
61
00:03:24,912 --> 00:03:27,552
to foreign investors.
62
00:03:30,557 --> 00:03:32,305
The effect was immediate.
63
00:03:32,367 --> 00:03:35,286
Ethiopia has one of the strongest
economic growth of the world.
64
00:03:35,646 --> 00:03:40,400
Its GDP is rising
in a spectacular way.
65
00:03:44,329 --> 00:03:47,929
The most important park dedicated
to the manufacture of clothing
66
00:03:48,145 --> 00:03:51,817
is 270 km to the south
from Addis Ababa.
67
00:03:53,202 --> 00:03:54,721
At the exit of
the capital,
68
00:03:54,839 --> 00:03:58,644
the building sites are growing,
clues of this economic explosion.
69
00:04:00,004 --> 00:04:02,101
There are also
a brand new railroad.
70
00:04:03,049 --> 00:04:04,769
Or that highway.
71
00:04:07,254 --> 00:04:08,505
But we must quickly qualify.
72
00:04:08,568 --> 00:04:10,155
The country is starting
from a very low base.
73
00:04:10,180 --> 00:04:13,008
Last year, he was
among the last in the world
74
00:04:13,088 --> 00:04:16,968
in terms of index
of human development.
75
00:04:19,613 --> 00:04:22,933
Near the capital,
plunged into rural Ethiopia,
76
00:04:23,362 --> 00:04:26,884
almost medieval, makes it the
true face of the country.
77
00:04:35,173 --> 00:04:36,720
Hawassa Industrial Park
78
00:04:37,024 --> 00:04:39,358
is a copy of the models
Chinese industrial companies.
79
00:04:39,654 --> 00:04:42,885
It cost 250 million francs
to the Ethiopian government,
80
00:04:43,218 --> 00:04:45,218
who put these infrastructures
81
00:04:45,379 --> 00:04:47,072
available
foreign investors.
82
00:04:47,339 --> 00:04:48,772
The Deputy Director of the Park
83
00:04:48,797 --> 00:04:50,383
gives us some figures.
84
00:05:24,237 --> 00:05:25,555
-Hawassa Park factories
are all busy
85
00:05:25,771 --> 00:05:29,611
by foreign companies,
most of them Asian.
86
00:05:30,327 --> 00:05:33,447
These intermediaries
receive orders,
87
00:05:33,647 --> 00:05:36,047
supply major brands.
88
00:05:36,313 --> 00:05:40,170
For example, H&M, Calvin Klein,
Tommy Hilfiger and Levi's.
89
00:05:40,367 --> 00:05:43,567
These marks come from
of an official list.
90
00:06:04,972 --> 00:06:06,567
-It's 6:00 p.m.
91
00:06:06,812 --> 00:06:10,013
The 25,000 female workers
leave the factories.
92
00:06:10,493 --> 00:06:13,133
It's an endless human wave.
93
00:06:47,658 --> 00:06:50,357
-To hear it,
it's a real success story.
94
00:06:54,606 --> 00:06:56,110
And yet, by discussing
95
00:06:56,135 --> 00:06:58,142
in the streets of Hawassa,
the inhabitants
96
00:06:58,192 --> 00:07:00,649
are much less enthusiastic.
97
00:07:03,546 --> 00:07:06,727
-The cost of living
has increased significantly.
98
00:07:08,424 --> 00:07:13,424
For example, to rent an apartment,
it's much more expensive.
99
00:07:14,760 --> 00:07:17,984
When I first arrived in Hawassa,
six years ago,
100
00:07:18,053 --> 00:07:21,321
I paid 200 birrs for a room.
101
00:07:22,196 --> 00:07:26,707
Now it's between 1,700
and 1,800 birrs per month.
102
00:07:26,963 --> 00:07:30,264
-In six years, the price of
rentals has skyrocketed.
103
00:07:30,612 --> 00:07:32,542
The rooms cost
nine times more expensive.
104
00:07:34,544 --> 00:07:37,415
-The industrial park is good,
105
00:07:37,568 --> 00:07:41,208
because it created
employment opportunities.
106
00:07:41,408 --> 00:07:45,408
But the number of hours worked
by workers
107
00:07:45,608 --> 00:07:49,448
and the salary they receive
is not balanced.
108
00:07:49,648 --> 00:07:53,328
Nevertheless, job creation
is a benefit.
