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DIALOGUE

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REPORTER

Nestled high in the mountains of northern India , Dharamshala is an Indian town with a Tibetan heart. Almost everyone who lives here comes from Tibet.

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REPORTER

The rising glass of the dungchen joins Tibetan oboes, drums and symbols, in an ancient musical meditation. Dharamshala is a Tibetan sanctuary for those whom China has driven out. Many arrive here after weeks of trekking through the Himalayan mountains dividing China and India. Buddist monks who stay in Tibet risk re-education camps, and worse. The Chinese authorities have singled out Tibet’s religion for decades of the harshest repression.

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REPORTER

In 40 years, Tibet has faced wave after wave of Chinese attack. Through labour camps, re-education, and non-stop political persecution. China has done everything it can to wipe out Tibetan identity. With Tibet gaining ground as America’s favourite human rights cause, and a succession of new Hollywood feature films which deal with Tibet, foreigners are flocking to Dharamshala as never before. The come to see a freer Tibet that can’t see elsewhere.

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Leading the American rush is Robert Thurman, father of U.S film star, Uma Thurman, he’s a former monk and studied with the Dalai Lama.

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ROBERT THURMAN

I can attest, having known him since he was 29 years of age, that he has made tremendous effort, with himself, He hasn’t just said, “well I’m the Dalai Lama, I’m the reincarnation and I’m god, then forget about it”. And so the Dalai Lama what emerges when someone has… sort of is looked to as the secular authority as well as the spiritual authority, you see. From the particular Buddhist perspective, that’s not a bad thing, it’s a good thing, because it’s not just the religious orthodoxy that is dominating, it’s a way of life.

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Behind the scenes of third world shabbiness, Dharamshala is finding itself playing host to superstars. Steven Segal, Brad Pitt, Richard Gere have all made pilgrimages here. Robert Thurman is the leading authority on Tibetan Buddhism. Dedicating his life to bringing the Tibetan cause to western consciousness.

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REPORTER

But the Tibetans are keen to emphasise that their religion is not for sale.

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DALAI LAMA

See I have no interest, I always avoid, to convert. The telling’s…even my many lectures in the West, I am usually telling them, it is better to follow one’s own traditional religion. Changing religion you see, sometimes creates some confusion. But then you see this area, when I give some teaching, traditionally, to this country, then I have no, sort of, no hesitation.

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REPORTER

Dharamshala has become the springboard from which the Dalai lama makes frequent international trips to campaign for this country. Wherever he goes he’s treated like a king, and the sight of it makes the Chinese fume. But its not always been like this, throughout most of his exiled life, the Dalai Lama and his people have been ignored internationally.

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ROBERT THURMAN

I blame the British, I blame the Americans, I blame all those who joined the Chinese, for the sake of business, in pretending the Tibetans never existed as a separate people. That’s genocide, mental genocide.

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REPORTER

The current Dalai Lama escaped from China in 1959, and the Indian government allowed him to build the first monastery in exile. He was followed by a number of further monasteries, duplicating those back home in Tibet. But they’re more than just a cultural curiosity. The monks of Dharamshala have succeeded in building a successful financial enterprise. From here they manufacture Tibetan medicines, which are in great demand around the world. And in the astrology department, they deal with horoscope requests.

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WOMAN IN SHOP

Besides the horoscope, we even prepare the calendar, the Tibetan calendar, every year we prepare, and besides the calendar then we have various amulets. Amulets for various purposes like for health, for prosperity, for good luck, anything for all purpose, amulets all sorts available.

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REPORTER

Tibetan religious leaders are chosen after they show signs of being able to mediate for the gods. Thupten is the most senior oracle, he was selected after he fainted, a clear sign of divine presence. He says it was like a lighting flash that struck him to the ground.

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THUPTEN NGODUP

I have a big duty, and then also once it was official I had to send a letter to the minister. One is that I take care of this monastery…and that I don’t have to do education special, I’m just normal monk… [Inaudible]

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REPORTER

Most powerful are the young reincarnates. Nechung Rinpoche has the body of a child of a long-dead Lama. He is one of the religion’s most senior figures.

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NECHUNG RINPOCHE (TRANSLATION)

Because I have been named as a Rinpoche, I am classed as a reincarnate. That gives me more responsibilities. I must work to benefit others.

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REPORTER

Here in the foothills oh my Himalayas, the youngsters of Dharamsalah enjoy a freedom they couldn’t know in their own country. The fear is that as time goes on, these Tibetans are forgetting that they have another home. And with Chinese power more firmly entrenched than ever, the likelihood is that they won’t be going back any time soon.

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REPORTER

Many of these children undertook horrific journeys to escape from China.

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SCHOOL OFFICIAL

Almost 60% of the children in this school are from Tibet, and almost everyone of them have faced the same problem coming to India. There are to either bribe the Chinese officials, by paying a huge amount, those who could afford. And those who cannot afford, they had to go, they had to trek mountains and valley in order to reach.

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SCHOOLGIRL

My uncle has brought me to India, with a very hardship way. He had sometimes put me in the midst of luggage. Before I come to India I don’t have the knowledge that my country has been invaded, and the importance of knowledge. I was absolutely innocent.

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SCHOOL OFFICIAL

The school started in 1960, and so, during these, um, almost 37 years, starting with just, ah, about 52 children. Now this school we have almost 2,500 children as present.

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NECHUNG RINPOCHE (TRANSLATION)

I would say to the world’s children, mainly, study, educate yourself. Through education you can help others, if you don’t study, it won’t be helpful for others, as well as for youself. Mainly, I’d like to say, please do good, that’s all.

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REPORTER

They won’t give up easily. A debating session for Tibetan monks. Perhaps a metaphor for their impossible battle for them to justify themselves against the world. Meanwhile the Chinese authorities do anything they can to suppress the ambitions of India’s Tibetan refugees

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DALAI LAMA

This is my…now increasing, so now they make more…more stronger and more fierce complain… …formally protest it. And also not only the government, but the institution whist invited me. There were some Chinese officials, I visited them… [Inaudible sections]

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The Tibetans are a people with every reason to pray. The Chinese have recently stepped up programs to move so many non-Tibetans, into their homeland, that they could soon become just another minority within their own country