Today, the human cargo are tourists, out to experience one of the world's best railway journeys. Surrounded by the mountain shadows, the railway cuts through amazing rocky inclines. The pass still looks like and indeed is a wild frontier, existing largely beyond the laws of Pakistan. When the train is not running, an army of smugglers can be seen marching down the track carrying TVs, stereos, drugs and guns to trade in Peshawar. The Khyber Pass Steam Safari rides under the protection of local militias, out to spot passing Pashtun tribesman and smugglers taking potshots at the train. The Pashtun who live here still live and die by their ancient code of honour. "They sacrifice their own lives for the sake of their friends. But when somebody betrays him -he is the best enemy. He will never forgive a person - he takes the revenge even after centuries," explains a local. Towards the end of the line, in the rocks a walk from the track, lie the ornate emblems of the British regiments who fought up here. The Khyber Rifles are still stationed in the Pass, although today they concern themselves with dancing for tourists. Beyond the guards of the Khyber Rifles lies Afghanistan, and the end of the line. A sumptious report offering spectacular scenery and rich history.

Produced by ABC Australia