109
00:07:56,561 --> 00:08:00,568
-The investors are coming
of developed countries.
110
00:08:00,768 --> 00:08:04,208
I know some of them well,
that have come a long way.
111
00:08:04,408 --> 00:08:07,694
They create jobs, it's positive
112
00:08:07,808 --> 00:08:11,328
and an opportunity
for poor people.
113
00:08:11,528 --> 00:08:15,488
We know we're not
a developed country.
114
00:08:15,688 --> 00:08:19,248
For us,
it's a good place to start.
115
00:08:19,448 --> 00:08:22,528
But they do
billions of dollars in profits,
116
00:08:22,728 --> 00:08:26,808
they should improve
salaries without discussion.
117
00:08:27,008 --> 00:08:31,848
Even the government should not
have to put pressure on them.
118
00:08:32,048 --> 00:08:36,208
As they make a profit,
they have to raise salaries.
119
00:08:44,592 --> 00:08:48,457
-Nafkot is 18 years old, she left
her family a year ago.
120
00:08:48,575 --> 00:08:52,495
to work in a factory
of Hawassa, which supplies H&M.
121
00:08:52,688 --> 00:08:55,732
She testifies anonymously
for fear of retaliation.
122
00:08:56,528 --> 00:09:00,305
We will not give the name
of the supplier who employs him.
123
00:09:00,717 --> 00:09:04,194
-That's the tap we use:
there is no water.
124
00:09:06,971 --> 00:09:09,061
-22 people live
in these barracks
125
00:09:09,204 --> 00:09:10,743
and share the common areas.
126
00:09:14,448 --> 00:09:18,568
-This is our kitchen,
we all use it.
127
00:09:22,488 --> 00:09:26,208
There, the oven in which
we cook the patties.
128
00:09:39,135 --> 00:09:42,688
This is what it looks like
our toilets.
129
00:09:42,778 --> 00:09:45,688
We also take a shower here.
130
00:09:46,199 --> 00:09:52,048
We bring the water with the bucket,
and after we wash,
131
00:09:52,248 --> 00:09:57,648
we run the water in this hole.
132
00:10:01,258 --> 00:10:04,048
-Nafkot was full of hope
by finding this job.
133
00:10:04,248 --> 00:10:07,501
Today, she's disillusioned, she
lives in extreme precariousness.
134
00:10:11,648 --> 00:10:15,068
She must share this
tiny room with her cousin.
135
00:10:28,282 --> 00:10:32,171
-I receive 750 birrs a month.
136
00:10:34,051 --> 00:10:37,966
-When she works really well,
she can earn up to 34 frs
137
00:10:37,991 --> 00:10:39,129
per month through bonuses.
138
00:10:39,220 --> 00:10:42,373
But even for Ethiopia,
it's below the subsistence minimum.
139
00:10:43,461 --> 00:10:45,975
-Because the cost of
living is very high
140
00:10:46,839 --> 00:10:49,628
I don't have enough to live on.
141
00:10:50,343 --> 00:10:55,046
At the factory, I also pay
for the canteen.
142
00:10:57,387 --> 00:10:59,400
-A meal is 20 birrs.
143
00:10:59,528 --> 00:11:04,208
There's another one.
which is cheaper, at 15 birrs.
144
00:11:06,848 --> 00:11:11,568
-The 15 birrs meal is only not
very good, the one with 20 birrs
145
00:11:11,768 --> 00:11:13,288
is better.
146
00:11:13,488 --> 00:11:17,517
Sometimes,
I take my meal with me.
147
00:11:21,883 --> 00:11:23,742
-It would take 2,500 birrs.
148
00:11:26,208 --> 00:11:30,579
-It would require 84.30 francs
per month to live with dignity.
149
00:11:30,715 --> 00:11:32,631
Nafkot makes three times less.
150
00:11:44,088 --> 00:11:46,749
-In total, I paid 300 birrs.
151
00:11:46,885 --> 00:11:51,728
There is coal,
oil, oil, oil
152
00:11:51,928 --> 00:11:55,968
for hair, soap,
salt, chilli pepper
153
00:11:56,168 --> 00:11:58,577
dried peas,
sugar and onions.
154
00:11:59,744 --> 00:12:01,933
-Basic food in Ethiopia
is the injera,
155
00:12:02,045 --> 00:12:04,019
the cake that goes with it
all dishes.
156
00:12:04,280 --> 00:12:07,193
This costs 10 francs per month.
