By reforming a once derelict part of Istanbul, Mayor Nusret Bayraktar has shown a new face to Turkish Islam. In the conservative villages of its traditional heartland, women remain secondary citizens. A 17 year old bride submits to an arranged marriage and waits nervously as her menfolk revel with blonde dancers imported from the city. As young villagers migrate to the towns, Refah is developing its urban power base. In his artist's garret, Bedri Baykarn, arch Islamic opponent, advocates military intervention if Refah jeopardises Turkish democracy. In defending the constitution, Security forces often resort to torture and political murder. At a peaceful demonstration, police beat the protesters with battens, chasing them until they fall to the ground in panic. Only a village picnic shows how Turks, Islamic or secular, unite to celebrate a history of both modern and traditional values. As families sing and dance under the trees, Refah's success depends upon maintaining this delicate social balance. Interview with deputy Refah leader, Abdullah Gul.

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