Speaker 1:

The Pantanal in southern Brazil. Spread over 150,000 square kilometres, it's an extraordinary natural area. Home to some of the world's rarest flora and fauna. Hundreds of tributaries of the River Paraguay create a fluctuating river cycle which leaves much of the area under water at various stages of the year. The region's been left untouched for centuries. Man's presence here has always been sparse, a wealth of wildlife has had the rivers and the plains to itself. The waters are alive with caimans and otters. This wide bird is the tuiuiu, the Pantanal's symbol. The capybara, the largest of the rodent family.

Now, an industry's arrived that threatening to change the face of this region forever, ecotourism. Half a million visitors are expected here this year, the busiest so far. This is Barra Mansa ranch. Once, a cattle farm, it's become a hotel in response to the tourist boom. Now, people like June Musgrave and Alan Parker come here for their holidays, seeking peace and tranquillity. It's a far cry from the life in Sydney the lawyers have left behind.

Alan Parker:

I'd certainly recommend it, particularly if you're interested in bird life in particular, I think. Might even try some fishing when we get some time as well, [inaudible]. But, just being on the river itself, just physically is very beautiful, seeing an otter is quite fun. There's a lot to see.

Speaker 1:

Visitors like Alan and June are part of growing tide of tourists flooding to this part of Brazil. Now, environmentalists fear damage is being caused to the region's delicate ecosystem. Cattle farms that once filled this region are becoming eco hotels, offering river trips and fishing expeditions. For the families who work at Barra Mansa, the change is welcome. Leo Nelson has worked at the farm for five years. Men like him, who were brought up raising cattle, are now learning to entertain hotel guests. Cowboys are becoming tour guides, farmhands are serving food.

Leo Nelson:

Here, when it was a cattle farm, for example, I knew it then. I worked here when it was a cattle farm. There was six of us here then, today there are 12 of us. In other words, the number of people working here. We live a lot better than we used to before. To live off the revenue of cattle today is difficult, not tourism though. It's much more practical. It generates a lot more money for all of us who work at [inaudible].

Speaker 1:

200 kilometres away is the state capital, Campo Grande. It's a bustling metropolis, stranded far from any other major city. It once proudly boasted of being the capital of one of the country's biggest beef producing states. But, cheaper, more efficient farming in central Brazil hit hard, and farmers in the 1990s were left searching for an alternative livelihood.

The city houses a government, which is coming under increasing pressure from environmental campaigners to address the problems the growth in tourism has caused. For state governor, Jose Osirio Dos Santos, the issue is an important priority for the state and for the country.

Jose Dos Santos:

We have in our state, a forest police unit. Our aim is to transform this forest police unit into an environmental police unit. It would be similar to the Canadian equivalent. It would not only look to maintain public safety, but would also be taken inside the Pantanal, so that our environmental concerns would become the focus, the symbol, and the central concern of our government. It is a new project that has proven popular and is already being implemented.

Speaker 1:

[inaudible] is a non-governmental organisation set up to monitor the spread of tourism, ensuring that development is controlled. But, the shear size of the Pantanal means it's virtually impossible to check their guidelines are followed.

Speaker 5:

We want tourism here in the Pantanal as an economic option. As I've already said, it has its function here. However, we want this tourism to develop in such a manner that it brings benefits to the local community. We want it to help man in this region. We don't want it to become a factor in the expulsion of man as a result of this new activity that's arrived in the area. It's interesting and important that the plans of both the state and national governments don't forget to take into account the men from Pantanal and his culture. The culture and the people from the Pantanal have to be the main building blocks for the tourism, which is going to continue developing.

Speaker 1:

For many visitors, the attraction of the area is its fishing. Over 3000 tonnes of fish are taken from these rivers every year. Psychoanalyst, Fabio Herrmann, from Sao Paulo, is a regular visitor.

Fabio Herrmann:

Well, the beauty is the freedom to fish, walk, photograph, ride horses. The fishing isn't so much about the fish, it's about the tranquillity to be in a place where there aren't people surrounding you, where you don't have to fight for your space, you only have to fight the fish.

Speaker 1:

More than 260 types of fish are found here. This compares to 200 in all of Europe. But, numbers are fast depleting. If fishing is not monitored soon, many of these species will simply disappear. Another day comes to a close at Barra Mansa. Luis Dos Santos plays a cattle horn. A Pantanal cowboy, he's played the instrument since he was little boy. Taught by his father to control up to 2000 head of cattle with the instrument on the frequent cattle drives that were once such an important part of life here. Now, he uses it to entertain the visitors.

Luis Dos Santos:

I like listening to all these people speaking different languages, but I don't if they're swearing at me or being nice. I like their presence here, and the boss likes it too because it's how he pays our salaries, so yes, I really like it.

Speaker 1:

Environmental campaigners continue to press for more action to be taken. But, economic necessity leaves many in the region with little choice but to respond to the growing demands from the tourist sector. But, for this group relaxing by the fire, the debate over ecology is being waged in another world. As June and Alan sit listening to the music, bookings are already being taken for next year at Barra Mansa. At the moment, its owners limit the numbers who can stay here at any one time. The demand is putting them under increasing pressure. With tour companies faced with an ever increasing market in travellers seeking a holiday with a difference, the number of visitors to the Pantanal seem set to continue rising.