157
00:12:10,128 --> 00:12:13,728
-My salary
does not allow me such a luxury.
158
00:12:17,238 --> 00:12:21,928
-No more, but sometimes,
my cousin can buy some.
159
00:12:30,662 --> 00:12:33,588
-If I need a piece of clothing,
160
00:12:34,686 --> 00:12:39,248
I buy my food on credit
at the grocery store.
161
00:12:39,448 --> 00:12:44,048
I keep this money
and then I pay back afterwards
162
00:12:44,248 --> 00:12:46,728
with the next salary.
163
00:12:46,928 --> 00:12:51,168
That's the way it is.
that I can buy clothes.
164
00:12:55,552 --> 00:12:57,968
-Nafkot works 50 hours
per week.
165
00:12:58,125 --> 00:13:00,019
She sews jeans buttons
166
00:13:00,044 --> 00:13:02,309
from 07:00 to 18:00.
167
00:13:11,208 --> 00:13:12,688
-I don't know.
168
00:13:19,148 --> 00:13:23,848
-So in this case, this
they pay me is really not much.
169
00:13:25,440 --> 00:13:26,644
-Nafkot earns
170
00:13:26,922 --> 00:13:30,048
just over one franc a day
for ten hours of work.
171
00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:33,076
How to justify a salary
so unworthy?
172
00:13:33,291 --> 00:13:37,758
We have the list
of Hawassa's suppliers,
173
00:13:38,019 --> 00:13:42,395
and we're trying
to contact them.
174
00:14:23,832 --> 00:14:26,048
We made all the contacts
of the list.
175
00:14:26,248 --> 00:14:29,488
None of them have opened their
doors; we've never got past
176
00:14:29,688 --> 00:14:32,728
the reception,
even as a discreet camera.
177
00:14:46,212 --> 00:14:48,182
-The only supplier who called back,
178
00:14:48,408 --> 00:14:50,048
is to say no.
179
00:14:50,248 --> 00:14:54,612
We are not welcome
in Hawassa Industrial Park.
180
00:14:56,437 --> 00:14:57,866
Return to Addis Ababa.
181
00:14:59,102 --> 00:15:01,197
The Minister of
Industry is delighted
182
00:15:01,222 --> 00:15:05,219
to present his country's
industrialization program to us.
183
00:15:35,808 --> 00:15:40,608
-When the questions become clearer,
embarrassment becomes perceptible.
184
00:17:14,716 --> 00:17:16,864
-There are few recent images
of what's going on.
185
00:17:17,088 --> 00:17:19,523
behind the doors of the hangars.
186
00:17:22,274 --> 00:17:25,681
They are mainly archives
on YouTube,
187
00:17:25,849 --> 00:17:28,491
who praise the development
to the work of the workers.
188
00:17:40,128 --> 00:17:43,728
-This report was broadcast
one year after the inauguration
189
00:17:43,882 --> 00:17:46,504
of the industrial park
by a Chinese TV channel,
190
00:17:46,822 --> 00:17:48,364
known for its propaganda.
191
00:17:53,738 --> 00:17:55,893
The reality is more brutal.
192
00:17:56,301 --> 00:17:57,928
Five young female workers
entrust it to us.
193
00:17:58,128 --> 00:18:00,168
We meet them again in the evening.
194
00:18:00,368 --> 00:18:03,685
They work in different countries.
Hawassa plants, some of which
195
00:18:03,742 --> 00:18:05,068
provide H&M.
196
00:18:05,238 --> 00:18:08,481
They are anonymous
for security reasons.
197
00:18:14,264 --> 00:18:19,547
-Aside from the low salary,
the work is really very hard.
198
00:18:25,999 --> 00:18:27,528
-Yes, sometimes he screams.
199
00:18:27,728 --> 00:18:32,168
For example, if the objective
is to produce 80 pieces per hour,
200
00:18:32,368 --> 00:18:35,488
and we don't reach it,
he yells at us.
201
00:18:37,648 --> 00:18:40,248
-I received 750 birrs per month.
202
00:18:40,448 --> 00:18:44,088
Now, after two years,
I receive 1,000 birrs.
203
00:18:44,288 --> 00:18:45,928
-Me, 850.
204
00:18:46,128 --> 00:18:50,568
It was 750 in the first year.
and they added 100 birrs.
205
00:18:51,373 --> 00:18:52,518
-750.
