In Saddam's beautiful marble palaces, American soldiers relax and play basketball. But the second they step outside their compound, they become nervous and jittery. "Move out of my way motherfuckers," screams a soldier on traffic duty, waving a pistol. With no road safe, they patrol the streets in helicopters. But if less Americans are being killed, distrust still runs deep. "I want all foreigners out," states one man. There are signs insurgents are switching to softer targets, like Iraqi police, instead of ending their resistance. After the scandal of Abu Ghraib, the Americans want desperately to be liked again. So they hand out teddy bears to children and toss muffins from armed tanks. But nothing is likely to make Iraqis forget the humiliation of occupation.