206
00:18:52,983 --> 00:18:56,350
I haven't done a year.
207
00:18:56,375 --> 00:19:01,418
I've only been working
for five months.
208
00:19:02,848 --> 00:19:04,448
-I make 750.
209
00:19:04,648 --> 00:19:07,168
-I've been making 750
in the last two years.
210
00:19:07,368 --> 00:19:08,736
They didn't give me a raise.
211
00:19:10,153 --> 00:19:13,448
-With one franc a day,
they are forced to live
212
00:19:13,648 --> 00:19:15,288
as four in 12 m2.
213
00:19:18,488 --> 00:19:23,968
-If we go back to our villages,
they will say about us:
214
00:19:24,168 --> 00:19:30,328
"She was fired, she did
something wrong, she stole."
215
00:19:30,528 --> 00:19:33,048
-Impossible to leave right away.
216
00:19:33,248 --> 00:19:35,688
-We thought we'd wait
217
00:19:35,888 --> 00:19:40,048
two years and see,
but there is no change.
218
00:19:41,088 --> 00:19:45,608
-Of all the girls who
came at the same time as us,
219
00:19:45,808 --> 00:19:49,216
four have already returned
because the work is too hard.
220
00:19:49,307 --> 00:19:51,722
From my village,
I'm the only one still here.
221
00:19:55,815 --> 00:19:57,913
-Yes, I'm very angry.
222
00:19:57,938 --> 00:20:04,408
We have a job, but we are not
financially self-sufficient.
223
00:20:04,608 --> 00:20:08,608
We should always ask
to help our families.
224
00:20:09,368 --> 00:20:12,488
When they recruited us,
they told us
225
00:20:12,688 --> 00:20:15,016
that we wouldn't
have any expenses,
226
00:20:15,029 --> 00:20:17,368
that everything would
be taken care of,
227
00:20:17,579 --> 00:20:22,139
that we would work here and
that we could help our families.
228
00:20:22,328 --> 00:20:25,377
But we have nothing, we can't even
take responsibility for ourselves.
229
00:20:27,543 --> 00:20:29,515
-It is the government
that is in charge
230
00:20:29,765 --> 00:20:32,008
of recruitment
in the villages and offers
231
00:20:32,208 --> 00:20:34,572
the workforce
to factory owners.
232
00:20:35,288 --> 00:20:38,164
And there are plenty
of little hands.
233
00:20:38,516 --> 00:20:41,033
90% of the population
does not have a fixed job.
234
00:20:41,888 --> 00:20:46,634
The State has created a Commission
Ethiopian investment bank,
235
00:20:46,702 --> 00:20:49,740
an organization at the service of
foreign investors.
236
00:20:50,145 --> 00:20:52,688
They don't want
to meet us either.
237
00:21:03,702 --> 00:21:06,450
We insisted on
to get an interview,
238
00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:08,309
suddenly cancelled.
239
00:21:08,491 --> 00:21:10,350
We don't give up anything,
from the canteen
240
00:21:10,656 --> 00:21:12,096
of the EIC full of investors.
241
00:21:12,550 --> 00:21:16,848
We're being walked
around for hours.
242
00:21:17,007 --> 00:21:21,247
I will say that the Commission
Ethiopian Investment Bank
243
00:21:21,488 --> 00:21:24,014
refused to answer our questions.
244
00:21:45,248 --> 00:21:48,328
Clearly,
this is an embarrassing question.
245
00:21:48,528 --> 00:21:52,509
Because that's the reason why
which Ethiopia is attractive
246
00:21:52,691 --> 00:21:54,244
for the clothing industry.
247
00:21:55,528 --> 00:21:57,488
In comparison, the workers
248
00:21:57,688 --> 00:22:00,168
are paid twelve times more in China
249
00:22:00,368 --> 00:22:02,233
and four times more in Bangladesh.
250
00:22:04,168 --> 00:22:05,608
What about the unions?
251
00:22:05,830 --> 00:22:10,507
We were in contact with the only
one that is not governmental.
252
00:22:10,938 --> 00:22:13,928
He also failed to meet with us.
in an incomprehensible way.
253
00:22:14,128 --> 00:22:15,648
But in the field
254
00:22:15,848 --> 00:22:17,468
there are no trade unions,
255
00:22:17,684 --> 00:22:19,781
the workers are alone
to defend themselves.
256
00:23:22,648 --> 00:23:26,768
-That's the shock argument.
foreign suppliers.
257
00:23:26,968 --> 00:23:31,968
They claim low productivity
to justify salaries
258
00:23:32,168 --> 00:23:33,608
below the subsistence minimum
259
00:23:33,808 --> 00:23:36,735
and the government doesn't
seem like much to fight for.
260
00:23:52,688 --> 00:23:54,888
-A beginning government,
261
00:23:55,088 --> 00:23:58,368
suppliers who benefit from it
and brands
262
00:23:58,568 --> 00:24:01,328
that close their eyes,
or even accomplices.
263
00:24:02,002 --> 00:24:04,288
We asked H&M
264
00:24:04,488 --> 00:24:08,766
before and after our trip
in Ethiopia.
265
00:24:09,993 --> 00:24:11,728
We explained to them
our investigation
266
00:24:11,928 --> 00:24:14,292
and what we have discovered.
267
00:24:14,490 --> 00:24:15,548
Despite this,
268
00:24:15,720 --> 00:24:19,940
H&M laconically refused
our interview requests.
269
00:24:29,649 --> 00:24:32,808
We showed the images
to teenage girls in Switzerland.
270
00:24:33,008 --> 00:24:37,483
They discover the conditions of
life of Nafkot who is the same age.
271
00:24:38,356 --> 00:24:41,120
-It's very small.
-They don't have any furniture.
272
00:24:41,145 --> 00:24:42,813
-Even the bed, look.
273
00:24:44,768 --> 00:24:46,477
-Do they sleep in the same bed?
274
00:24:49,057 --> 00:24:50,922
-What is it?
-Is it a hole?
275
00:24:52,128 --> 00:24:53,808
-It's the toilet.
276
00:24:54,008 --> 00:24:56,608
-What?
-Ah, that's the toilet.
277
00:24:56,808 --> 00:24:58,008
-OK.
278
00:24:59,408 --> 00:25:01,968
-This is the bathroom?
-That's it, that's it.
279
00:25:02,490 --> 00:25:03,648
Lea?
280
00:25:03,848 --> 00:25:06,248
What do you think of what you see?
281
00:25:06,448 --> 00:25:11,313
-I didn't think they had
such horrible conditions.
282
00:25:11,728 --> 00:25:12,928
It's.
283
00:25:13,893 --> 00:25:17,648
Their house is all open
and there's nothing closed.
284
00:25:17,848 --> 00:25:20,728
They don't even
necessarily have water.
285
00:25:20,928 --> 00:25:24,455
I knew that it existed.
I didn't know that to that extent.
286
00:25:24,627 --> 00:25:29,768
-I didn't think they
lived in a palace.
287
00:25:29,968 --> 00:25:34,888
But when you read the H&M website,
you does not expect them to live
288
00:25:35,088 --> 00:25:37,400
under conditions
so horrible,
289
00:25:37,624 --> 00:25:40,587
without running water,
without electricity.
290
00:25:40,997 --> 00:25:43,368
-The worst part is
that I think to myself
291
00:25:43,568 --> 00:25:47,698
by reading what they put on
on their website, us,
292
00:25:47,897 --> 00:25:50,768
we buy thinking
that people are treated well.
293
00:25:51,074 --> 00:25:53,585
So, we're thinking of doing
a gesture that is good
294
00:25:53,810 --> 00:25:55,945
because we bring
money to people.
295
00:25:56,209 --> 00:25:59,927
And now we see
that this is not the case.
296
00:25:59,952 --> 00:26:02,717
They live
in horrible conditions.
297
00:26:03,101 --> 00:26:05,248
You feel a little betrayed.
298
00:26:05,448 --> 00:26:10,768
Yeah, I don't know how
explain it, but it's really.
299
00:26:10,968 --> 00:26:12,168
I don't like it.
300
00:26:14,588 --> 00:26:18,488
-Ethiopia wants to industrialize
and it's an approach to support.
301
00:26:18,688 --> 00:26:21,928
But on which returns
can the country count?
302
00:26:22,128 --> 00:26:24,288
By taking advantage of
an exploited workforce
303
00:26:24,488 --> 00:26:28,968
the profit ends at the end of the
year at suppliers and brands,
304
00:26:29,181 --> 00:26:32,820
as H&M, whose stated ethics
is just a screen of
305
00:26:33,006 --> 00:26:34,871
unacceptable marketing.